Ship in a Dock / Stubnitz

I went a Ship moored in the King George V Dock with my friends.

In fact, to see (and hear  🙂 ) a gig performed by German Jazz, and Punk Rock band.

I went there with my Canon 5D Mk2 with only 8-15 Fisheye Zoom since

the other lens is a bit too big and heavy  😀

(Though, some of the picture, the auto-focus was failed)

And some of the photos were taken using LED Ring Light)

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Snap shot in Greenwich

Greenwich is a pretty small town even in an area having rather rough industrial and

naval history behind.  May be because of the reflection of the psyche of sea going people.

Unlike earth bound Army people, Naval people who knew the different world and the

navigational science had much open mind hence less bound to the old tradition.

With this reason, other than the Royal Naval College and the Royal Observatory,

the town itself doesn’t looks like an old town. = pretty smart and  posh place where no

bad tasted humberger shop in sight, despite of the millions of visiting tourists.  😀

Those dogs are  Siberian Husky, said to be a half Wolf though, it seems very well tamed 

gentle dog.  —– And to see two of them in one day in the same place was very unusual.

Seemingly, the Greenwich is having quite number of Russian population.

(Probably rich Origark.  😀 )

May be because of our far far ancestors came from the sea, we are attracted to a water,

and like to keep watching the waves.  Its mesmerizing movement is quite therapeutic.

(Its endless repeating movement vacates the brain = same as a Buddhist’s Mushin ! )

Reflection of the Cutty Sark.  One of the last Tea Clipper Cutty Sark must be the  Icon of

the British Empire.  Unless otherwise, Brits wouldn’t be bothered to restore the burnt

down ship spending hundred of million pounds.

I like this ground design.  Just a half inch deep water filling the striped shallow trench

which is giving the opportunities to the small and the grownups alike to play  🙂

Good old Telephone-box is a star these days. = though, the telephone machine itself is

not old = far from it, it is a broadband connected internet machine  🙂

And, the hottest day (so far in this year) is going to have a peaceful Sunset. 

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HUMAN CIRCUS (of Piccadilly, LONDON)

— ( To take this picture, I’ve jumped onto tarmac, click, jump-back before hit by them —– focus was

—- wrong, and having camera shake as well. Never mind, you can see the atmosphere  😀 ) )

To pick-up a Japanese visitor, I went to the Piccadilly Circus. —– like a tourist. 😀

I don’t remember when I did the same, how many years ago ? ? ?

As it is the most famous place in England, and the Olympic is coming too, there are lots of tourists

and they are enjoying a rare opportunity to have a sun. (UK having too much rain in this year =

Japan, China had too = seemingly the Global freak weather.)

—– nearly 40 years ago I was one of them.   But not as noisy as them today.   😀

I don’t think those photos needs any explanation. = So, I leave them without it.  😀

M m m m  😀

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Thought over LIGHT (and its visual effects)

You may feel strange though, there is no black and White

image in the Nature.  🙂

May be Monochrome image yes. = Pure B/W image is, in fact human

invention, in other words, it exists only in the brain, or a product of

the brain. = Simply because, there is no [no-colored light] exists =

all the light, even if it looks WHITE, it is just well balanced

mixture of the colors.

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So-called Color was created by the vibration of the Photon =

if you divide the distance of a Photon travels in a second in its

literally the speed of Light, by its number of frequency of the vibration = you get the wave-length.

The light-sensitive cells in our Retina called Corn cells (named from its shape) having the colored

pigment which selectively absorbe and stimulated by the particular wave-length, emits the nerve-

signal to the brain. = Hence the brain interpret those different signal created by each different light

as each different color. —– So that, when those Corn cells sending-out all the color signal evenly =

our brain think it is white and if they are less intensive than the white, the brain think it is gray.

But when the light level is very low = in the dark, the Corn cells couldn’t work well.  Instead, only

the Rod cells which doesn’t have color sensitivity, works. = hence, the visual image which lack the

color information were created in the brain = we feel (some what) B/W image. —– ghostly night

scene of grave-yard was conceived like a bluish B/W image = simply because, only the available

light source came from the stars (provided no Cine-light, or Torch-lamp there) = hence,

the Dracula film is the best in B/W = (it is closer to what actually we have seen) 😀

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As long as there is lots of light which is having all the spectrum of the light, we see

white as white and able to see a colored objects as its own color without color-shift.

Therefore, mirrors in the dressing room of a theater back-stage having many light valves fitted

around. = natural Ring light effect. = no shadow and no color-shift = it is essential for the make-up.

(still, even a white under tungsten-light is shifted to much warmer color of about 3000k)

—– yet still, it is often the case, the white is determined by its relative brightness.

Our eyes were adjusted to see the over all brightness or by the brightest object while varying the

size of the pupil.  And among the objects, see the brightest and relatively having all the spectrum

of the light as the white. = Hence, seemingly the yellow sun is so bright, we feel it is white in the sky.

In fact, all the photographers know, even a dark colored object will become

washed off white if it was over-exposed 5~7 stops more.

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In the natural environment, we are not necessary seeing the surroundings with ideal neutral light.

= not only the color-contribution of the light-source (such as Florescent light has Green cast due

to the Mercury atom) , but also the light was colored by the reflection of other object nearby.

—– May be it is the reason why we feel nicely lit image in a photo = too artificial.

While using color-corrected artificial light (Xenon discharge Solar-Light kind) or Studio-type flash

light, which is giving 5500K color temperature.   The more photographer worked to make every

corner in the scene within 2 stops of exposure difference, it become even more unnatural.

[]

=== So that, in this occasion, as I’m dealing with LED Ring Light, I’m experimenting

“How to design Non-ideal light source to create natural looking image”

= to make Colored Ring Light. 😀

(I’m going to show its result soon)

[]

PS :  If you’d like to experiment with LEDs, and try to connect different type of them parallel,

you need to connect a register to each types.   Such as; 

[3~4 Batteries (4.5V~6V) +] —> [100 ohm Register]—> [Blue or White LEDs]—>[Battery – ]

[ ———————– same  +] —> [100 ohm Register] —> [Red LEDs] —–> [same Battery – ]

[ ———————– same +] —> [100 ohm Register] —> [Green LEDs] —> [same Battery – ]

( Those Registers are to limit the current to the LEDs = may need change to such as 47 ohm =

If you connect 10 LEDs parallel, which needs 30mA, x10 of them mean, you need 300mA)

(Exact value is [Supply Voltage – Forward Voltage of LED / Resistance = Current  —– where,

Forward Voltage of Blue or White LED is 3.5V,  Red is 2V, Green or Amber are 2.5V ===

6 – 3.5 / 10o = 0.025 = 25mA  ——- As long as the Current is 50~20mA each, it would be OK)

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Make LED Ring Light (2)

While staying in my place to do some MAKE activity, still I couldn’t be house bound.

I needed to have an eye-test to make eye-glasses. (They said, it takes full one week to make it

—- Joking ! ) and I had to take my smashed camera to Canon = it was a long journey 😀

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So, I’ve been making yet another LED Ring light. This one is for 24-70mm F2.8 Lens.

I’ve shown those photos before.  A fish-tin which got right diameter has been cut and its bottom

has been cut to take 77mm filter screw (by which, it would be fixed on front of the lens.)

A Chinese room ornament which got color-changing LED light has been chosen to

make this Ring light’s outer housing. —> So, it was cut to fit fish-tin inside.

And two were Epoxy glued together. (photo middle)

And a Phenol Plastic board with copper-foil has been cut to fit inside of the housing —>

then the LEDs will be mounted to this ring. (photo right) === all those cuttings were done by

a half-round file = primitive and simple work though, it was a typical  Zen practice =

make the hand almost like a machine = no-mind (Mushin) = tool’s movement exactly match the

character / hardness of the material = Hand, Tool, Material are all in one rule = Ichijo (oneness).

To fix the Ring light on front of the Lens, instead of using its Lens-hood fixing bayonet (such as

I did on the previous Ring light for 100mm Macro Lens) was because of this lens front extends

when the Zoom was set to wide-angle (photo middle) = If the Ring light was fixed on the bayonet,

when it was zoomed to wide angle, the extended lens front would block the light in the middle.

—– And this (photo right) is the (almost) finished product.

Almost mean, I’m thinking to put power or intensity control etc.

[]

This LED Ring light draw 700mA current from 4xAA, N-MH Rechargeable battery

(fully charged 2500mAH battery would last more than 3 hours) through 2.2 ohm register.

= It’s mean, this Ring light has nearly 3W power = With ISO 400, and 3m distance,

the exposure would be F4 and 1/15^th Second (for average subjects).

—– not too bad for a product which cost only few pounds. (without the cost of LEDs which I got

free from another equipment —– I think 30 or so LEDs wouldn’t cost more than £10 to buy).

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Through those “Make LED Light” posts, you might be realized,

how easy to make something and it would cost so little.

On top of it, you might be amazed, how anything could be utilized from fish-tin to card-board paper.

= Just remove an idiosyncratic idea and open your eyes = anything can be done by your

hand and to be creative. (Though, never expect to succeed in the first attempt = to fail first is our

nature, still we have to start from there)  😀

Be courageous. —– And Just Do It.   It would be a fun = I’ll guaranty you.

(Zen is not requisite element to make a thing.  Though, while making it, you may learn it.  🙂 )

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Make LED Ring Light

While hiding in my cave (:-D ) I found the time to do building work (Since, as

I don’t have a habit to watch TV (I don’t have a TV 

nor able for streaming video signal on USB dongle 

connection) or DVD,I have to DO something 😀 ).

From other project where I changed White LED to 

Color LED I got mountain of White LED, I decided

to make LED Ring Light which can utilize

those LEDs in number.

Ring Light can create (almost) shadowless  

image, or having faint shadow surrounding the  

subjects, some says, it is the Holy Grail in the Lighting effect. 🙂

[]

Funny situation these days is, we can get the LEDs from the products,  

such as an LED Work Light from Lidl which is using 40, 60 LEDs inside,

as cheap as £15 = much much cheaper than to buy LED itself from an

electronic supplier = hence disassemble and use them to make such as

a Ring Light can save a cost a lot. (advantage is, that the LEDs has been

selected and tested already by the maker and the Lidl, hence there is little

chance to get old type dead-stock from unknown supplier in the Net  🙂 )

[]

Basically, all about LED Ring Light is “How to mount a ring around the

lens front” — other than this, everything else are straight forward =

just put a lots of LEDs and connect it to the battery.

—– Sound easy though, the trouble is, not like in a good old days when

most of the lenses from one camera maker has only one or few filter sizes

(such as for Pentax = 49mm, Nikon = 52mm, Canon = 58mm etc), but

now as the role of filter is diminishing (now most of the visual effects were

created by Photoshop), lens doesn’t need to have the same filter size =

in the other words, to make a ring light capable to be used on many lenses

is nothing but a headache. 🙂

To make the situation even worse is, the use of Zoom lens is the norm now

and as the lens starts from wide-angle, it is necessary to make ring light NOT

vignettes (not cut off the corner of the image by the additional protruded edge)

= it got to be much larger than a front element of the lens.

On the other hand, some lenses especially on the smaller camera is getting

even smaller and many of them has even no filter thread on the front at all.

= it mean, the ring light got to be designed and made for the individual purpose

and the choice of lens. —– (hence, better to do DIY 🙂 )

[]

I decided to make one for my 100mm macro and other for 24mm~70mm Zoom.

So that the first sample here is to make it for my Canon 100mm F2.8 Macro (not 

the latest L type — it came to the market only two months later, but this one is

pretty sharp as well, and I like its smaller front lens which would cast less shadow

when we close to the subject and easier to give a lighting.

(in extreme close-up, large front lens allows only side-lighting. 

And I don’t see much of help from the so-called Image-stabilizer = if it helps two

or three stops, why not just set higher ISO speed.  And having very delicate lens

shifting mechanism which is suspending the lens element in the air by the

magnetic coils or ceramic motors, it would make the lens even more sensitive to

the shock.  🙂 )

[A ring to mount the LEDs can be made from a Phenol plastic board with copper

track for electronic circuit, to even just a card-board paper (if it is just for an

experiments, 1 mm thick card-board paper would be good enough) or to mount

the LED from the the back (through a hole) = Art-mounting-board is a good choice.

(Still, precisely drilling 30, 40 holes, this work needs to have a good Zen mind.)  😀

Which ever the material, you need to find the diameter of the ring and cut the

material.  ( I think the photos here are self-explanatory. )

Use caliper to find the diameter under the bayonet to mount lens hood. 

If no caliper in hand, use right-angled paper.

Then draw the circles of its mounting diameter.  I’m using a sharpened needle

mounted on the compass to cut the paper as well.  And cut the Phenol plastic

board, I’ve clumped a cutting blade on the compass.

A paper ring cutted with diameter of the lens  and outer diameter was placed

under the bayonet and the shape of it was taken.   (To place this paper ring /

template, under the lens bayonet, the ring needs to cut on one place to open)

Then the shape of the ring and the bayonet craw was copied on the card-board paper. 

( On the card board paper, two additional circles has to be drawn, + 6 mm larger

than inside diameter and  + 8.5 mm ) — To plot the position to put LED, divide 

+ 8.5 mm circle to 8.  Then, within a semi-circle of 1/8, find equidistant point to

put LEDs — In my case every 11 mm and the holes to insert LEDs are pierced

(Photo above middle)  If you put too few LED you will have ugly multiple shadow,

or if you put too many, the battery will run-out rather soon.  It is a compromise.

(sort of the standard is, put the LED at every 8~12 mm distance )

In this design, I’m connecting all the

LEDs in parallel, and you can see

the different way to connecting them.

Left Top = if the LED came from

another device and having already

trimmed leg, you have to make sure

to insert all of them keeping the same 

direction (inside of LED you will see

narrower pin (+) and the broader pin (-),

you have to insert LED all in the same orientation, say (+) = outside of the ring.

And connect them using a wire such as from telephone cable (better polish it 

before soldering) by running it inside and outside of the LED leg alternative way.

Then you will have two wire ring on the board.

Photo Middle = If you got newly bought LEDs (assuming all of them are having 

the same color and the brightness — some are more blueish 🙂 = the cheaper you

pay, you will have headache — To insert LED’s to the board keep longer leg (+)

outside, then you just bend each leg to touch next LED and cut excess, then

solder each leg next by next = you will get two wire ring on the board.

Photo bottom = If you don’t have soldering facility yourself, and no one to ask, 

don’t worry still you can do !  = Insert all the LED to the board (such as photo

above) always keeping longer leg outside, then bend the leg towards the next

LED and twist the leg wire to next one. Then bend next one’s leg to third LED’s

leg and so on (connect last one’s leg to the first one, need to insert the leg-wire

to the gap between the board. = you needs to have a bit of work.

Use a narrow-headed pliers or tweezers would be a good help.

When you got the board, with all the LEDs were connected together, then

connect the power wire to each wire ring —> and connect to the 4xAA battery

through 2.2~10 ohm 1W register. (this is the MUST ) = If LEDs weren’t light up,

connect the battery other way round. (Change polarity )   2.2 ohm register will

give you brighter light but shorten the battery life = 20~30 LEDs will drain the

power nearly 1 A from 4xAA battery it would last less than 1 hour, but with

10 ohm, it would not be as bright though, in an intermittent use, your battery will

last much longer = it’s depend on how you are going to use it. (Put a switch to

select High and Low would be an good idea).

( The register may get hot though it is normal = pay attention to the layout and

the design for this heat problem.)

(For serious video shooting, use 2.2 ohm and 4xD battery, and make others envy.)

If only a part of the ring was lighten up, it is the point where your connection was

loose = check the connection and tighten it up. If one or two LEDs were not

lighten up, it’s mean that LED was dead and needs to replace (it’s an awkward job

= it’s better to check all the LED before hand ).

Then, fix the power cable to the ring, tie it with strong thread like the photo above

right, or use heat-gun glue.  (I’ve covered the end of the cable with heat-shrink

tube for better protection)

When everything went well, end result should looks like this.

= Voila, LED Ring Light !

(In fact, I’ve used paper one for a template to make it on a Phenol plastic

circuit board.) —– Further to this, such as where to keep or mount a

battery case is largely depend on you.

And I’ll show you my final product in the coming post.

][

Carl Zeiss 85mm F1.4 lens — and Maneki-Neko

On the face, photo here is a Japanese Kitsch, so-called Maneki-Neko / 招き猫

(of its rather small mascots) I found in a Japanese restaurant’s window.

For some people, me to branding Maneki-Neko as a Kitsch might be unfair as they are so popular

= almost like the nation’s most beloved icon.

So far I couldn’t find its origin —– probably once there was a cat sat on front of a shop moving

a hand as if he (she ?) is inviting the people = and he attracted a lots of customer,

hence the shop’s business flourished. —– And this story spread and has become a legend. 

(This might be an equivalent of Garden Gnome in this country, especially its Kitsch appearance :-D)

This is a photo just next of Maneki-Neko above = despite it looks very rustic, they are still same

Maneki-Neko, some may say more artistic though.

( Incidentally, a dog-like figure behind is probably a figure of Tosa Champion Dog = a thick rope

on the neck symbolizing that he was the Yoko-zuna / 横綱 (of Sumo wrestling rank = Sumo was

once a part of Shinto festival, hence the thick rope is common with a rope hanged on a Shinto Shrine

Gate / 鳥居) of a Dog fight competition. = may be the owner of the restaurant had him before and

the figure was it’s commemoration to became Yoko-zuna )

[]

Though, what those figures were about, was not a point of those photos.

The matter was a test of a depth of the focus of 85mm F1.4 lens made by Carl Zeiss

= once a must have lens for a professional portrait photographer, because of its high quality to

capture beautiful skin-tone and smooth softness of the out of focus Bokeh. —– the top photo was

in its F1.4 hence showed very shallow depth of focus, and the second one was set to F2.8.

( This lens convinced me to change my camera system from Nikon to Contax in the 80^s. 🙂 )

[]

Just for a curiosity, I tested this lens at the life-size close-up with 85mm extension ring.

( In general, if we extend the lens same as its focal length, it would produce life-size image —–

though, some exception)

This Carl Zeiss 85mm lens has shortest shooting distance 1m, not 0.85m therefore, it imply,

the lens was not designed (= aberration was not well corrected) for shorter than 1m.

The photo here which was taken at F1.4 showed its life-size close-up image.

( This is yet another experiment to see “How shallow the focus can be”).

—– In the photo, the focused image is pretty sharp though, the out of focus image showed

quite visible Chromatic Aberration. = right photo, the saturation was exaggerated to show

separate red and green images. (To see it, please click and enlarge the photo)

= it was utterly out of what this lens was designed.

To design large F- aperture of 1.4 was hard enough and never considered a situation

under such extreme close-up. 🙂

(In comparison to Primary lens, Zoom lens can adjust the position of each lens element, hence it is

easier to compensate the aberrations, many Zoom lens has very extreme yet sharp Macro setting

though, as the lenses were suspended by tiny 3 pins in the curved channel, one drop would destroy)

Everybody knows that a prism can make rainbow color

= when the light pass through an angled grass, the light

would be bent according to its color (wave-length of the

light) hence each color is separated = resulting a rainbow.

A lens is a kind of prism of which the angle of

the grass surface is gradually changing. = naturally, never all the color light comes

to the same focal-point = this is called Chromatic Aberration.

So that, lens designer compensate this effect by using different kind of lens element

within one photographic lens though, aberration also changes depend on the

distance of the object, it is impossible to be perfect. (Even for the Carl Zeiss  🙂 )

—– still, it was an interesting test for me = I never encounter the out-of-focus Bokeh image

in such clear red and green. (Again, please enlarge the photo to see it )

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LED Lighting in Photography

In most of the case and for most of the people, Photography starts when the subject

was found to be there. = Has found mean [It was seen] = it’s mean [There was a light]

= if it was in a total darkness, we couldn’t see = we don’t notice its existence,

hence no photography.

Though, more of the often, photographer need to take picture because the subject was still

known to be there = it could be a nocturnal animal or cave paintings —– when I needed to take

picture of French wine cellars, it was a challenge. = It has to be clearly visible in the photo, yet to be

seen as a deep dark cellar = what a contradiction especially all the bottles were covered

with black fluffy fungi. 😀

[]

Modern Hi-Tech Camera seemed to be able to see better than our eyes though, it’s light measuring

capability is still only down to EV-o or -1 or so but  Auto Focus doesn’t necessary work under such

dim light. (Hence, Focus-assist-light in the Flash-light or so-called Active Focus System using

projected LED light).

But when the photography has gone outside of “expected scenario” of the use of camera, such as

[Pinhole photo] or use another lens for higher close-up magnification, lords of troubles comes in.

Equivalent F-aperture of Pinhole = F-125 (think, keep stopping-down F-22 to 32, 45, 64, 90

then to 125) or F-250 is far beyond of what camera can handle.—– Or, use a lens in reverse to

have x5 magnification, the image become too dark to see in the view finder

= additional strong light become necessary.

[]

Thanks to the easiness to use LED, which doesn’t heat-up the subject like as Halogen-light does,

I’ve been using them as a focus-light or even to take picture. = Use one or some LED to make a

focus-light is very easy such as seen in the another post [Tiny Life] (link here) —– it is just a

matter to connect LED to a power, normally to the battery(s), normally series with

small register. (I’m going to write about those “Technical” details in the next post) but an

easiest way is to utilize ordinary LED Torch-Lamp or even a USB Keyboard light which you can

find in a Pound-shop.  🙂

[]

Here some sample demonstration (of simple adaptation or simple “mod” work 😀 )

This is a little adaptation of a 1W LED Torch-Lamp (This one need only 2xAA battery !

= I’ll talk about a significance of 2xAA battery in the next post) —– in order to mount the lamp

to a stand, a piece of C-channel was drilled and 1/4” screw was tapped.

Use it as a spot light or diffused light etc is just up to your imagination.

And this is a way to use USB light.  = USB sockets were fixed and soldered to a piece of

circuit-board and they were connected to an 4xAA battery holder which acts as a stand as well.

One light has only one LED hence used as a spot-light and other has line of 5 LEDs hence covering

it with tissue-paper, it can be used as a diffused-light.

—– USB light was designed to be used on USB socket though, as long as it was

connected to 5V it will light up. (4×1.5V battery may give, up to 6V on the beginning though,

it wouldn’t destroy the LED, and even if you connected wrong polarity, it wouldn’t destroy them

neither, simply it wouldn’t light up = connect other-way round to make it light)

USB connector has 4 pins, of which both outside pins are carrying 5V supply.  You may find which

is + with multiple-tester though,  in this LED light case, JUST Connect = if it’s light = It’s right. 😀

Female USB socket can be taken out from Multiple USB Port which you can buy from £1 shop

= it’s much cheaper than to buy socket itself.  😀

If you don’t have soldering-iron and such skill, just smash open the USB plug = you

may find 2 wires in the spiral tube = fix the spiral tube with wire or what-so-ever the

manner and connect each wire to the battery + and – = if it doesn’t light-up,

change polarity.

(If you want to place the USB light on the camera, best way is to use camera bracket and fix the

spiral tube to the bracket and the cables can be extended to the battery holder.

(1m, 2m of wire wouldn’t make noticeable change of the brightness of LED)

[]

If you are interested in = just try.

You may realized how easy it is, and fun to experiment with mini photo-studio !

[]

Poppy = Impressionist’s photography / W-Pinhole Photo

As it is in the season, I’m seeing number of interesting photos of the Poppy in the Net.

One Photo-blogger Lemony showed her Poppy photo (link here) taken while intentionally

shaking the camera and created blurred image which I dubbed “Impressionist’s Photography”

and I promised her I’ll show my “Impressionist’s Photo” —– hence, here they are.

Isn’t this Impressionist, is this ?    Ha ha ha,    🙂

Those photos were taken by the Pinhole camera (Canon 5D Mk2)  but in this time it was by

two Pinholes of which the panel was fitted on front of the extension ring, therefore the

effective focal length was 84 mm.

With Two Pinholes, it produces off-positioned two images = similar to double exposure image,

or there used be a Double Image filter which used shallow prism = but such image can be made

by Photoshop much easily now. —– Still, I like those images, if the paintings of Impressionists

are still the painting, a photo of pinhole is still the photograph. (Why not ? )   😀

(What so ever, the best of all, two pinholes can make twice as many flowers instant.  😀  )

This photo was taken from the same position, but the Light Balance was set to Tungsten Light,

hence the color balance has shifted to blue. — (then,  contrast was increased and cropped)

= the image became even more like an Impressionist’s or an abstract painting.

This is an ordinary straight shot = as for a reference image. (Lens was Canon 70-200 F2.8 = set to

about 85 mm, and set to F4. —– ( This image looks like a Japanese Yamato-e Paintings.)

With the light balance set to Tungsten Light, it made the pale colored image more like a

Chinese panel painting.

Then, the same Poppies’ were taken by W-Pinhole. (not only the effect of the Pinhole, but

the wind shaken the flowers and made the image even more impressionistic  😀  )

(Under the wind, no flower stand still for 10 seconds, especially delicate Poppies )

[]

It seemed like the same situation, when people was bored by the too clean digital sound, they

started to go back Veiner or even Valve sound = when too clear sharp photo became too

ubiquitous, and easy to achieve, some went back to  B/W  Film Photography, some are even

trying to make their own print paper applying photo sensitive emulsion onto own material to

create textured fuzzy image (strangely, often fuzzy image seemed to have more connotations)

= there could be hundreds of the way to do photography.   (—– not only Pinhole   😀  )

This is the 84 mm W-Pinhole “lens” (?  😀 ) I’ve used.   Panel was a thin aluminum of a beer can

mounted on front of an extension ring.    Photo right is, with its “lens”  hood ! —– without lens,

it’s still need to have a Hood = you believe or not.  (Normally, a lens hood is to prevent a direct

sun hitting the lens = eliminates a ghost and halo.   Yet,  Pinhole without lens still needs to reduce

the light from the sky etc, which creates halo by scattering inside with diffraction. = Most of 

Pinhole Photographer doesn’t know this, as they think,  even the unnecessary halo is still the

character of the Pinhole photo  🙂  )  = Here,  seeing is believing.

Photo left is without Hood and the right, with hood = the difference is clear.    🙂

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Film Premier Show in Secret

A big film was shown as its Premier.   And it was performed in its iconic set-up.

So that, it is hard to say is this a film event or an art event ?  —- what so ever  it’s

an event to have very interesting, fun-full evening.  😀

————————————– (photo = simulation of the space craft landing)

As I’ve been asked to give technical advices and to assist with my electronical expertise,

and to show my art piece — strangely,  I was restricted by their Confidentiality Clause, hence

I can’t disclose the name of the film. (They says, Don’t tell to others until the event finished ! )

—– still you can get the ticket  from their web-site which I can’t  give its name neither  😀

Secrecy seems to be their secret of the success,  hence thousands of the guests are keep coming.

(Contradictorily,  they hand-out a printed program with excerpt from the Guardian News paper)

Now, month long show was ended, we are free to disclose the details and I can put more photos.

The Film was [Prometheuse] and the show was organised by [Secret Cinema] (link here).

The event was held in a secret location, still it is a conspicuous most event full event

= suddenly somebody got mad and the securities had to strain him ( according to the story

of the film = lots of happening etc. etc = to make a fun and unexpected experiences)  🙂

Go into a certain area, participants were given protective garment and taken to

the dark under world.  (This photo is for a lady who wanted to have it to copy and save  🙂 )

Then, discover such as an impressive installation of projected water vortex (video image was

created by  Doug Foster ), reflected on the water in a dark space, accompanied by the good sound

effects.  = Atmosphere is mesmerizing !   It was designed by my friend Francesco Pastori.  

(I’ve worked with Francesco in many projects together).

In the dark, luminous lines glow,  and with a head-light of a guide, you may find the confusing

multiple reflections. (Created by  Das Patterson)

Luminous tape in the dark was photographed, while camera was hand-held 5 second !

Or, go through spooky passages to discover yet more strange installations, inspired by the

concept of the film.  (Some are gone a bit too far from the story though, it’s not a problem  😉 )

Sound interactive LED lighting.

Or, Hydroponic agriculture system supposed provide the vegetables on the long voyage   😉

( Around here, Science lab’, Museum etc was produced and directed by Luke Harcourt )

And this is my Life Bottle, —– the Tissue culture to grow the life.  😀

(It is in the Science Lab —– don’t miss it, if you visit there  😀 )

When you are tired, the bay for an Hyper-Sleep was provided though, I haven’t tested whether

the sleep was automatically induced or not.  (or you can play Basket Ball instead )  🙂

To have a drink or two, many Bar or Restaurants are there.

A restaurant with live Piano (sound nice), or hundreds of real Lily flowers with its real smell  😉

Some Restaurants looks rather posh —– the guests may need to buy VIP tickets — ?

( As a poor Zennist, I have no idea how much the cost of VIP tickets are.  😀  )

Suddenly all the participants were assembled in a big room and the instruction was given.

The characters from the film were waking around etc. etc —– .  🙂

Then the clouds were lead to the another space to see the film in 3D !

( Though, as I said above, I can’t give the details of the  film = it was an impressive film   😀 )

( Now you know the Film though, it too late to go) 😉

It is amazing to see the good grown-ups having such unusual funs and enjoy the good time !

( To join them, you have to find more Info’ by yourself —- Guardian may have wrote about )

The event continues month long  = it’s mean I have to go-up there, time to time to change

the water in my bottle  😀 —– (By the way, I’m not payed ) = It was just for a FUN !

To have my own fun, I didn’t need to pay for them neither ! = it’s a secret to have a  smooth

uncomplicated life = Just respond to the situation without too much thinking or greed = this

is the way of the Zen Life, in its full of action.  🙂

When you live, there is no need to have an excuse or any justification = Just live as you have

happened to be in this world.   You didn’t chose. Still, you need to follow ! — What happened

was the situation given = You only got to do what you can do in your best = Hence no regret.  🙂

Cheers.

PS :  To the artists who’s work has been photographed here, can copy and use it free, if the one wish to do so.

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