Party Time
On the London Underground I encountered very very colorful
bunch of the people. They said they are on the way to “a kind of Party”
—– later, I found, they are in fact the Government officers !
(Do you noticed, they are wearing 007 type very special glove ?
It might be for Golfing Gold finger’s)
I guess, it may not be a special disguise for a rather elaborated
intelligence operation but more like for a chemical-physiological
assessment project to find a toxicity of the liquid substance.
—– anyhow, to avoid me to become a hacking subject of GCHQ,
I shouldn’t go into too much details.
I wish them having had a very GOOD time
and safely returned to their home now. 🙂
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Fancy Vinegar Flask ! ——- ? ? ?
Week ago I’ve bought rather fancy item from Lidl shop.
I don’t know the name which the receipt said Geschenkset. = Anyhow
this is a Glass Flask to serve Vinegar and Olive-oil on the dining table.
They were sold as a gift set (for a Xmas ?) —– Olive-oil and a Vinegar
together with a glass flask for £7.99 !
In fact, I was not interested in to
buy Olive-oil nor Vinegar, but
fascinated by the design of
glass which I can use it to
design strange sculpture kind.
Though, watching this many
days, I still couldn’t figure out
“How to make this” —– how a
Glass Craftsman made this !
Simplified description is, “Small glass flask inside of larger flask”
though, it is an utter puzzle to me = How it was made ? —— through a
hole of large flask, inserts a glass pipe with melted glass on the tip-end
and blow it up to make a small flask inside, and weld two together on
the edge of the hole —– though, as the photo above showed, the neck of
the small flask is not an one-piece straight pipe = inside small flask was
made separately and the outside pipe was welded later. But how ? ? ?
= If anybody who is reading this knows about the way to make,
please put a comment “How it was done” !
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Looks false image ! ?
They are the Photos from Greenwich London though, as you may feel,
somewhat all fishy image. 😀 —– Fishy if not irritating.
It’s definitely wrong —– isn’t it ?
M m m m m ?
Ha ha ha, you got to be joking.
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Toy for a Grown-up / Rhythm Indicator
This electronic device is —– I may say, Rhythm-Indicator !
When I was a Disco-King (you believe or not 😀 ) often people (other keen dancer) asked
me a question about the way I dance, which is completely free movement hence virtually
no pattern still exactly follow and synchronizing with the Rhythm —– I needed to explain
what the Rhythm is.
Since I’ve been almost a fixture of the club, I also made enormous observation of the
people’s dance movement. Among the many funny discovery, the most interesting
phenomenon was, that some of the people dance with the song, not with rhythm beat,
therefore it looks odd and off the rhythm still, the person was not aware of it but
pretty much enjoying the dance (in fact nothing wrong with it ! )
And another discovery was that the Spanish moves a moment later than the beat. (It is
common with the Flamenco Dance, the movement occur not at the tense moment of the
beat, but the moment when its highest tension collapsed ! ! ! )
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Anyhow, to talk about the Rhythm in the noisiest environment, it’s easier to show it visual.
So, I made this Rhythm-Indicator (but only for a Rock beat) which shows the emphasis of
the 8 beat in red, amber, green, small green LEDs. And I explained, the movement what
the Rhythm demands, not what I want to move. = So, the movement was the exact reflection
of the music in each moment, not a pattern in fashion (such as in a film) or choreographed
planed movement. —– Funny things even among the keen dancer was, that they dance
what they want = regardless the different music, still repeat the same movement !
(= What is the point to have different music. 😀 )
My indicator shows 8 beat, strong, weak so on, and having BPM (speed) controller, and a
Selector for x2 and ½ speed. The Reset button was to synchronize with rhythm cycle. —– so,
in operation, reset to the first base drum, and adjust the speed to match the music =
Red LED to come coincided with every base drum of following cycle.
Voila’ the rhythm of the music was visually indicated.
—– To put the circuit and the batteries in a thin cosmetic case, I needed to curve the inside
to make a bit more space. (It was long before SMD components or Lithium battery.)
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Though, even in the same music, same song, the speed is not constant and the pattern and the
use of percussion is changing. (that’s the way to make a music more dynamic and exciting).
—– So, inevitably, I had to design more elaborated system such as automatically pick-up the
base drum and synchronize the LED to the Rhythm cycle.
But instead to develop Rhythm-Indicator Mk-II, I changed the direction to design the
Sound-reactive Disco Pendant. = It was a by-product of the Base Drum synchronizing circuit.
—– I’ll show you those Sound-reactive LED Pendant in the coming posts.
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Battery Story
Battery is an animal among the electric devices because of it is an electro-chemical device
which is using “on-going chemical reaction”inside, therefore it comes with all sorts of
unpleasant temperament. Despite their name dry-battery, they are hardly dry solid thing
but contain half wet compound. Such as a common Zinc-Carbon battery, its inside of
Zinc-can was filled with black Manganese-oxide which was wetted by the electrolytic
chemical, Ammonium-chloride, and while producing electric energy, they produce hydrogen
gas as well. (Its pressure causes leak, and it could even explode = when they explode,
popped-up cap break the battery case. ! )
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Even though the battery was evolved into Hi-tech age and instead of humble Zinc, Lithium
is in fashion, still it is the same “electro-chemical device” so that, very fancy activity of the
chemical, such as crystallization cover the electrode etc. could be happening inside etc.
Not only the product (battery) is animal, to produce it is really a messy business. This is the
reason why, most of them were produced in the country where environmental, health-safety
regulation is not strict. (Such as to refine Zinc, its process need to use Cadmium which was
washed out to the river, hence in China, Cadmium contaminated rice, food in general is the
serious but hidden problem) —– Imagine, when the battery was mas-produced, somewhere
rather low-standard factory, how about the purity of the chemical, or how minute but crucial
additive such as a rare-earth material was evenly mixed = some got more and others got non.
= It is easy to see that why each individual battery is never the same.
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The trouble of the inconsistency of the battery become really a big problem in case of
rechargeable battery, especially when it was used in numbers such as 4xAA batteries
in a camera or a flash-light.
The situation is exactly the same in case of rechargeable lithium battery-pack, of which
in most of the case, battery-pack contains 2 lithium cells. —– After ten of the charge cycles
the difference of each battery started to show-up.
In case with the 4xAA, and if you are
using a charger which is charging each
individual cell (Individual type has
4 separate LED indicators), you must be
noticed that not all of them become Full in
the same time = some of them takes longer
to be fully charged.
This is the inevitable fate of the battery =
some loose the original capacity much sooner
than others. ( So, I can say, the reliability is exactly what we have paid.
= What you can get from a set is, what the worst one gives, not their nominal capacity. :-D)
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When the battery has this character, and if you charge them all together, while roughly checking
the time such as 5 hours, 7 hours kind, or worse until they become very hot, you are destroying
them. —– When one battery lost the capacity (such as 2500mAH drop to 2000mAH) that battery
become FULL much earlier than others and became hot. Still if you didn’t noticed and keep
charging, it will be over-charged and makes that battery further deteriorate. — (So, which is the
safest way to charge them. = Use the charge current 1/10th of the Capacity x 15 hours =
If it was 2500mAH Battery —- 2500 x 1/10 = 250mA current for 15 hours. = Standard Charge ! )
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Even worse situation is, such as 4xAA were
used in an equipment, when the one which
lost the capacity became empty, its polarity
reverse (Yes, + became to – , same as you put it
wrong-way) then other batteries’ energy was
sucked by this empty battery ! —– Of cause,
it devastates that empty battery further =
in fact, kill-off. ( With the same reason, a
battery-pack of rechargeable tool never last
more than a year or two.
And when we need replacement pack, the same type may no longer in the market.
That is why the professionals only use such as Makita or DeWalt who keep selling the old type
many years. We never seen the same type again among the cheap Chinese tools.)
This worst situation may not occur in a case of latest DSLR because the camera monitor the
condition of the battery, yet still in its battery-pack, one of lithium cell has deteriorated earlier
than the other = So, when I disassembled old battery-pack which lost capacity and no longer
usable for the camera, I found the one of the cell was still usable = I reconstructed an usable
battery-pack out of 2 old packs. (Think about, it worth £50 ! —– though, I wouldn’t recommend
you to try the same. Unlike a simple battery-pack of rechargeable tool, lithium camera battery
has an additional safety device connected between two cells, hence a bit trickier to work-out,
and any mistake could cause expensive damage to the camera.)
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So that, when I buy Ni-MH battery, I buy 2 or 3 sets in the same time, and use them in rotation.
And time to time check their capacity to select best 4, which got same capacity to make a set.
To check the capacity, discharge each individual
battery through 1 ohm register and measure
the time how long it takes the voltage to drop
to o.8 V. —– But for most of the people, this
method is too awkward = So, my advice is,
Buy an “individual charge type rapid-charger”
and check the charging time, when one reached
Full, write the time on the battery, —– if the one
become Full, much faster than others, reject
that one. (It’s mean you need to keep a spare,
ready to replace with it. —– In long run, this tactics is cheaper and even if it is the second class,
there always a spare-set is in hand.) —– More easier method is = check the voltage of each
battery with Battery-checker before charge them, (Unlike an ordinary test meter, Battery
Checker measure the voltage while drawing the current, hence it shows the condition At-work)
and mark bad apple (s) and make a selection of “Good 4s” and “Bad 4s” 😀
—– Yes, battery is really a necessary evil. Unfortunately I still need them —- a lots.
——————————————-
Photo above is a battery pack which was dead. Five AAA type batteries inside,
3 were completely dead. —– Anyhow, I replaced all 5 batteries with new set.
It is possible to do like this though, I wouldn’t recommend you to do this.
—– Without a use of Spot-welder, it need to use the soldering = the heat of
soldering would melt the insulating washer and would cause chemical leak and
cause much more expensive damage to the camera than the cost of battery. 😦
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Focus-shifting Muliti-exposure Photo
Don’t worry, You don’t need to clean your specs.
It’s not your eyes. —– Photo IS fuzzy and it’s meant to be. 😉
——————- (Hey, this is a very very pretty girly picture ! = Click it and see enlarged. 😉 )
These photos were taken by a technique, Multi-Exposure with Focus-Shift.
—– In order to have an effect = a core image with out-of-focus halo around, I did
it before while camera was set on a tripod. But this time I did it by hand-held.
I guess, it could be done by Hacking into camera’s operational program and
over-drive the AF motor while the camera is giving the multiple exposure.
(Single exposure is too short to manually shift the focus. —– In the old days of
wooden camera, the old masters used the same technique to shift a focus while
giving a long exposure. And the Minolta Alpha 7000 had this effect in their
Portrait Mode to create softer image. ) —– But, I found it was not
difficult to move the focus ring during the few multiple exposure. = Just Do it,
and if not successful try it again —– success rate is somewhat one in four. 😀
(not only how far focus to be shifted, but a trouble of camera-shake is also
a spoiling factor. = If you are a bad shooter, shoot a lot — one might hit a target !)
————- (This must be a puzzling photo = where it was focused ? 😉 )
Keen reader of this blog might be realized that the post in these days were all connected
behind the scene = how camera can be steadily hand-held etc. (without having enough
practice and gained a confidence, this kind of photography would be only a waste of time.
Creativity does not occur out of blue, it needs to have a base, or incubating ground.
A practical adjustment or improvisation may suddenly conceived on the spot but
it is a minute part of the operation.
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Home-made flower :-D
It’s a middle of September, not many flower left.
—– Don’t tell me to go to a florist. I don’t buy flower or plant.
They should be where they grow. Unless I found a pot abandoned on the street.
—– (provided it’s not a meter-tall tree.) —— Then Kinetorori murmured me
“If no flower, why not make one yourself” —– It’s a his bad habit.
It’s the most un-Zen like practice though, —– I did. 😀
(Out of used envelope.)
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So, a flower is blooming in my room. (keep blooming for foreseeable future. 😀 )
Buddhists telling us “Live on the moment”
—– though, I took a way against it.
A photograph is imprisoned to the moment.
So, to have a Jailbreak of this “Moment”
I made a photo to have rather prolonged span
of time (unlike ordinary photographic norm).
The photo above consists multiple exposure
while having its focus shifted. = Yet another
attempt to create fuzzy image —– went
beyond a soft-focus lens, yet keeping a sharp core of
image, unlike a pinhole photo.
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Camera Stability Test
In the previous post, I talked about the Image Stabilizer a bit though I’m not a fan of it. Since, I haven’t seen any photo which was benefited from it so far. May be because, even without it I’m quite capable to shoot good enough picture hand-held. (even 500 mm lens !)
People may get a benefit of its Placebo effects = Peace of mind stabilizes the hand. 😀
Still, it was only “Impression from my experience” —– not from the objective comparison.
—– So, in this occasion I purposely tested it.
(but I wouldn’t say it was scientifically rigid —– Just clicked the camera as usual.) The test object was a “Pinhole-light” as you can see the photo left. = If the camera shakes, photo will clearly shows its movement at once.
I gave only one click for each speed, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30 but for Image Stabilizer (IS), further 1/15, 1/8 and 1/4 were tested —– It was free-standing hand-held though, I was using my Chest-pod. 😉
( Check the image of pinhole on the enlarged photo please)
Canon EF 200~70, F2.8 L IS lens on 5D Mk3 with IS On. From left 1/125, 1/60, 1/30. Lens zoom was set to 200 mm.
and further 1/15, 1/8, 1/4 —– even IS couldn’t save a shake on 1/4 .
The same as above but IS Off —– though, it didn’t make much difference.
Further slower speed = 1/15, 1/8, 1/4 —– 1/8 started to show a shake.
(Its horizontal movement showed, Chest-pod stops vertical shake more !) = It’s mean, IS made only one stop difference.
Tamron 500 mm F8 lens was tested on Canon 5D Mk3 on 1/125, 1/60, 1/30.
The same Tamron 500 mm was tested on Nikon D810 body, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30.
Results shows almost no difference on the different camera body.
Canon EF 70~24mm F2.8 big heavy lens was set to 50mm and tested 1/125, 1/60, 1/30.
And small Micro Nikkor 55mm F3.5 lens was tested on Canon 5D Mk3 body.
—– Different size and weight of the lens showed not much difference.
My conclusion was, as I thought before, the Image Stabilizer makes little difference, it was mare one stop. (Anyhow for 200 mm lens, hand-held 1/4 (if not 1/8) is a hopeless situation.)
So the lesson was, that if you are a good shooter, a sharp photo you made was = because you are a good shooter, not because of Image Stabilizer. And if you are a bad shooter, no Image Stabilizer will rescue you.
Those lenses are the lenses I tested with.
Some are the latest current model but 55 mm Micro Nikkor and Tamron mirror lens are more than 40 years old. —— still working perfect (optically 😉 )
And the kitchen was where I did those test shots. The shooting distance was about 2m, so, I shot them while standing here (half step forward). All from the same distance.
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