Hot, Hot — Do something !

After the Summer solstice, the room temperature climbing up and up.

—– I think I wrote a story before, a comparison of two different approach to

deal with a summer heat in Buddhism. = The one said

 “Sinto wo mekkyaku sureba, Hi mo mata suzushi”

(When you negate the mind and the thinking, even a fire could be felt cool)

And the other “Atsusa no natsu wa ase wo kaki, fuyu wa chizimi-agaru”

(Get sweat under the summer heat, and shiver in the winter)

—– The former was a typical attitude in the Hinayana Buddhism and the

later was the Mahayana Buddhism.

I think, the both are correct —– for them.  Please carry on.

= It’s not my business to argue with them as they are not on front of me.

—– I’m facing the heat in my room. —– Of course, I can escape and go out 

though, my PC is here and I have to do something on the Net. = The trouble is,

since I’m using an Internet Dongle to connect, the Dongle get hot.    And as the

room temperature nearing to 30 degree, the Net-connection is getting slower

and stated to say “Connection timed out” “This page is not available”. 😦

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In most of the case, trouble or malfunction in the electronic devices were

caused by the overheat.   Any mistake such as wrong polarity, over current,

over voltage, all resulting overheat and burnt-down (of some area or inside of

a chip).  So, the heat management is a big issue in the electronic circuit design,

which is parallel with the issue of “Low power consumption” —– though, the

situation is always the same. ( 10A current on 1A device cause overheat, and

10mA current on 1mA chip will blow them off).   And the devil is, when they get

hot, the current increases = more current more heat = Thermal-runaway.

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Funnily enough, even this extremely advanced technological age, when the

fore-front of science is dealing with such as almost invisible Gravity Wave still,

the way to deal with a heat isn’t different from 100 years ago. = Hoping the heat

would disperse (hence, lower the temperature of the area) through heat

conductive material (include the air).

( To generate the electrics out of heat, hence take the heat away, seems a good

idea though, it’s efficiency is less than 10% = 90 % of problem is still there. 🙂 )

—– So, to against a problem of Hot Net-dongle, my solution was “as advanced

as the fore-front of the technology today can offer” = disperse

the heat through a heat-sink to the air.

Photo Left : Disassemble the Dongle.

The Centre : Put heat conductive paste on a metal part of the Dongle

then place a heat sink over it.

Photo Right : Place the SIM card in position and clamp all together.

—– It’s working perfect.  Heat sink is getting warmer, mean dispersing the

heat from the dongle and as a result, the Net-connection got much faster. 🙂

(So far so good. —–  In case, if small window appeared saying “SIM card

invalid” etc, it was caused by the card was not properly slide-in  ===>

Place the card again while mimicking the action to slide-into the position.)

~~~~~ So, have a cool Net surfing.    🙂

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How to teach No-Self and Void

No-self,  Mind of No-mind = Mushin,  Void etc etc —– in fact it’s all same state 

of the mind or brain though, a trouble is, it can not be explained —– because,

if it was explained, its action, and the words themselves destroy the notion of

No-self or Void and in effect, it is to prove that “You have your own Self”.    🙂

It is the same to a duty of silence, you can’t tell or declare that “I am in silence”

= if you tell that you are in a practice of silence = you fail the duty.

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In the Buddhist scripture it was “explained” in the relation to the 5 aggregates

= in fact the relation between the sense and the object =  “sensed” —–

such as a sense of vision and the object what you thought that you have seen,

and likewise sense of hearing etc etc = 5 senses and effectively all the existences.

===> Its core is,  you never be sure whether you actually seen it,  or what you

thought that you’ve seen, was true or not, that’s because the subject, you and the

object were existing in the relation to the others in moment to moment, hence

they couldn’t be defined as a reliable solid existence therefore nothing, include

yourself is real —– in another word, Void.    (It’s shame though,  to understand

what was written there doesn’t mean “able to get Selfless or see the Void” ! )

—– (The expression in a typical Mahayana scripture “Exists as Not-exists” was

an excuse of the autoer “I didn’t say neither exists or not exists” )   🙂

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Because of you, yourself is Void, you can’t explain it’s situation because the

situation in any moment is keep changing hence any static description could

be a false = in fact any such notion is nothing but a delusion.

So, this is the fundamental trouble to teach, let alone to explain the Selfless or Void.

Lord Buddha had this trouble too, of cause.   And his answer was “Not answer” —–

because, there is no problem to continue the life without having the SELF, far from

it, we were born and naturally living in Selfless, in other words, having and clinging 

to the Self, or believing that the world, or all the existences are really existing, is

nothing but the delusion.    So, what

Lord Buddha did was just show the practice he does in Selfless state (Mushin) = 

and he instructed to do the the same, exactly like him. = and everybody followed =

automatically following him exactly the same manner IS nothing but the practice 

of the Selflessness.    (Please read [Test of Selflessness])

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It is impossible to explain what the Selflessness or Void is, still in practice 

anything can be done in completely Selfless manner and it is in deed a

demonstration and the proof of the Void.

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And this was the reason why the scriptures are in haywire still the teachings of

Buddhism and it’s tradition has been maintained in the Zen practice.

—– if you can do the same, again and again without conceive a question, you are

in the Selfless state.    And you can extend this state to do any other work, even a

thinking process.   (It may sound funny as it is the same brain though, the thinking

part of the brain is not necessary involving the emotional region where the feeling

of Me = Self was created.  —– So, the mental practice of Detachment will work.)

___/\___

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釈尊の教え — その原形

釈尊の教えの原形を考える上で最も決定的な鍵となるのはその僧伽（サンガ）にカーストは

存在しなかったという事実です。何故カーストという概念が生れたのか？－－－実は

それこそがヒンズー教の根底である輪廻再生の観念で，カーストはその個人の前生の反映，

その結果に外ならないという理屈であったのです。

釈尊の時代はちょうどこのヒンズー思想の勃興期で，儀式的なバラモン教から陰惨な宿命論ヘの

移行期であった訳です。  これはかつて日本にあった『天中殺』の流行のようなもので，

それを真に受けて信じ込んだ人間は恐怖のパニックに陥った。

当時の新興宗教のグルが説く輪廻再生，カーストのくびき説におびえる人々に

“心配するには及ばない，そもそもベーダやヒンズー教で言うような不滅の魂（アートマン）など

と言うものは無い。人の肉体が死ねばそこに宿っていた魂，我と言うものも消滅する。これが

涅槃であり，そもそも我（セルフ）などと言うものは当人の思い込み，妄想以外の何物でもない”

と説かれたのです。つまりこの教えは『輪廻再生を繰返す永遠の苦（娑婆，サムサラ）からの解放』

ではなく『“輪廻再生を繰返す永遠の苦”という誤ったヒンズー説からの解放を説いた訳だったのです。

古典的べーダ以来一般的に信じられていた不滅の魂（アートマン）を否定し，それが輪廻再生して

カーストが現れるとしたヒンズー教の流行思想を否定した

釈尊の説は実に革命的な教えであったと言えるでしょう。(この教えの根底に縁起，

因縁説（肉体と精神，我の相互依存）がありそもそも我などというものは存在し得ないという

考えが包括的空観に発展していった訳です。）  と言う史実を一見するだけで，仏教というものが

いかにヒンズーやタントラと混合され換骨奪胎されて来ていたかを窺い知る事ができます。

つまり人類は実に２０００年以上に渉って釈尊を冒涜し続けていたのです。

___/\___

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Fleet Street — Bicycle (?)

There isn’t much story to wright about in this post, but just a test of

that  2 elements homemade lens to take photos of general subjects.

Being as two plastic lens, there is not much quality to ask but the image with

full of hallation. = It’s mean, if any bright object was there, the image would

be completely eroded. —– But that is what this lens was.

The Bicycles were just happen to be there.

Some are quite fancy !    Though, I’m not fancy to ride this kind of purely

experimental model.   —– ( I would say, utterly impractical. 😀 )

= May be as useless as “My very homemade Lens” here.   😀 

Still, I like those nostalgic, old pinhole screen like image.

And I found that this lens can produce quite usable image

if the contrast wasn’t too high.  

So, it suits for the flowers in dull light.

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Meadow Flower – (2)

Yet another photos from the same flower patch as before.  

And this time, I used the same homemade lens and the Zeiss 85 mm F1.4 lens.

On the photo, if the back ground image was not completely out of focus in a Bokhe,  

such as this one and the top photo, they were taken by 2 element homemade lens.

Other photos, which got strong Bokhe in the back ground, like this one,

it was taken by the Zeiss 85 mm lens with  F1.4  aperture setting.

Not only it is a short telephoto  85 mm,  its extremely bright  1.4 F-aperture gives

very shallow depth of field —– yet still, the image in focus has pretty good details.

(That what this lens was famous for)

The photo Right is in fact the part enlargement of the Left photo.

Likewise, Right photo was a pert enlargement of the photo Left.

When this 85 mm lens was used on the close-up distance, it shows very

soft Bokhe due to the increased Coma aberration, which I like very much. 

Stopped down to a smaller F-aperture, hence increase the depth of field,

photo became like ordinary photo.  🙂

Still, which way to chose is depend on the purpose and the taste.

My original image of the wild flower meadow was in my vague child’s memory,

when the flowers were taller than me, and it was far more than 60 years ago.

There shouldn’t be the same clear images, therefore,  I don’t need to see

the images from a catalog  of a garden-center kind.

(And, I do no longer dealing with the reference book publisher.)

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White building — Hackney Wick

To go to Olympic park, we arranged to meet at “White building” in Hackney Wick.

It sound rather arbitrary instruction though, when I got there I realized that,

it was a very well known place to the locals and the people coming to the aria.

= In fact, a person I asked the direction replied “We are going there” so, I followed.

But, in reality, there is nothing in Hackney Wick — no shops around the station.

= we may call  “Ghost Town”  though, may be a bit more moderate expression

of  “Derelict  place” would be appropriate. 

In the East-end of London,  this area used to be a part of River Lee’s flood-plane.  

And the time when the industry relied on the shipping to move their material or

products, those area must be the bustling busy place.  (70, 90 years ago ? )

Alongside the river and the canal, the building used be a wharf, warehouse, factory

— are all empty, and now, may be accommodating  a lots of squatting  inhabitants.   

Likewise on the water,  lots of house-boat accommodating the people who is

keep drifting on. (not to became a moored residents to avoid the tax.)

So that, for the people who loves to live in freedom and the people share the same

spirit,  the artists,  loves to come to this place called Crate (or Space Studio) in the

White building.  = one of the converted wharf = caffe or bar what so ever called.

And I heard, this place would be clouded by hundreds of people in the evening !

The conversion project started a year before the 2012 London Olympic,  partnered  

with the London Legacy Development Cooperation.   And the Space Studio project  

was sponsored by Bloomberg.   This is a success story in  the Area Re-generation.

To go to Olympic park, the reason why we’ve chose Hackney Wick instead 

of usual Stratford to start, was to visit this White building.

All the staffs were very friendly and kind.  Though, they looks much more like

an artist than a waiter.  ( And, they got in house brewery = for own Crate Beer.)

I can see a lots of their hand work every where.  

Very resourceful improvisation and the craftsmanship. 

The customer will be well catered with their  Pizza  and house brewed beer.

(I had apple juice though.) 

The building having many studios and artist in residents and in deed,

this is one of the largest studio complex in London .

May be I should come again to see those studio and meet the artists.

 The drawback to become artist in residence here was that the place and their

beer was too nice — so that, just spent and live the time in feast.  Not much Art.   

And that was the main reason why the residents Artists move out of the place.    

I think, to lead those artists, the road-sign alone is not enough to

direct their life —– or YES ??? —– Then how ???  

Info’ of their activities =  < http://www.r-urban-wick.net/ > 

< http://www.publicworksgroup.net >  (but not much about Whitebuilding)

The Whitebuilding,   Queen’s Yard,  Hackney Wick,  London   E9  5EN

 

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Tilting Macro Bellows — Field Test

Following the test like previous post of homemade bellows, I took it to the park.

Setup was either Micro Nikkor 55 mm or Tamron 90 mm Macro on the bellows

which was mounted on Canon 5D  Mk-III.   And the most of the shots were taken

while the lens was tilted up to 30 degree. (Nikkor 55 mm = up to 20 degree,

Tamron 90 mm = up to 30 degree —– before the corner cut-off starts.)  

And as no F-aperture control, all the photos were taken with

fully open F-aperture.  (And hand held.)

Photo above, Right photo, you may see something strange = why the back petal

was out of focus. —– Because the lens was tilted.

Those photos were the too conspicuous demonstration of the tilting effect.  😀

But those were a bit more subtle.

And above left photo was made with Pan-focus effect and

the right was with Shallow-focus effect.

Shallow focus with rather exaggerated out of focus Bokhe. 

With the Bellows extension, the lense can give even larger close-up.

There were a lots of Bees and Bumble Bees though, they were too busy.

This small black fly seemed to taking a rest.

This Hovering Fly — right 2 photos, she was in the air hovering.

(I needed at least F5.6, not fully open 2.5)

Looks quite  inconspicuous,  still this photo was benefited by the tilting effect.

—– Tilting the lens works well though, to have full benefit of it need to have it

from infinity, not just on the close-up = But to do it,

I need to make yet another Tilting SLR using DSLR body.   🙂

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Tilting Macro Bellows Test

These are the photos of the test shot of the Tilting Macro Bellows

which I’ve shown in this blog two posts ago.

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In photography,  Focused Plain is parallel to the Image Plain. = It’s mean if you 

want a photo of the wall painting, you have to aim a camera parallel to the wall.

(Ideally, the camera should be held at a half height of the wall and in the center,

provided the lens can cover wide enough for the whole wall.)   But when you want 

a photo of the carpet, you may not able to hold the camera right under the ceiling.

= Then you have to take a photo from one end of the room.  As the carpet stretching

end to end, to have the whole area in focus is not easy. = You have to use small

F-aperture and very slow shutter speed.—– Otherwise, use a camera which can tilt a

lens or use a lens called Tilt-shift Lens which may carry a price of £1500 or more.

——- Photo above Left is a modified camera “Conica-Tilt 2” and here with

——- Nikon PC-Nikkor 35 mm F2.8  

——- and the Right, this massive lens is Canon TS-E 24 mm F3.5   

When the lens was tilted 10 degree,  it can focus the object 20 degree out of parallel, in

other words, even if the camera was held parallel to the wall (90 degree to the  floor),

if the lens  was tilted 45 degree down, it gives a sharp focus of the floor, end to end.

( But very few lens can work while tilted 45 degree =due to limit of the image circle.)

Photo above, are the demonstration of  Tilting lens effects.  

Photo Left, the lens was dropped hence, Pan-focus effect was created.

But in the photo right, the same degree tilted lens was aimed to the same subject

“Upside down” (Lens was tilted upward) hence giving very shallow depth of focus.

The relation of the Subject – Lens – Camera was like this.  

Left for Pan-focus and the Right for Shallow-Focus effect. 

When the lens was tilted, focused plain is no longer parallel to the camera,

= like on this photo, as the lens was tilted left  20 degree, the focused plain

runs almost corner to corner.   So that, this kind of technique gives more 

choice of the focus control = which subject to be captured sharp.

(The photos here, Micro Nikkor 55 mm F3.5 was used on Canon 5D Mk-3

with F-aperture was set to fully open F3.5)

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Tilting Macro Bellows

This is a photo of a hand made close-up accessory = Tilting Bellows, I made when

I was first year in my Uni’  and it was featured in a Japanese photo-magazine.  

On that time, I didn’t have proper Macro lens — I had Nikon F Photomic,  

24 mm F2.8  and 50 mm F2  that’s all.    And for the special close-up photo 

of the plant, I was using modified Mamiya Press (6×9 format).  

I made this mini bellows for use with 50 mm f2 lens and this combination

gave  1/5  to life size close-up.  —– Without doubt,  this must be the most 

rudimental, and cheap bellows ever designed !  

(You may see the extreme minimal way of the thinking in this design !) 

 = Lens rear cap was mounted on a L-shaped small aluminium panel and

 it was connected to a body cap with a kind of bellows made out of a plastic

sheet (it was a dark curtain).   Lens panel and the camera body were both

 mounted on a straight  camera bracket by means of  1/4″ screws  which 

allow the lens to be held up to 50 mm away from the body, and the front

panel (hence the lens) could be held in angle to the body, therefore 

tilting effect could be easily used as a focus control as well !

I’m certain I got the original somewhere though,  to use it with Canon EOS 5D,

the height of the lens is not the same and to use it with Nikon D810 would be

too awkward ( because of their setting of Non-CPU lens. )  —>  I decided to

make the same for  5D, but use with Nikon lens —– Nikon lens has manual

F-aperture ring and the flange-back is 1.5 mm longer than Canon. )  

Photos above shows the making process.  (I used the lens rear-cap again. )

Then, to make a bellows, this time I found a black leather in a flea-market.

—– Still, bag-bellows has to be designed and stitched in rather awkward way

though, it can be done anyway = only needs stitch, — by stitch.  😀

So, this is the finished product. (Though, I’m going to change the

body mount ring to black aluminium one.)  

Still, what all those works for,  was remained to be seen with the resulting photo.

This is the sample of the tilting effects. (55 mm Micro Nikkor,  20 degree tilt)

(Top photo shows Pan-focus effect.   Bottom photo is its reverse effect.)

If the junk material was available, the cost to make like this would be

as little as £5 if not nil.  🙂

———-

PS:   Good additional reading = [Shallow Focus — Pan-focus]

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Green Karenisque Photo

If the camera was shaken while the shutter was open = image get blurred.

Still, if the shutter duration was very short (fast shutter speed) and made

the length of blurr short and negligible,  we can accept it is sharp enough.

(So, when you shoot moving subject, use higher shutter speed = image was

not still though, our eyes may not able to see such detail and think it sharp.)

But when the image showed a lots of blurr, we see it different.  Intellectually it

wouldn’t make any sense as the subject though, we see it a kind of sign,

unknown symbol or illegible message. 

—– We just open our mind while abandoning to think what it IS. 

When you see a blurred photo like this, you might thought that the camera was

vigorously shaken or twisted.  Though, in reality, it was made by a small wobble

of the wrist when shutter button was pressed, that all.  If you put two rulers or

something straight from right hand side center of rotation to one streak of  light,

you may measure the radial angle of the movement. = It’s only about 3 degree !

(Still, it is a combination of the movement, the shutter speed and the lens

focal length. = if the shutter speed was longer and the lens (Zoom position) was 

longer, the brurr would be much more.)  

When I was in my Uni’  I had  free access to our Photo dark-room and able to do

all sorts of Photographic experiments.  And on top of this, I had access to the

engineering workshop of the Technology Dept’ not mention their skip was filled 

with discarded materials and the broken machines = I could make all sorts of

things, while using even big engineering machine.  

So, when I wanted to try blurring effect, I made a Camera Rotating Bracket  

which can rotates the camera at the center of the image and corners —–

then I realized that to make rotating blurr does not need to rotates the camera 

but just radially wobble the direction of the lens.  (It’s the same, to draw a circle,

you don’t need to rotates a pencil with caliper but just move a pencil circular.)

But shake the camera straight is a bit different from rotates.

How fast is depend on the shutter speed and the pattern of subject.

Just try and see the effect.   (And try again and again. )  

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