Slide Duplication / Digitization using Flash-light

They are the samples, which were Digitized on fluorescent light-box = I talked about before. 

But photos above were digitized using a TTL flash-light.

( They are in large size = click to enlarge and see the details (but ignore the dust ) 😉

It’s not too bad in highlight tone. ( in the shadow, some noises due to “Brighten-up” )

If anybody visited here twice, you may noticed that the photos are different from before.

—– I’ve changed them, in fact three times as I was not happy with the color of Dupe. 

What I wrote about [Home-made Light-box] —– as a Slide-viewer, it was correct though,

to use it for Duplication was wrong.   Color was far from ideal = in fact, dreadful. 😀

[]

I tried to tinker the color temperature etc. still not suticefied, and tried to use LED light

though,  fundamentally fluorescent light and White LED has the same characteristics.  

Whitish color of LED was emitted by the mixture of fluorescent compound, excited by

LED’s near UV light = same as the Fluorescent light tube.  Since it was produced by a mix

of BGR light, its light spectrum has the typical light-spike from its chemical, hence color is

never perfect.  –—- on the end, I came to the conclusion = it’s better to use a flash-light =

its Xenon discharge light which has a continuous light spectrum is much more natural.  

Unlike easily fooled human-eyes, an image sensor in a DSLR pick-up those

peaks and the spikes and produce wrong color which is harder to eliminate.    

 

To use a flash-light for Slide-duplication is not a complicated business.  

Just place a flash under the white perspex (may be 4″ / 10 cm away). —– I cut a 2″ (5 cm)

square hole in the center of 8″ high card-board box then put white perspex on top, and placed

a flash-light inside.  (of cause, flash is aiming to the cut-out hole straight.)

I put some layers of white tissue over the flash face to diffuse and reduce the light.  

I used Canon 430EX-II in the TTL mode but on -1/3 setting. (For High-contrast original, expose -1

and brighten up with after process might be better)  Flash and the Camera was connected by

an “Off camera cable“.  With this set-up, the exposure will be controlled in TTL though, to make

it a bit brighter or darker, it is easier to use a flash with manual setting (with minimum power

setting ) and adjust the exposure by changing F-aperture or ISO setting, as it can be done from

the camera side.  ( To change the setting on the back of flash is more awkward.)

While testing this, what I noticed interesting was that a dupe made by D800 with HDR seemes

not much different from a dupe made by C’ 5D Mk-III with flash-light (only one exposure) of

which the shadow was brighten-up by common photo program. = Canon’s image sensor and

their processing engine seemed to have wider Dynamic Range in the first place than Nikon.

(To see the comparison in this post.)  To be fair, this matter needs to have more critical test.

[]

Slide Dupe by D810 HDR

Since many of my old films came out of boxes, I tried to make some digital dupe of them.

The main reason why I bought canon 5D Mk-III was that it has HDR (High Dynamic Range) built-in. —– (Though, it turned out to be unusable unless it was processed in PC with their DPP program. ( PS : It was the result of first test, hence I’ve given-up to use though, I tested again further and I found that it works in the most of the subjects = so, fair to say it was NOT unusable = some of the lighting condition and a combination of the lens may show unsatisfactory result. )   In contrast, Nikon D810 seems to be a bit subtle but it is quite useful as the camera alone gives processed image on the spot.  (Even hand-held shot, if the exposure difference was within 3 stops, it works reasonably — not perfect though, don’t ask too much = effect is somewhat similar to put a big reflector to brighten-up the shadow.)

———- (Photo Left :  Straight Copy.      Photo Centre :  with HDR.      Photo Right :  HDR and + 1/3

———- Which one to choose would be depending on one’s tastes ? )    ( St. German-de-Pre, in Paris)

So, the sample photos here are the Digital Copy of the Film slide.  The Originals were the Kodachrome ISO 25 film.  (Almost  40 years old.)

Copy Camera was Nikon D810 with Micro Nikkor 50 mm, and using their HDR setting.

What ever a way when Copy was made,  whether by film or Digital means,  the range of the tones would be lost and became higher contrast. 

Photo Left : This was a straight Copy and the Right : was with HDR.

(Original Dynamic Range of the Kodachrome was squeezed into narrower range, hence lost its original sparkle = photo looks dull now) —– Mind you, the  original Kodachrome 25 has the detailed tone in its highlight and in the shadow as well. = Otherwise, where the details on Music Score came from. —– (Camera couldn’t create, if no image was there.)  😀

—– In this extent, the resolution of Digital Camera may surpassed the resolution of such as  Ektachrome film though, the Dynamic Range of the Kodachrome yet. 

= With the use of HDR, they may just come closer to emulate the film.

 []

(This Dupe was made using Flash-light and Canon 5D Mk-III without HDR, and the photo was brighten-up a bit on after tinkering process.  —– not much difference to above HDR photo.)

[]  There is a funny misunderstanding among the people  —– People has been fooled by a word / technical term such as “Number of BIT” = To express color depth by 8 bit or 12 bit etc. those number is an indicator of “How finely divided” (Say, 2 bit mean Black or White.  8 bit mean, the staircase of darkest Black to brightest White was divided into 256 steps, that all).  

From darkest to the brightest, how many times (in exponential scale) brighter is the Dynamic Range or in old term, Latitude. 

The B/W film was known to have a Latitude of 7 stops  ( = in metaphor, a grey become Black on F 22 but if the aperture was open 7 stops to F 2 the same grey will be captured as white.)  And the Color films and TV Cameras got only 5 stops of Latitude. (That’s why TV needs many lights.)

Even after the digital revolution, the situation hasn’t been changed much, since there is NO such things like a digital sensor = the sensors and the display units are all in analogue. !   All due to the limitation of those electronic components.  

(You know, the darkest black you can see on the screen is the darkness when you switch off your device. —– Is it dark ?  😀 )

(Usable linear part of their character is limited by such as quantum mechanics. ) 

[]The most of ignorant photographer who “worship” Raw File is believing it has more though, it is like a 1′ scale and a 30 cm scale.  Metric scale looks divided finer than inch scale, Raw is a bit finer that’s all.  Lossless JPEG compression wouldn’t make so much difference to Raw.

Raw doesn’t have extended Black outside of  30 cm or White on top.  

The total length is still the same.

[]The wide coverage of  the ISO setting in a DSLR was achieved by the higher amplification of the output from the censor = if the sensor was designed for low-light,  the highest output under bright light was also lower.  = Because, the sensor has almost the same latitude or dynamic range.  I wonder, if any DSLR which has 2 stops more Dynamic Range come to the market ?  

(Of cause with one exposure.   I don’t mind if it got digital signal process built-in for this purpose.  —– Or are they expecting the people resort with after process ? —– ( PS : Some information educated me.  Now such as Panasonic’s Lumix camera and their image processing program is even correcting the aberration of the lens = It is really the electronic company’s answer to the optical problem = not by the optical design but by their own trick = electronics !  )

[]

Hand-held Photo for 1 second

This photo was taken in a church in Schwetzingen, Germany when I visited and listened  

hundred of Pipe Organ in Europe.

As far as I remember, this photo must be the best usable Hand-held photo (which got an

evidence), in my entire life.  —– how can I say this ?  =  The film was Kodachrome  ISO 25.  

The lighting condition like this = if it was ISO 400,  1/30 or 1/15,  F2.8.  —– just count on

your fingers, it became  1/2 ~ 1 second for ISO 25 Film.  But the lens was Pentax  17 mm F4.  

It was in deed 1 second F4.    Please look into the mirror above the organ key-board. =

The image in the mirror was me holding camera = no tripod.

Still you can read (well more or less) the music score.

Not too bad isn’t it for Hand-held for one second ?

—– (Knack to hold the camera is,   1) Close armpit and put elbow solidly on the chest.

2) Don’t push button with pointing finger alone but do it as if you are squeezing all the

finger inward.    3) Relax, never been tensioned.  Just hold breath and release the shutter.)

(Because of an Organist who is facing the key-board, hence couldn’t see the progress of a 

mass service behind of him, it is necessary to have a mirror there to see the timing.)  

—– Well, it was a long time ago,  when I had a muscle.   😀

[]

Home-made Light-box

Whether you believe or not, this is my Light-box.   It was made out of a Japanese cookie’s

wooden box.   Into the box, I put  a small fluorescent tube and a mirror board under the tube,

then covered with white perspex = So, it became a Light-box.  (So easy and cheap.  😉 )

In ostentatious principle, the light-box should have a Print organisation’s standard light souse,

5000K etc. though in practice non of the so-called Natural Light fluorescent tube got perfect

color balance anyway.   And all the light-box in the market were too big and heavy.  

I wanted to make it small and easy to carry, since non of my client has got one as they are just a

business office, not like an editorial room of a publisher.  When I deliver the photos of the

assignment and to show the transparency to them,  I needed to bring my own Light-box.

[]

Of course, a Light-box “was” an essential tool to a “Film” photographer, but not only that, it

is a very useful tool in general.  When I needed to analyse electronic circuit, I used a reverse

print of circuit track and a photo of component side, two prints together on the Light-box to

see through the connection.  😉 —–  And this time, I used it to copy the old transparencies.

Those photos were taken at the Spring Festival in Seville in Spain.  (1974 ! )

On the duped 35 mm Kodachrome ISO 25 (my regular film then) apparently lost some tone

and I may need to refine more though, still it is usable for a net-communication.

—– PS :  (Usable but, since I was not happy with its color, I made another copy using

flash-light instead of this fluorescent light.  😀 —– I’ll write about it soon. )

I can not stop imagining, these young  Guapa Chiquita now must be the good granny.   😀

They must have had a joyful life.  (Good dancer has less worry.  😀 )

———- (This is the Pipe Organ of the St. Michel Church in Hamburg, Germany.  

———- Taken by Pentax 17 mm Fish-eye lens on Nikon FE ) 

For some high contrast image, even a dupe on Home-made cheap Light-box, using 5D Mk-III

with 100 mm EF Macro is not too bad.

 I’m really happy, after almost 40 years Kodachrome retained its original color.  

(you may say “So, What”  😀 )

[]

Home-made Light-stand (2) — Copper Clad Cable Spiral Lamp

This Spiral cable Lamp was the earliest I made in England.   While stay in London, I used a

Film Labo’ where many Japanese photographer were taking their film to be processed.  

Photographer is the observer of the world and the human life.   And the people who is

developing  their films are yet another kind of the observer.  —– By watching the subjects

in my film, the owner of the Labo’ seemed to have noticed who I am, and asked me  

“Do you know electronics ?”  “Yah, a bit”  “Do you know about this machine ?  Can you repair ?”

—– It was a hefty spot welder.   Hefty because of it got really hefty transformer inside, still

its structure is rather simple.   “OK, I’ll check it with my tool tomorrow”. = Next day, I found

the welder’s brake down was caused by a micro-switch in the timer controller and I replaced it.

= Here, working again.   The owner was very impressed,  not only a photographer carrying a

test equipment but actually able to repair the machine.   (He knew, knowing and able to do is

not the same thing.)   “OK, in exchange, you develop those  10 films free”  “Oh, sure”  

I like a kind of relationship which doesn’t involve a money =  I help you, so you help me.

And I started to use their small room in their studio as my office and in exchange,  if

anything repair kind of needs happened, I’ll help them.  Almost like an in-hose engineer.  🙂

(That’s how I got an experience to deal with 2500 V,  5000 WS studio type flash etc )

But to carry out some repair, in a awkward corner of the big studio space, or under the film

processing line,  I needed to have a work-lamp.  I made this Spiral Lamp of which all the

materials were piled up in a corner of the studio where used be a huge vegetable storage

in a corner of  “used to be the Covent Garden Flower and Vegetable Market”.  

(So, I know the Before and After of the Covent Garden Market !  🙂 )

[]

Copper Clad Cable is not common Japan where the main voltage is 100 V.   So, I first seen it in

this country.   The cable was covered by a copper tube hence it is quite solid and fire resistant,

still having certain flexibility or able to bend.  Most of work lamp was wire caged to protect

glass light bulb = so, I got an idea to use this cable itself to make protective cage around the bulb

—– then wall mount switch-box was fixed as its base. (Socket was fixed to the end of the cable

using Epoxy glue).  —– this is yet another minimalist’s approach though, all what we need are

there and perfectly functioning.  It may looks odd and a bit awkward to change a bulb though,

it worked perfect for my purpose.   Is there anything  wrong with it ?

[]

PS :  A quite few people, even the electrician who came to my room to re-wiring and the readers,

questioned me, how I could make the Spiral so neat ?  = Cable (Piro) was first close wound around

a gutter-pipe about 8 cm, then it was pulled and expanded.   Then both end was bent to the

wanted shape.  (Of course, the both end, the copper tube was peeled off and the conductors =

two cable were covered with proper  insulator sleeves and made proper electric connection.)

Though, I wouldn’t encourage the reader to do this kind of work, unless the person got enough

skill like a qualified electrician.  To play with main power is a very dangerous business.  It kills. 

 

[]

Home-made Light-stand (1)

This is one of my home-made Light-stand, second simplest one, which I found in a box

I’ve stashed it away 20 years (?) ago. (the most simplest one was using a bent single pipe.)

Light housing was made out of  7 mm pipe of which the top was rounded by tapping and bent.

Photo Left : Originally it was using very small tungsten bulb for an indicator though, those

bulb doesn’t last long, not mention a problem of heat-up.  

So, in this occasion, I changed it to a wite LED (Photo Center) .  In this kind of design, the matter

is the “Adjustable Pipe Clamp” = here they were made using shallow Aluminium C-channel,

bent to U-shape.  = One screw can loose and tighten everything at once. (Photo Right)

Thanks to LED, it can light up pretty long time from three AA batteries hidden under the base.

[]

Don’t ask  “What is for ?” = You may not ask a painter  “Why you sketch this land scape ?”

To see an aluminium pipe and think how to use and to make them into a certain shape and

appropriate structure is a game of creativity.  —– simply it is a fun.  🙂

[]

Zen in Action (3) — Latent Thinking

At moment, I’m in chaos of shifting the mountain of boxes again. Some of the regular readers

may remember, I said the same before, though it was for fitting new window but this time it

is for electric re-wiring. It’s mean, I have to shift those to the window-side to vacate the

wall-side for the electrician to access all the power-points, switches etc. (I’m not happy at all.

= so-called Electric safety standard has been changed and they say all the system has to be

kept-up, blah blah = keep industry busy to make money, but I’m dubious about

why the contract has gone to this company.)

So that, fortunately or unfortunately, I had to dig-up the boxes berried to the bottom which

I haven’t seen since when I moved to here.

[]

In common-sense, people only has what is essential to the own immediate life, the essential

for the daily life. —– ideally a Buddhist remained in their bare minimum though it’s the matter

of how the person define who he is = a Buddhist bikku (literally a beggar who forsaken all his

possession for a sake of seeking the truth) may needed to have one cloth to cover his body and

one bowl to receive food (then to drink, and take a water to wash himself etc.)

—– in this context when I found that the followers of

Lord Buddha had umbrella, I was very surprised (let alone the umbrella had been already

invented then ! —– this sort of analysis would lead to see the timing when Agama Sutras was

written, or its authenticity.)

[]

In fine day, still carry an umbrella for if it starts a rain, or carry a bowl in case if anybody

offer a food are all in the speculation (may happen but not on that moment) = in other words,

it’s only in the mind.     I wonder what Lord Buddha instructed to this matter to his followers ?

So, the teaching of “Live in the Moment” include the situation “Could happen next moment” too.

So, I carry a mountain of material to make something which could happen in any moment. 😀

[]

Don’t cling to your thought but leave the matter to the Dharma (occurrence of the Karma).

This “thought” meant be a kind of thinking we are doing in lingual form. —– as a matter of fact,

as Neuroscientists found that 90% of our thinking has been done subconsciously without convert

it to the lingual form. Even when we are in Mushin and totally occupied by one action, our Brain

is still in full working state unless we choose to have meditative state.

This “subconscious thinking” is no other than what we call [intuition], [hunch], and often giving

an [insight], or [inspiration] and those are the very “Latent Thinkings”.

[]

In comparison, what we learned in lingual form such as somebody’s words or what we learned

from the books will stay as the lingual memories.

We can say “I understood” is in fact, lexical understanding of an abstract notion of the word and

its meanings but not what it is in practice.

But what we experienced and learned in real life always carries the tag of emotion yet this

emotion is very difficult to convert and express in the words, because the tag in the emotion is

a part of the said “Latent Thinkings”.     In most of the case, lingual memory stay like a distant

objects and not necessary relate to the emotion hence, it is not necessary takes a part

in the “Latent Thinkings”.

The words “Be careful, it’ll bite you” stay as the words until after you were actually bitten =

Then, it will be imprinted into your subconscious with a pain, and “Be careful” become part of

your “Latent Thinking”.

[]

This is the very reason why actual practice or experience is so important to our life, and what

Lord Buddha said “Don’t believe  what others said but think yourself”

(better still through experiences).

—— (One of my Kinetic Sculpture “Cupidon / Archer” which was made mostly discarded material

—— I’ve picked-up, such as aluminium angles etc.  Except an Air-pomp (yellow one) I bought.  

—— The motor came from a Cooling-fan ) (Moving image is in youtube —> Click right column)

—– through experiences since my childhood, I knew, such as an aluminium angle is so useful

to make a structure, or such as a discarded printer contain very useful motor etc. = I collected

and stashed them in my room = hence made mountains of junks. So, when like this unexpected

situation occurs, I have to work hard to shift the boxes.

—– bad still, it’s an unusually hot summer.

[]

Macro Flash-light / Small Flash on Goose-neck

This must be a “You got to be joking” kind of funny, cheap adaptation of a flash for Macro

photography. —– And I would say “Why not” 😀

Since, most of my existing flashes, except Canon 430EX-II are not compatible for the latest DSLR

to give TTL flash control, I needed to buy one for Macro-flash modification which I described

it in a former post.

[]

The flash I found second-hand was 270EX-II, which is using only two batteries hence pretty small and

light enough to mount on top of a Goose-neck, instead to have internal modification I did before.

Decisive fact was that I already have [off the camera flash cable] made by Sunpak more than

20 years ago which was similar to the German SCA300 adapter system used by Metz, Agfa etc.

Sunpak tried to make the adapter for all the cameras which has been started to have new function, not

only ready-light, TTL flash control but even for focus-light for AF which was newly introduced AF camera.

Because of the Camera design was keep changing while adding new function, it was a hard task to

keep-up. —– On the end Sunpak became out of breath and bankrupted.

—– so, on that time lots of Sunpak products became obsolete and sold in a give-away price.

Once, Sunpak was a dominant force in the flash-light market with very innovative design and

versatile system such as the interchangeable head system with Telephoto head, Infra-red head,

Bare-tube head etc. not mention they produced very powerful model as well.

So, when I saw a box-full of their [Flash Extension Cable] in a camera shop, I bought all of them at once,

more than 20 cables for every type of cameras. —– Flash shoe is an awkward component to make

ourselves,  (still, I worked to make and modify, such as adding one more TTL contact to Pentax type to

make it Nikon type etc.  🙂 )  therefore, it’s better to keep enough supply of many types in hand,

and it’s got very useful coiled cable as well..

[]

DSLR camera manufacturer is selling their [Flash Extention Cable] and all of their Female connector has

only 1/4” Tripod screw. = Once flash was put on the cable, it has to be mounted on a stand, otherwise it

has to be held by a hand.      In contrast, the best thing of the Sunpak Extension Cable is, male and

female can be coupled, in other words flash can be perched on top of the camera, only 45mm

higher position.   So that, it can be changed Flash on the camera to hand-lighting just by pressing release

button (which can be locked as well)  hence, as far as I know, this is the best designed [FlashE xtention

Cable] in the history and the materials and the construction are also very good.

———– (Photo above:  1″ Aluminium C-channel is the best to make many structures.  

———–  And  3/4 ” Square Pipe will just fit inside, hence they can make best coupling system !  

———–  And they could be easily cut by hand tools, though it’s a very tedious work.  🙂 )

So, my modification was just Epoxy glued  female connector on top of a goose-neck and made a small

piece of aluminium channel to connect the goose-neck to the camera bracket which is the in-hose

standard to connect any of my flash-light systems to the cameras.

—– To use the 270EX-II flash as a Macro-flash, thanks to the flexibility of goose-neck, flash can be

positioned (more or less) where ever desired, with or without bouncing diffuser.

—– following photos are the Test sample of each lighting.  (Focus and  F  were Fixed)

————- (The Lens was CanonEF Macro 100mm F2.8 with home made “Ultra Proxer” / F2.8)

————- (This last set of sample photo was using   F11 —— slight difference of lighting changes

————- the character of the subject ! —– See the difference on enlarged images ) 

(And the sample photos in the field will be followed )  😉

—– those photos are taken in my room (I’m still busy dealing with boxes  🙂 ) of a small visitor,

Beetle, head to tale  6mm or 1/4″ big, using Ultra Proxer on Canon EF 100mm Macro

with 270EX-II flash and extension cable. 

 

(

(([]

——— (Photo Left : 100mm Macro at F16 + Ultra Proxer, 270EX Flash with Diffuser — taken x2 size.

——— Photo Right : same setting but at F 2.8 ) 

 

Close-up Lens on EF-Macro Lens

Well, those top two photos were taken by Canon EF Macro 100mm F2.8 Lens alone.

This Macro lens has internal focus system and it will be focused down to the life-size.

 For general macro work,  it is convenient to use though, for me,  life-size is often just

not close enough.  So that I specially made additional Proxer / Close-up lens my self.

As I detailed in the post, By using the Proxer, the Lens can close to  x2 size, and

in addition, it creates almost phenomenal out-of-focus Bokhe.

The Bokhe created by this additional lens looks almost like Air-blush Graphic work.

Still, since this Proxer was made out of the front element of a Zoom Lens, it got double

lens Achromatic construction, no Chromatic aberration was appeared and the focused

image is quite sharp, corner to corner, even when the lens aperture was fully open.

All those photos, except top two,  F-aperture was set to F2.8 and the Camera was

set to AV mode.  Auto focus does work though, as the nature of this kind of

close-up work, I used manual focus.   

[]

Ultra heavy Proxer — Close-up Lens from TV Zoom

Those photos were taken by Zeiss 85 mm F 1.4 lens, with my handmade Proxer was

attached to it.  The Proxer = Close-up lens was  in fact, a front element of a Canon

TV-Zoom lens which I’ve cannibalized from a broken lens.  (hence cost nothing  😉 )

As the original lens was a very expensive TV  lens,  it has a very high-quality

Achromatic lens.  ( Even ED glass may have used in its construction.)

In most of the case, it is not very difficult to disassemble the lens —– in this case,

after unscrew 14 small screws, the front Lens was disengaged from its focusing helicoid.

—– then it was glued to a 67 mm filter ring.  (filter glass was removed beforehand)  

Front-element of this lens works as a close-up lens, hence with 85 mm lens it act like

a life-size Macro converter.  —– And with large 1.4 F-aperture, it gives very shallow

depth of field. (and very big Bokhe ! — Still, the focused image itself is quite sharp ! )

——(Metric ruler was shot in 45 degree.  Left: F1.4  /  Center: F2.8  /   Right: F5.6)

Though, this 3 cm thick solid glass in a solid metal helicoid is really heavy, almost

the same weight of 85 mm lens itself.   😀 

(The photo above :  Left was taken F1.4,    but Right photo was F5.6 )

(In those photos, look at how the single hair of fluff was captured on F 1.4  

= Please click and enlarge twice)

As you can see from the photos above, off-focused Bokhe is a bit too much for

most of the people’s taste though, that is what I’ve been after.

(This effect couldn’t be mimicked by PS ! ) 

—– to get this effect, I tried many Soft Focus lenses, Filters, Pinhole Photo,

Double-density Pinhole, even Double Focus in Double exposure.  

But there is no sharp core in a Pinhole photo, and the Double exposure has

the trouble to keep the subject exactly in the same position etc etc.  

= After many many years of attempt,  now I think, I got what I wanted.  

Only a problem is, this TV-Zoom Proxer gives only life-size close-up image.  

May be I need to find another lens which got longer focal length.  😀

Still, it’s a start.

[]