Pinhole Portrait Picture

Some one might say, they looks like the photos of the earliest (100 KP)

digital camera. —– Oh, com’n they were created by a pretty expensive DSLR  

5D, Mk-III you know how much the cost !

(Taken at the Wednesday Workshop in Greenwich) 

And the others might say  “What a waste of time” = Hours of days of work,

and created this ? —– What for ? ? ?   Oh, com’n what’s wrong with you ?

I wanted to show = to be a portrait, what’s the minimum the picture

need to have — or other words, “Enough” to describe the person.  🙂

In fact, it was the same one = Semi-Fisheye,  Diopt-Pinhole Hybrid,  

Double-density Pinhole. Very very sophisticated Posh system, you know ? 

Ha ha ha   😀

[]

Camera Shake / Resonance of Tripod

On the previous post, the top photo taken by 200 mm Lens which was

held against the Camera body, was inevitably shaky and couldn’t been

properly focused.  When I realized that there is Catkins, I set-up a tripod

and 500 mm lens —– but after few clicks, I discovered that the photos

were utterly fuzzy.  => I increased ISO speed hence shutter speed,  still

the situation wasn’t get any better.     

Have look the information of the photo,  left bottom under the Histogram =

O mm lens mean Non-Canon lens, ISO 1600 and Shutter speed  1/2500 Sec.  

This was not off-focused image. ( no double line, typical to Mirror lens there) 

As the photo on the tripod showed the funny shake, I resorted with

hand held.  And strangely (you say), it produced much sharper image.

This time,  ISO 400 and the Shutter speed was  1/ 320. 

It was well known only to few people = a Shake caused by the Resonating

equipment. = In here, 500 mm lens, Canon 5D, and Gitzo Reporter Tripod

almost fully extended has happened to resonated and gave very fine vibration.

(If the extension of the tripod was shortened, there may not be a vibration.

= that is the tricky part of the  [Resonance] = hard to predict though, it is

possible to test => hit the set-up of the tripod with a stick and listen the

sound = if they makes good long sound “Boom” = Resonation suspected ! )

The photo above (heavily clopped image) by the

Tamron 500 mm Mirror lens,  hand held and  

ISO 1600, the Shutter speed was  1/8000 ! = I like a glare of branches.

(Human body is a dumper = wouldn’t resonates —– thanks goodness !)

May be I should find the frequency of this resonating vibration, because

Anti-Vibration system in the lens may not have an effect to higher frequency.

(I tested it with Anti-vibration of 70~200 F2.8 lens though as it got totally

different weight and the balance, the same resonance wasn’t replicated.)

May be I should talk about the Tripod in near future.

[]

Catkins on Alder Tree

Few days ago, I gave a peek to a broken Sony DSLR lens through Canon 5D

and saw it still works as a  200 mm optics.  —– then, I realized, what I saw

was not just a shape of a winter tree.  —– It’s Catkins there already !

With a serious attempt, I took picture of it with 500 mm lens on a tripod.

Yes, in deed it was the Catkins. = Without having any serious cold spell,

London started to have a Spring. —– I wouldn’t say I like cold but,

I believe the nature needs it as a cycle. 

The lens I was playing was the one I bought for £10 as a broken junk =

Sony-Minolta’s 18-200 mm Zoom lens, which has been seemingly dropped

and the barrel was broken into pieces. —– Still, amazingly, the main optics

kept its integrity and maintained its function = it can Zoom, and focus,

F-aperture is still working (though, setting only from the body side).

Since the Sony DSLR lens has Flange-back 44.5mm, to focus a bit forward

(in fact, 0.5mm exact) can give an infinity focus on Canon EOS body.

With some test shot, I was pretty impressed with its clever design and the

resilience = It’s a broken lens though, it is still usable as 18 mm to

200 mm lens. (with certain manual improvisation ! )

[] 

(Photo Left / Edge of the Lens was welded.   Center / Screw mounted Lens.  

Photo Right / Pincer Tool for the Lens mount ring.  This tool

called “Kanime” in Japan was given by the Pentax (Asahi-Kogaku)

—– Code of the tool = AK-1-1-LA means Asahi-Kogaku-1-1-Lens Assembly

when I had an exhibition in their Gallery in Tokyo )

But because it was made using  “Hot stamp” (drop a lens into plastic barrel

then heat seal) it was not expected to be disassembled and it was very hard

to modify and re-use.  —– I’m thinking what to use or making out of it ?

(Use for projection kind may be interesting, as the lens got

more than x11 times Zooming ratio.) 

[]

Lens Mount Adapter — AF type ? ? ?

Majority of the reader here may not know what this is.  This is a close-up

device called camera bellows. (This one came from a Photo-Slide  

Duplicator  “Illumitron” sold in the 80s. — I think. ) It would extend

the focus of the Lens much further, therefore creates close-up pictures.

(On this photo, Nikon 24mm F2 lens was mounted in reverse direction

to give even higher magnification. )

With full extension of Bellows, 24mm lens can give  x10 image  (Photo Left)

—– with less extension, this image was  x4  (Photo Right)

And those images were the Butterfly’s wing.  (Photo Left / x10 / 24mm F2)

(Photo Right / x1.5 / Micro Nikkor 55mm F3.5) 

Not necessary bellows —– to use any non-dedicated lens on the camera body,

we need to use a “Lens Mount Adapter”.    Especially with the Camera, which

Flange-back was thinner than the lens, such as Canon’s EOS was 44mm and

the Pentax’s  Flange-back was 45.5mm => It would give a margin of 1.5mm

to create an adapter. And the Photo above was the world first “Pentax to EOS”

adapter I made myself, soon after Canon introduced their EOS camera.

(Pentax P-K adapter was Epoxy Glued to a EOS T-mount adapter which was

cut to 1.500mm thin exact.) (Photo Left and the Center) 

There are many Pentax (M-42) to EOS adapters in the Net.  (Photo Right)

And this is the Nikon Adapter = a genuine Nikon Mount Ring from their K-3

ring was screwed on to a EOS T-mount ring which was cut to 1.250mm thin

—– together with the mount ring, it made a 2.5mm thick Mount Adapter.

I put a thin lever to move Nikon’s F-aperture using a wire from a Paper-clip.  

(Photo Center)     And I also made a special Lens Rear Cap with 

aluminium tub to protect this thin lever. (Photo Right)

Untill few years ago, the mount adapter sold in the Net was just a mechanical

adapter though, a type proclaiming to give AF confirmation started to appear.

On today’s hi-tech camera, the lens and the body need to work close together.  

The body (or it’s CPU) needs to know Which Lens, What Max F-aperture,

Which setting on the Zoom, Where is the current focus setting, etc etc.  

To give those informations, a circuit board with Micro-controller was

connected through the lens mount contact. (Photo Left / from Sony Lens)

 The Mount Adapter with Focus

 Confirmation has an electronic contact

and the inside having 1.5x3mm  size

Micro-controller which supposed to

give Lens Informations, such as Manual

Focus setting (hence the camera should 

give focus confirmation only) — but, all

the adapter I bought, non ever worked !  

(On the photo, 5 pins of the chip were

connected to each lens contacts ) 

I’ve tested Nikon type,  Contax type,  Pentax type, Olympus etc from many

different suppliers, from £7 to as much as £30 though, no AF confirmation

 but only showed F1.4 was the best.  Others were even worse like photos above !  

I smelled very fishy, I didn’t go any further.  (There is a high risk to damage

the camera  such as —— the report from a user.)

My guess was that, one or two, once or twice it might have worked before

though, Canon up-dated their firmware and blocked them = mass produced

(and fake as well) chip was sold, and the Opportunists are making a money

out of fraud !  (How many people actuary claiming money back ?  😀 )

So, the question is what to do with

such useless and potentially harmful

mount adapter. = as long as

electronically malfunctioning chip is

there, it can’t be used with camera.

—–> The answer is just remove it !  

Put the mount ring on a cooker’s hot-plate

or with any mean, heat it up to about 200 degree C ( Epoxy glue will be soften)

and use a knife to scrape it off.  Then you can use it manual, perfectly, safely.

(Never use wet towel to hold hot ring = hot steam will burn your finger.  

= Use dry kitchen towel instead.   Be be careful not to get burned ! ! ! ) 

Some maker is boasting “Precise engineering” though, I found most of

them were 0.3mm or so thinner = If it was too thick, it may trouble to

have an infinity focus though, if it was too thin, rotate the lens more. 😀  

And some User report saying “Expensive type has better fix (more firm

mounting) —– This is purely a myth.  

My Tamron 500mm lens has double adapter mount  (Tamron to Nikon +

Nikon to EOS / Photo Left)  hence it’s hard to call it anything solid !

—– Still it can create solid sharp image.  => Grip the camera body and

the lens, try shake them = you can see the lens wobble (on the gap of

lens mount it moves more than 0.5mm !). (Photo Right)  

Especially a Zoom Lens, they wobble a lots, and when you shake it,

you may even hear the rattling noise —– If it was made too tight,

lens couldn’t give a quick focus.   😀    Its loose construction was

the norm of the lens and not much trouble in the normal use.

(Your wobbling hand is far more trouble than the loose lens ! )

———————————–

PS: A funny story was that, when I tested “Lens Extension Cable” my 5D

might have changed its firmware settings inside and since then one of the

“AF confirm” type Adapter (For Contax / Sold by EMF) started working !

(Now, time to time AF confirm sign light-up, still

all the lens was treated as 50 mm F1.4) 

[]

Wide-angle Pinhole Photo

 In the previous post, I’ve shown you ultra-wide or Semi-fisheye “Diopt-Pinhole

Hybrid Photos” which mean, it used not only pinhole but combined with an

optical lens too. —– The photos here shows you how the device looks like.  

In fact it was a very simple device = Double-density Pinhole was mounted back of

an EOS mount-adapter and a pretty heavy concave lens was mounted on its front.

[]

If anybody try to do a pinhole photo on a SLR camera, (still, it could be done in

all sorts of the way such as a “Photo-sensitive emulsion was painted on a panel

which was placed inside of a huge Shipping container box and a small pinhole was

made opposite wall = Transportable [Camera Obscura] ) in most of the case,

people places a pinhole panel on the camera front where the lens was removed

and obtained fuzzy image of about standard lens. (If a camera used was Full-frame

DSLR, it would be equivalent 45~50mm lens but with APS size, it would be about

85mm lens image).

Because, such as Canon EOS camera has 44mm flange-back (distance from lens

mount to image-sensor) and the diagonal size of 36x24mm frame was 43.26mm

=> If you draw a Triangle 43.26mm wide, and 44mm high, you will get a spread

of the top-angle 54 degrees.

The shorter the hight of triangle, the wider the spread though, you can’t place a

Pinhole panel closer than 37mm (7mm inside of the Camera) otherwise it

obstructs (or damages) the mirror.   This limitation lead me to resort with an

optical glass to obtain wider view in the pinhole photography.

So, the inside of the device, you can see blue panel of a beer-can (Photo Center)

and the Double-density pinhole of which the outer hole was 1.5mm and the

center hole was about 0.15~0.2mm. (Photo Right).

After a field test, where I found hopeless Halation in this optics, I realized that

I need to give an Anti-reflection covering to the shiny beer-can. 😀

—– (The photos above shows the comparison = with or without Concave lens.

—– Note : Pinhole Photo has NO distortion or any optical aberrations

—– = Since it is not Optics NOR bends the light. (Save a Diffraction. ) 

— (Being Pinhole, there is NO focus or Depth of Field = Fun to make a Close-up !)

It needs further refinement still, at least, I got pretty wide “Pinhole Photo” view.

—– whether it was worthwhile or meaningful was arguable though, it was

what I wanted. (with fun ! )  😀

By the way, the lens I’ve used was cannibalised from a “Fisheye adapter lens”

widely available in the net.  (about £10~£15 but quality is what we paid

= I mean Don’t expect too much.  —– this is a Fun Project.  😀 )   

And about the lens mount-adapter, I’ll talk about it in the next post.

[]  

Dulwich Park — Semi-Fisheye Pinhole-photo

If you try Pinhole Photography on SLR camera, most likely you get

an image of about Standard lens (45~50mm).   In order to get even

wider image I made “Diopt-Pinhole Hybrid System” —– And

I got Semi-Fisheye Pinhole images.  (More details in the next post.)

(In this post, other lens was 15 mm lens.)  

Pinhole itself was “Double Density Pinhole” and on front of pinhole panel,

I mounted very strong concave lens. —– hence, the viewing angle was

determined by the concave lens and the image was created by the Pinhole.

Strong concave lens created quite a distortion too = hence semi-fisheye.

I can take very sharp photo though, it was not my creation.  Simply, the

lens I used was happened to be very sharp, that’s all.  As it was not my make

and available to anybody = anybody use the same lens, the picture would be

sharp.  It is an old crèche situation = “Nice photo !”  “Yes, camera was good”.

I fed-up with nice sharp photo, so, I’m creating rather fuzzy unsharp images

which is definitely my creation and I’m solely responsible.

And this is the first field test of  “Diopt-Pinhole Hybrid Photography” 🙂

(Probably first ever in the world.  😀 ) 

Dulwich is in the walking distance and they got quite few nice old buildings.

Though, I excuse not to provide detailed information of the subjects.

(I only need to test optical effects.)

( I wonder, why Snowdrop has no other than white flower ?

—– Don’t tell me because the snow is always white.  😀 ))

I don’t know, is there anybody actuary living in this “Park warden’s house”?

For a soft focus effect, Double-density Pinhole seemed to be a bit too much

or need to make even smaller, sharper hole.   And the concave lens creates

hopeless halation —– a bit more work was required here.   🙂

[]

River Thames (on the Greenwich)

Those are the photos from the last week Shooting session

— or walking with camera in Greenwich.

The center of the photo, the tallest building is the Canary wharf, and

right hand side there is the Millennium Dome.

The camera was Canon 5D Mk3 and the Lens was Pentax 15mm F3.5

[]

Camera Cafe

They says it’s only one Camera Cafe in the world — may be, but I don’t care.

On the Photo above, end of street is British Museum (This is Museum Street).

Past decade or two, we are seeing less and less camera shops.  Small camera

shop disappeared because of big discount shop such as Jessops.  

And Jessops disappeared because of the internet shopping.

But before, local camera shop was a kind of talking shop and to the regular

faces, shop offering a cup of coffee or two. = So, to have a chat while having

a drink in a camera shop was not unusual sight at all. But digitals changed all.

Unlike a film photography, digital camera gives the result on the spot and

any short-coming become visible at once = anybody can see what’s wrong

and what to do. (if not, try other button = no need to learn, just press it !)

I know Camera Cafe many years —– they even organized a fund-rising

campaign to help Tsunami victims in Japan (gosh, 3 years ago !) = So,

it is a kind of node in the society and a salon to the photographers.  

And as a second-hand camera shop, they got quite a collection of

Zeiss lenses both for Hasselblad and Contax, on top of more familiar

Nikon and Canon. (as far as I’ve looked around, they are cheaper —–

such as Nikon F4 body, they offered for £250 —– only a while ago, I saw

it £350 at Nicolas of Camden = hence I nearly bought it but I got 150mm

lens for Hasselblad in stead (which I sold same one 25 years ago) (I can

test and use the lens on my current 5D Mk3 but to test Nikon F4, I need

to set up a dark-room to deal with B/W film again = a bit too much   :-))

The technical staff, Richard (photo Left) was a film maker before and

having immense depth of knowledge over lenses and the cameras.  

Very nice man to chat with.  🙂  —– and they got an exhibition space as

well (see the details on their website). 

Looking back the shopping list I did in there (such as Nikon’s 35 mm

PC lens,  Olympus 80 mm Life-size Macro etc etc.) —– I realized, that

I’ve been buying a kind of the item rather unusual = hard to sell

—– it’s mean, I’ve been a good customer to them.  😀

(But in the same time shop is keeping it’s own Reson de etre !)

They are open till 7:00 evening —– the best of the things there IS

they don’t have the restless tourist like customers.  😀

[]

Cooking KINTON in easiest way !

Kinton, in here Kuri-Kinton is a kind of cooking especially aiming

to a New-year’s celebration in Japan.  —– it is in fact a kind of Anko,

made out of white bean and some time it got sweet chest-nuts too.

Though, to cook Adzuki-bean and make Anko is a long laborious work

= use any bean, the work is more or less the same though, there is

always an escape —– if you can sacrifice some authenticity.

—– And this time I’ve took an easiest way which was non of the

corner left intact.  = (in other words, everything was cheated = Still,

end-result wasn’t too bad.  :-D)

It’s a long work to cook dry bean soft from scratch —— If so,

why not utilize the most popular readily cooked bean.  😀

I separated a tin of baked bean from its source (Left Photo) and

rinsed them to reduce the saltiness and boiled them with sugar.  

( Though, as it was a Baked bean with Tomato source, the residue

of red colour was a bit too much, I added a baked potato to

whiten it.) ( Centre Photo   🙂 )

[] 

And after cooking, I got the idea to add Sweet-horse-chest-nut to

elaborate it to Kuri-Kinton. (But it took few days to find a pack of sweet

“Ferrero Rocher” —– as, I thought it was a Marron Grasse =

Sweet-horse-chest-nuts cooked in sugar.  But it was an utterly ignorant

mistake = it turned out to be just another Chocolate. (Right Photo)  😀    

I think I ate Marron Grasse 30 years ago which was lapped in Gold, like

Ferrero Rocher.  😀   Anyhow, as I don’t buy or eat sweets, I didn’t know.

—– So, I needed to go to a Japanese Shop to buy Amaguri (ready to eat

sweet Sweet-horse-chest-nuts to mix with Kinton.  🙂 ) 

—– So, at last, here the typical New-year’s cooking Kuri-Kinton.   🙂

It’s color a bit darker still it looks like genuine Kuri-Kinton, and taste

really like Kuri-Kinton = I don’t think there could be any doubt.

Far from it, I’m sure we can enjoy this.  —– Yet, some one might

say, it’s not genuine though, such complaint is only in the mind.

[]

Dedicates one’s whole life to make the best Kinton, while seeking the

best possible genuine beans etc etc IS a kind of the LIFE. —– Wearing

silly mask and costume to dance for a Carnival or Halloween can be

yet another LIFE = neither LIFE could be seen to be better or anything

closer to the Enlightenment.   BUT, at least, arguing like this is definitely

the waste of the time.  Zen only say, if you got to do, do the best.  (I mean,

it include good cheat as well. —– for a sake of good cooking.   😀 ) 

___/\___

[]

Kan-zakura = Winter-cherry

Cherry blossom in this time of year ? —– you might say.  

But this is not fake or old photo.  This is real though —— 

In reality, actual looks of the cherry is far from Photogenic isn’t it.

= Whitish cherry flower has to stand out under the deep blue sky.

When the flower was under the bright sun-light, the pupil of

our eyes close, hence the sky behind became looks darker.

(It is the same situation of the bright snow-scape, sun and the sky is 

the same though, if the foreground is bright, the sky looks darker)

But when bright sun-light is not available —– why not make one.  😀

So, this is a photography,  completely opposite of the previous post

[What’s there ?] and the recent post such as [Fort’Mason’s —] where

I talked about “What is real or looked as it is” —– instead, here I tried

to create or falsify “Ideal image” with intentional manipulation.   🙂

So, I used a flash-light to brighten-up the flowers = F-aperture was

set for correct exposure for the flowers,  but the shutter speed was

set to make under-exposure for the sky. (make it looks darker)

Took advantage of flash-light,  I took the same flower’s photo

with Double-Density Pinhole.

Pinhole photography sound natural though, in reality, as it needs to give

rather long exposure, it is not necessary good for flower photography.  

( with wind, they move too much.  😀 )  

Use flush-light would be one of the answer. = So, this is an artificial 

creation of an artificial silk flower by Double-Density Pinhole photography

which satisfy my stereotypical idea of “What fluffy flowers should be” 🙂

[]