Flower Patch by the Vibe-lens

I found a nice flower patch —– so, I took the pictures with the Lens Vibrating

Device for its first field test.   Yet there is the fundamental paradox, shake

the lens with vibrating motor to get painting like soft image but not as such 

to give too much blur, while flowers were blown by the wind and a holding 

hand shakes as well. —– So, some were successful but others were shaken 

too much still, as long as picture looks interesting, it’s OK.  🙂

(Lens used were, Modified Canon EFS Zoom 18~55mm IS-II,

Tamron Zoom 70~300mm, Canon 5D Mk-III)

With normal view, the flower looks like this.  🙂

Enjoyed ? —– or disturbed ?    Ha ha ha.  😀

[]

Vibe and Shift — (I mean together)

Isn’t this bokeh beautiful ? —– otherwise the photo looks just like

normal (photo left) —– What I gave to this photo was a shake.

(The lens was Tamron Zoom 70~300 mm)   As the vibrating motor

 was attached on the front filter ring, when it was vibrating, the 

focus ring was slipping off the prefocused position too.   Hence the

exposed photo gained a blur and an out-of-focus bokeh together.

(I think it looks like a softness of the Zeiss lens.  🙂 )

 While developing the device system

 which will give a good vibration 

 while shutter opened, I needed to

 tinker a lot on the electronic circuit.  

 As I don’t have any more Canon G9’s

battery, I resorted with Panasonic Lumix camera’s battery which has only 3.7 V

and its low Voltage gave me a lots of headache of instability.

Anyhow, I had to give numerous test click again and again while changing

the component etc etc = so, those photos were the by-product of the making.

The photos above here were created when the device was mounted on the

Canon EFS 18~55 zoom lens. = with funny halation, this photo looks like

an old anastigmat lens’.  🙂     Somewhat sweet isn’t it ?

 When photo was taken, while the lens 

 was vibrating, the hold of the camera 

 often shaken as well, creating just

 blurred image.

 (Never mind nobody is perfect.  🙂 )

 ( —– Such blurr could be utilized

 somewhere other photo session.  🙂 )

— When I finished the building work,

I’ll take the camera out for a field test.

(hopefully, before the Summer ended.  Ha ha ha  )

[]

Lens ID — EXIF or Selfy

On the previous post, in order to show the sample photo of each lens, 

I took a lots of sample photos. —– then, to compile and name them, 

I found a difficulties —not always I could tell the photo by which lens.   

The each file of the photo normally having EXIF data though, it needs 

to have the lens’ ID from the lens’ rom memory in other words, lens

got to be a dedicated type.  

Unfortunately, lots of my lens isn’t genuine or dedicated type, so that

there was no EXIF data (still, I have 10 genuine lenses from Canon

— other lenses I’m still using with converter, adapter may be 20 

 altogether ?)  therefore often I have to guess which lens it was.

 ( When EXIF said 0mm lens, 1/8 second and if ISO setting was 12800 

= it’s likely a pinhole ! —– On the end, I decided to take “Selfy” on 

a mirror or a photo of the lens itself to record which lens was used

to take its sample photo.

Incidentally this was the Wide-angle Double Density Pinhole. (clopped photo)

By  this, low-contrast, low-color-contrast test shot, some of them showed

that they were not suited for this kind of subject !

= still I got good chart to select each of them.

[]

Soft Image by Lens Vibration

After seeing the results of Somerset House shooting, I realized that the

“Focus-Shifting Technique” may not suite for that kind

of subject. —–> Then, I should try the 

Camera  Shake or Lens Vibration.

 There was a  good sample in my past

 experiment.    (Though, to replicate the

 same, perfect effect was not very easy.)

So that, in this time, in order to give a good shake to the camera, I devised a

vibrating element (small motor with ex-centric rotor) mounted on the lens. First, I tried it with Sigma Zoom 28~200mm while mounting the motor parallel

to the lens’ axis.(Photo above left)   But together with an effect of the gravity,

lens vibrated simple up and down.  Therefore, I changed to mount the motor 

perpendicular to the lens axis. (Photo center, Canon EFS 18~55 mm Zoom.  

And the Photo right, Tamron Zoom 70~300 mm)  

= As a result, the lens vibrates much more complexed way

= making a blur every direction.  — Still, there was much more decisive factor

here = the Sigma’s Zoom was quite hefty size and the weight, in comparison to

the almost weightless Canon EFS ZOOM 18~55mm which optical unit must be

lot easier to be shaken. —– (Position of the motor or its direction, such as on top

of the lens or 4:o’clock, 10:o’clock position and the camera’s direction etc are

also crucial)  It was the matter of the balance between the vibrating force and the

inertia of the optical unit or the camera body = hell lot of complicated dynamics.

On the end, a simple rule was, that if it wasn’t good, change the position of

the motor and try again. 🙂

This is the same flower as before, but here by the Lens Vibration on the

Tamron Zoom 70~300 mm at 130 mm . —– check the photo clicked and

enlarged to see its original sharp details and the added soft blur.  

Then to have a comparison with previous photo by the Focus Shift.

I know, I’m doing a very destructive aggressive approach to the photography,

somewhat akin to a musician smashing his own instrument though, I’m not

doing this for the sake of Conceptual Blah Blah but simply to create 

aesthetically nice soft image. —- It’s a paradox Sir.  

And, I’m having a fun— a lots.   😀  

( I need to go back to the Somerset House again and a field shooting to prove

that those exercises are not for wasting the time.   Ha ha ha. )  

[]

Focus Shift (C) at Somerset House

——- (this photo above was made accidentally = overlapped with wrong image.)

This was almost the first field test of the Focus-shift photography ( while driving

lens’ AF motor automatically) —– There were several attempt to do the same by

manually rotating the focus before.    But, manual operation creates too much

blur and the success rate was rather low. (So, this is a long standing project.)

Thanks to the lens I used, Canon EFS 18~55mm, I could use the lens from 24mm

to 55mm.   Though, the wider the lens, the image-size changes more, and creating

funny image. (= I’m not happy at all = to counter this problem, I did the Focus shift

together with adjusting the zoom ring to keep image position the same.) 

So that, unless I found the remedy, this technique is not matured enough.

And the subject this time was not suite for the technique. — it seems that

“Two Element Homemade Lens” does better job.  🙂

(—– on the point of creating painterly, impressionistic image.)  

[]

Zeiss Talon Lens

It was the same odds and ends box of the camera shop, City Camera Exchange

in the Strand, London, where I found Carl Zeiss projection lens for £2.

(in fact, together with some lens caps, hood etc = lens alone could be £1 ?  😀 ) 

I guess, this lens must be as old as 50 odd years, and the slide-projector

which takes this lens must be long gone and impossible to find even

coming through all the junk shops in London.

Therefore a chance for this lens to meet THE rightful user who got the

Zeiss projector and looking for the replacement lens is virtually nil,

hence it was sold £1. —- instead, the lens encounter the NOT-right at all

kind of user. (= And I guess, it was also a very rare occurrence to encounter   

a person who could utilize the lens like what I did.  😀 ) 

(Projector has a problem to find the specifically designed projection lamp

= therefore most of the owner has found an obsolete situation and gave-up.

—– in fact, I was asked several times to modify the projector to use the

common 2pin halogen bulb.)

Test the lens by mounting it on my Homemade Tilting Bellows, this lens

showed very reasonable (rather good) quality.    Lens seems to have three

lenses (Tesser type ?) and naturally no Iris (it’s mean full open F2.8 – 85mm

= very much like a 6×6 Spring Camera or Twin- lens Reflex Camera lens.)

Top photo showed general distance and the photo above left showed very

nice Bokeh on its close-up shot.    And the photo center was x1.5 close-up.

Photo right was the shot of tilted lens = Pan-focus and Shallow-focus effects.

= I should say, pretty good “Zeiss Lens” for £1 was too good to be true.   🙂

(But, this lens was too decent = out-of-focus Bokeh was very soft though,

no fancy spherical aberration to make fuzzy softness. — shame !)  🙂

[]

Focus Shift (B)

This is THE pretty girly picture.  But, you may not able to guess what sort 

of the lens I used. —– Well, this was done by the Sigma 28~200mm Zoom,

at 200mm F5.6 with Focus-Shift.

Here, the photo left was a normal shot and the right one was with focus-shift.

(Click and enlarge the photo to see the details = sharp details still there

together with out-of-focus bokeh.)

The photo left was the Canon EFS 18~55mm —– the red and white wires

were connected to its AF Motor.  And the center was the Sigma 18~200mm lens.  

Photo right , the Yellow arrow pointing its AF Motor, and its right on the photo, 

white gears is controlling the size of Iris. (Gear was driven by a stepping motor)

= but by rotating this gear with a finger, the Iris = F-aperture could be changed.

Though, it’s not easy to know what exact the value of  “F” then, since it’s fully 

open value changes from 3.8 at 28mm to 5.6 at 200mm, hard to know what is

somewhere between.  Just trust your camera’s auto exposure.  🙂  

Even with smaller F-aperture, out-of-focus Bokeh is always there.

= and this Bokeh is making the photo looks soft. Though, Bokeh mean

scattered light.  Hence, it reduces the contrast of the photo = may need 

to tinker it by making the photo darker and then brighten the highlight

to increase the contrast. — if it was necessary) 

—– Now I got box-full of broken / malfunctioned lenses = a lots of fun

is waiting to be discovered.  Ha ha ha  😀 

[]

Appropriation

The controller I made to create a Focus-shift effect for the photos was using

the battery case from the discarded Canon G9 camera together with its battery

= NB-2LH.

What I needed was much smaller battery though, other choices were the

battery for Lumix camera but they are 3.7v (it needs to be more than 5v)

otherwise AAx4 or AAAx4 type. —–> I settled to the Canon battery.

As the brand-name suggests, it was a well made battery system = easy

to use and could last for ever kind. (I mean the case, not the battery itself)  🙂

 Commonly used among the Canon cameras,

 the battery retaining latch was well designed 

 and made.

 —– think, if I had to design this kind myself,

 what would I make and need to work ?

= conclusion = if it IS already there, why not

use it straight.    It could save

all the hustle, still it cost nothing. 🙂 = This is called appropriation.

— this word gives pretty bad impression though, think about, is there

ANYthing we are NOT appropriating for our life.

= All the foods were happen to be there, not necessary to be eaten by us.

= We are just appropriating its edible character and its existence. (Only a food

we are not killing for us to eat IS the humble salt.)

—– Give a thought or two, have we human being ever contributed to a survival of

this planet and its life form ANY good ?

[]

Even an electrical component which was a human invention, still I didn’t make

= I’m just using it.  Isn’t this, an appropriation of its character and the function ?

There are two types of the semi-conductors, one would open the gate and allow

the electric current to flow when positive signal was given, other type does open

the gate when negative signal was applied. (they were called NPN or PNP type or

N-channel or P-channel type etc) = We are just utilizing the appropriate type of

component to configure the circuit.

What we call “Landscape photography” is in fact, an appropriation of the natural

(though, sometime man-made) scenery to copy — there is very little opportunity 

to create the image out of nothing. —– You may not guessed 

what I would write here —– this network of appropriation is indeed, what

Lord Buddha pointed out “the Karma” = nothing could exists by its own.

___/\___

[]

Focus Shift (A)

Focus shift is a kind of the holy grail to me in the soft image photography

together with the camera vibration.   Since the images of both techniques

were affected by the three dimension or the depth of the subject, it wouldn’t

be replicated by a digital graphical manipulation or a soft filter.

(effect of filter appears everywhere flat, same as a graphical effect —

otherwise it needs to give days of manipulation, pixel by pixel.)

So that, I’ve been working for this quite a while, hence such as the lens

 in the photo appeared here long ago. (Lens was Canon FD 50mm F1.8)

A device I made was not so complicated electronic controller which takes

the signal of the shutter-open from the Flash-hot-shoe then to start the   

AF motor in the lens, hence focus-shift (from the pre-focused point.)

= in the effect, the resulting image has both focused sharp image and

 an off-focused, fuzzy halo around.   The beauty of this technique is,  

it is not rely on the lens’ aberration but the out of focus Bokeh, therefore 

it can be done with any focal length. (as long as I got such modified lens) 

(For another lens = “softness made by the vibration of the lens” = which

can be done with ANY = non modified lens, would become ideal.)

(Click and see enlarged photo — the sharp detail is still there. )

(The field report would be coming soon.)  🙂 

[]

Magnifier glass on test

A guy who’ve read my blog about the experiment on the fuzzy junk lenses,

teased me “Why not those reading glasses ?” —– Indeed, why not test.

So that a Magnifier / Reading Glass was stucked on a bellows and tested.

(This lens has about 135 mm focal length.)

— as it is (Fully open), or with improvised Iris. (Photo above Center)

—– and later, I tested Flat-lens (Plastic Fresnel Lens) as well.(Photo Right)

Photo above Left = magnifier fully open.  

And the Center = With Iris (about F11) — halation was reduced though, utterly

poor image quality.  

On the photo Right = (part enlarged center), as the flair / halation was removed, 

the chromatic aberration (=red and blue on the edge) clearly prevailed.

And this is the image made by a plastic fresnel lens. (Looks like an image

of a Pin-hole camera, made by a 0.7 mm big pin-hole. )

(Don’t get me wrong, I’m not a fan of this kind of crap image.

But I still say, crap image is still an impressionistic photo image. 🙂 )

(And the photos above are the reference = taken by the Canon EF 70~200 mm

F2.8 at 135mm setting on F8)

In addition, this photo was by the 50 years old Pentax 135mm F3.5 Lens 

on F8.  (Not too bad from the £10 secondhand lens with fungi.)

We may need to know what is the descent standard — at least.  😀

Crap image is not same to the soft image I’m after

(= soft image still need to have its sharp core in the center.)

[]