Close-up Lens on EF-Macro Lens

Well, those top two photos were taken by Canon EF Macro 100mm F2.8 Lens alone.

This Macro lens has internal focus system and it will be focused down to the life-size.

 For general macro work,  it is convenient to use though, for me,  life-size is often just

not close enough.  So that I specially made additional Proxer / Close-up lens my self.

As I detailed in the post, By using the Proxer, the Lens can close to  x2 size, and

in addition, it creates almost phenomenal out-of-focus Bokhe.

The Bokhe created by this additional lens looks almost like Air-blush Graphic work.

Still, since this Proxer was made out of the front element of a Zoom Lens, it got double

lens Achromatic construction, no Chromatic aberration was appeared and the focused

image is quite sharp, corner to corner, even when the lens aperture was fully open.

All those photos, except top two,  F-aperture was set to F2.8 and the Camera was

set to AV mode.  Auto focus does work though, as the nature of this kind of

close-up work, I used manual focus.   

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Ultra heavy Proxer — Close-up Lens from TV Zoom

Those photos were taken by Zeiss 85 mm F 1.4 lens, with my handmade Proxer was

attached to it.  The Proxer = Close-up lens was  in fact, a front element of a Canon

TV-Zoom lens which I’ve cannibalized from a broken lens.  (hence cost nothing  😉 )

As the original lens was a very expensive TV  lens,  it has a very high-quality

Achromatic lens.  ( Even ED glass may have used in its construction.)

In most of the case, it is not very difficult to disassemble the lens —– in this case,

after unscrew 14 small screws, the front Lens was disengaged from its focusing helicoid.

—– then it was glued to a 67 mm filter ring.  (filter glass was removed beforehand)  

Front-element of this lens works as a close-up lens, hence with 85 mm lens it act like

a life-size Macro converter.  —– And with large 1.4 F-aperture, it gives very shallow

depth of field. (and very big Bokhe ! — Still, the focused image itself is quite sharp ! )

——(Metric ruler was shot in 45 degree.  Left: F1.4  /  Center: F2.8  /   Right: F5.6)

Though, this 3 cm thick solid glass in a solid metal helicoid is really heavy, almost

the same weight of 85 mm lens itself.   😀 

(The photo above :  Left was taken F1.4,    but Right photo was F5.6 )

(In those photos, look at how the single hair of fluff was captured on F 1.4  

= Please click and enlarge twice)

As you can see from the photos above, off-focused Bokhe is a bit too much for

most of the people’s taste though, that is what I’ve been after.

(This effect couldn’t be mimicked by PS ! ) 

—– to get this effect, I tried many Soft Focus lenses, Filters, Pinhole Photo,

Double-density Pinhole, even Double Focus in Double exposure.  

But there is no sharp core in a Pinhole photo, and the Double exposure has

the trouble to keep the subject exactly in the same position etc etc.  

= After many many years of attempt,  now I think, I got what I wanted.  

Only a problem is, this TV-Zoom Proxer gives only life-size close-up image.  

May be I need to find another lens which got longer focal length.  😀

Still, it’s a start.

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Ultra Proxer — Recycled from Old zoom lens

Proxer is an old name to call Close-up lens which attach on front of the lens.  

The lens I’m talking here is a front lens element  I’ve scavenged from an old zoom lens 85~210 mm F 3.8,  sold under many different names —– the photo was in the previous post (first photo, Front lens was near the left end).

Most of the close-up lens consist simple convex, single meniscus lens mounted on a filter frame.   Same idea to put a magnifier before camera lens and take close-up  photo.  It was convenient to have a small adapter lens to take closer picture, as in the old days there was no such things like a macro setting on the Primary lens (Standard lens).  

—– To make a high-performance Proxer,  I did some cut and bonding works with epoxy glue, which was worthwhile to create a treasure out of junk.  🙂 

Photo left :  Don’t hesitate to hack-saw a lens barrel.  Once disassembled and the glass was removed, even a precision optical device, is a piece of metal.   = What it used to be is only in your mind.  On this moment you are dealing the work to create something new.  What required here is a careful but very simple and boring push and pull work.  😀  

Center photo :  To the front lens, hack-sawed front barrel (which got 58mm  filter screw )  was screwed back and a filter ring was bonded to its rear side with epoxy glue.  

Photo right :  The finished close-up lend was attached on the front of the Canon EF 100 mm  Macro lens, which also has  58 mm filter size.

You might be wondering,  while having macro lens already, and having a skill to use the lens in reverse etc.  = all sorts of close-up trick, why do I need to have yet  another close-up lens. —– well, all of my Macro lenses were down to the life-size, in other words, they take a picture of  36mm x 24mm is the closest.  I simply wanted to close a bit more.  (My attention tend to go rather small things.  🙂 )

—– And a real intention was to have much more exaggerated out of focus Bokhe.  (I’m tired with clear images which is everywhere and too easy to come by today.)     

Photo left :   With this close-up lens, when the master lens,  100 mm Macro lens was set to the infinity,   a small dole (36 mm tall) looks like this. (taken F 2.8)

Center Photo :  With close-up lens, when the Master Macro lens was set to the life-size, it produces  x2 larger image (dole’s head is 10mm).   Have look the Bokhe in F 2.8 = max open).  (This Bokhe is quite close to the Olympus Zuiko 50 mm F 2 Macro lens ! )  

Photo right :  A small beetle who happen to came to my room (it’s too hot these days,  the window was fully open) this photo was taken with a bounced flash-light with F 11.

Unlike most of the Proxer, this home-made close-up lens has double lens chromatic structure,  and fully coated. = Think, a cost of common cheap Proxer, and a Front lens which is the most crucial part of the lens structure in a  zoom lens.  

= Difference of quality is obvious.     As you can see it in those sample photos.  

A photo of a moth parched on the wall in my room, taken by EF 100 mm Macro with the handmade Proxer. = With F 2.8 the depth of focus is really shallow still, in the focused area, the image is very sharp.

This is a test shot of the screen of a Tablet (a photo of my umbrella).  This close-up lens maintained very high quality of the image = Very even, corner to corner.  And this is at F 2.8 ! (See details, by click it, and again)

Left photo is Macro lens alone and about  1/2 size.   Right photo is, with close-up lens but Master lens was set to Infinity.   Hence this combination can take photo from infinity to  1/1  and with this Proxer to  x2.  (By the way, Canon 5D mk-III has dreadful red-color cast when ISO was set to 6400.   In AWB and in any setting.  Though, at  ISO 100 much better.  = See the photos below)

(Photo left :  5D but Mk-II.   Photo Right :  The ISO setting was  100  = Much better !)(Those are hand-held photos = only for Color reference.)  To be fair,  I show you the photos by Nikon D810’s color  in similar setting.

(Photo Left :  Nikon D810 — ISO 3600    Photo Right :  Same but ISO 100   Both with Micro Nikkor 55mm F3.5 — 1/2 )

Higher ISO setting mean, very low out-put of image sensor has to be amplified electronically to its limit.    While amplifying to such extent, still linearity has to be maintained, while the out-put of each BGR may not having exactly the same character.

= Can of warm is opened.  🙂   In the same time, higher amplification also amplify the noise as well.  

—– I admire and praise  the people who managed it and brought the benefit of very high ISO setting even if it was not (yet) perfect.

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Junk Lens — How to recycle ?

After digital revolution,  analogue age old lenses become almost a junk. 

Simply,  the camera  and the lens today are too different from their predecessor.

As the lens has to work with the camera which got so many functions therefore

the lens also needs to function such as auto focus, electronically position controlled

F-aperture, distance-coded focus not mention high zoom ratio, of which the zoom

position was also electronically coded. (Those code were used to control Flash-light)

= In order to deal with all those electronics, the lens having its own microchip and

able to communicate with camera’s main CPU.  

Without having those electronics, lens couldn’t be used on the camera —– except 

Canon EOS   (It can take any lens include a Pinhole in AV-Mode,  of course with

manual mode as well.  — But,  Nikon couldn’t make even a single image out of pinhole,  

without giving quite  complicated procedure to set-up the camera side. )  

Though, don’t misunderstand,  even today,  the optics is still optics, it works on the 

same principal,  hence  if you get a convex lens and concave lens scavenged out of old

camera lens, it would make a telescope for a kids to experiment.  Or use them to project

an image or focus LED light etc etc. 

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The lens design has also changed a lot such as the use of aspherical lens  (in fact most

of them are a so-called Compound lens,  aspherically moulded plastic was stacked on

a glass lens) —– nevertheless, I admit, today’s lens is very well designed in deed.

(Though, why they became so big and heavy ? — considering, how compact camera

became so small and light, while able to take more or less the same picture.    😀 ) 

In those aspects,  may be there is no point to give a damn to the old lens though, still,

such as  F-aperture diaphragm has changed almost nothing (only driving mechanism

may have changed to motor etc.   And the front lens is still, good achromatic lens.  

Not mention the focusing helicoid which is impossible to make by ourselves,  still

having lots of use, not only in the photography.

= We can scavenge a lots out of such old lens.  —– As a matter of fact, good old 

non-plastic lens is far easier to disassemble and Re-use.   (Plastic built lenses were

NOT designed to be serviced as they were built by snap fit or heat-weld.)  

(Lens above is a Canon TV lens, it must had a price of many thousands of pounds. )

The best thing is,  we can find those old lens in a camera shop’s junk box,

with a price of couple of pounds, if not free. 

 To disassemble those lens, there may not need to have more than small

+ AND – screw drivers.  (but need to use the brain a lot = it is a puzzling game) 

In coming posts, I’ll show you what I’m going to do with those “Components”

saved from old lens.

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Heavy Assignment — Winding Grip for Hasselblad

When I mentioned my “One hand Shooting” somebody accused me saying that I’m

bluffing such as Hasselbrad couldn’t be used by one hand. —– On that post, I didn’t

go into the details as the post was talking about the flash-light.  

Well, the photo above is the set-up of my “Mid grade shooting”. (I used to make a

joke  “Photo job is just like a set menu = ingredients and the price is accordingly,  

(in Japanese expression, 松, 竹, 梅 定食 / Pine, Bamboo, Plum set).  Pine set uses

either 5″x4″ or Pentax 6×7  with two or three studio flashes, heaviest tripod and an

assistant, therefore the charge would be in the order of thousand+,  Plum set would

be hand-held Pentax 6×7 or 6×6 Hasselblad with may be two lenses. (it depends —)   

Bamboo set is by 35mm camera with Agfa Flash-light — still with umbrella.    🙂

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I’ve been using my Hasselblad with modified winding grip.  Hence, right hand alone

can wind and click the camera.  Left hand having the flash though, this flash (with

umbrella) can be instantly joined to the camera bracket hence free the left hand to

adjust the focus, or with the aid of focusing handle, even right-hand holding the grip, 

stretched finger can easily adjust the focus.  (Shutter speed and F-setting will

be done on the beginning as the flash has an auto control, and the lighting in the

room or in the event is more or less constant )

—– Once get used, there was no problem.

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 This winding grip was originally for the Bronica camera and I modified it for

Hasselblad.  (in order to couple with grip’s mechanism,  wind-up nob of Hasselblad

was also modified)  

And in the photo, the Prism Finder which looks a bit odd, was originally for Cowa SIX

camera. (I put Flash-light Ready-indicator to this Prism Finder through Hot-Shoe as

well —– click a camera before the flash-light was ready, and loose one frame is not

a joke, considering 120-6×6 film gives only 12 frames / 220 Film gives 24 frames )

——– (Photo above :  Olympus T45 with 70cm Umbrella to use on a light-stand)

—– As long as it works reliably, it is enough for my use.   Cosmetics is out of scope.

Though, to use a camera in such arrangement  (Flash-light is Olympus T45, the most

powerful and quick-charged flush then) is literally deadly heavy to the hand. 

= It was a price to pay for the quality, but it also justify the charge.  (Trouble of the boss

in the Japanese companies are, they themselves got pretty expensive camera such as

top Nikon or Leica, still they never seen the monster like this = it makes them to

convince that the professional is totally different,  and to pay for its quality.)  😀

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To put some effort to make everyday’s work more comfortable and to improve the

quality, it is what Buddhist calls  [Mindfulness]  to be a life in photographer.  

And those modification work, by hand-tool is a bit by bit work, rather simple manual

work = typical Zen Buddhist’s practice.     So, I would say, it’s better than to spend the

time than to watch useless TV program (anyhow I don’t have a TV  🙂 ) or drinking in

a Pub (neither I drink alcohol or fizzy drink).  = This is the Zen attitude to the life.

Still, I wouldn’t say I’ve achieved something much more than watching TV though,

for me it was a better fun, actually able to see a tangible results.   😉

—– By the way, this Hasselblad was internally half modified, hence I couldn’t sell,

since remained in my hand, together with an EL Body, 250mm lens and 5 of 70mm

film-magazines etc. which nobody wanted to buy — now I got nice antic collection,

starting from Red bellows Kodak Folding No.1 etc, hundred of the antic cameras.  😀

—– it’s mean, some Zennist still got bad habit = collecting junks !  —– I think, to pay

respect to the inventor of each cameras and to guess how those people found the

way to design, and its thinking process  is a very interesting mind-game. 

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Flying Angel — Wire Figure

This is my Angel,  yet another wire-figure I made on 2007.  (So, those photos were

taken by that old Kodak camera, and the photos were clopped —- hence, pretty low

quality photos)  But not PSed, the figure was really in the air (hanged from the tree).

When I brought this to a gathering of Dorkbot, the figure made a well known artist

Anne Bean, frozen 5 min—– ( I was frightened, such good artist can memorize all the

structure and able to make identical copy  🙂 )  

Strangely you may found, this lady has no neck.   Her right hand holding the head.  🙂

Wire used was  1.6mm garden wire,  and I was planned to make it x5 size, it’s mean

life-size,  by 8mm copper tube though, I realized that, if I made this in my room,

I can’t take it out  😀

—– One day, when I got big studio, I’ll do it (though, seemingly never happen  😀 )

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Development of Foetus

Well, I meant not a baby but wire-Figure in Foetus Posture. 

Unlike a body posture spreading limbs, Foetus posture might be more awkward to

make sense, because it might become just like a pill of wire.  —– So, I tested how it

could be made simple and still convincingly looks like a human-figure.  — The first

study above was made its back and the legs separately, so each did look “likely” shape.

(I found, in Foetus posture, it doesn’t need to have a head —- We think head was

buried between the shoulder.   🙂 )

Then, the second attempt was how to reconcile the joint of upper-body and the legs.

—– This one was not successful or smart enough though.

The head was accommodated in the third model.

Looks not yet streamlined enough —– though,

so far this is the final piece called Foetus.

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Handmade Flash System (2) — Light Bender

As a matter of fact, this is my first Digital Camera. It was a broken Kodak DC215 Digital Zoom camera

which was given by my friend as its battery chamber has been smashed.

So, he gave it for me to play with. Lens was x2 zoom (29~58mm equiv) and Image sensor was 1.5 MP.

( In today’s standard, it is a toy camera level though, 10 years ago, it was rather expensive good

camera 😉 )      Since the camera has been dropped and a corner of it has been smashed, I was not

sure whether it was repairable even if I get spare parts from Kodak. Still, with internal check, the

suspension mechanism of Zoom and Focus was not broken, I tested it with external power supply

—– it was functioning !    So that, not just repair the battery chamber, instead, I made an

additional battery housing attached to the bottom of the camera to use it with

5 rechargeable batteries. (Originally, 1.5V x 4 = 6V —-> 1.2V x 5).

Camera has its built-in Flash and it was working though, as I wrote before, I don’t like this kind of

direct flash lighting.    So that, I made a Light reflecting adapter to bend the light upward.

Then with a hand held white paper this light was reflected again toward the subject

therefore able to create more natural lighting with soft shadow. (photos below)

(Left: By camera’s built-in Flash.   Center: with the reflecting adapter and a paper.  

Right: (the same)—- the difference is obvious. (This is what the Photography is)

To have a modification of existing flash system, there could be tens of different approaches,

each having pros and cons.    Without a heavy internal modification, put a cover on the existing

flash with light sensor to trigger another flash-light is a viable alternative.  —– In fact, you can

test a small reflector like this, Just use a small piece of  baking-foil, stacked 45 degree on front of

your camera’s flash.  —– If you got a camera, which is no longer in use, why not to try.

There isn’t much mystery in the camera design, if it was designed by a human-being,

why not possible to modified by others.   Just do it.   It’s a fun.   :-)

And it would be a start of ACTIVE creative photography to play with light  !    

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Don’t Think -vs- Think yourself

Almost crèche like joke among the Zennist is this contradiction.

Think yourself yet still Don’t think. Well, here is a typical sample.

This is an Electronic multi-meter, and the matter here is its cables. Some of you might think

“What the matter to fuss about such trivial things” and you may say “Anyhow, when we use next time,

we need to loose the cables anyway. Why bother to tidying up each time ?” —– still in the same time,

you may remember the past trouble of entangled cables with other wire. And when the cable was left

loose on the work bench, you may needed to un-entangle them while wasting the time which was

always in the busiest moment.    And in the worst situation, try to pull the cable out, then it was broken,

and in such moment you don’t have a spare. In any account, it is better to keep the cable tidy.

No one can argue or think otherwise.

Not told by others, what you thought and convinced by yourself,

its understanding stays for ever.

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This is the end of argument and the THINKING process.     Once you were convinced,

just DO IT in practice.   (—– only an obstacle is your laziness. 🙂

But, if you a person, aiming better, you will DO IT.   Why not.   This is THE ZEN.)

—– in practice, once you made it as a habit = after use, always just put the cable back to round

the meter and tie it up with the tape. (to make it like in the photo ! )

It is a simple practice hence, no-one need to think or use the brain to do it.

—– the hand will do it automatically as a habit. = When everything are tidy, there

wouldn’t be any havoc on the work. —– This is how “Peace of mind” comes from. 🙂

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Lord Buddha’s teachings are all for gaining the NO SELF, and MUSHIN state of mind.

To be in this state, everything has to be left to the subconscious hence NO conscious thinking there.

Because of this, he showed how he does it and made the followers to copy, or gave an instruction

what to DO.    But never explained why, or what was the intention. Simply because, if it was

explained, the person remember the word, then an action become “an action according to the word”

= stuck to its notion / Thinking.

This is the reason why, if you think, Sitting is for a practice of Mushin, you are wrong.

If you sit, just sit. = If you settle your bottom on the floor, that is what sitting is. You don’t need any

thinking. —– In fact, it doesn’t matter, whether you are standing or walking.

= Just let the body to DO, stand or walk.

Without your thinking, your body knows everything how to keep balance while sitting or walking

whatsoever.   This automatic, inherent perfect control was seen as the Dharma.

(Hence, the Dharma is in you !)

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Then, what you can see or find in the state of absolute Selfless, Mushin —– So far,

NO clear description was ever elucidated by anyone.

Just say, the state of Panya Paramita. —– there might be NOTING.

Or, this Nothing may be the ultimate wisdom what human being can ever get.

So to say, the Dharma is everything, in the same time it is nothing = VOID.

(If you think, it is a matter for you.—– But, if you don’t think, there is no issue here. 😀 😀 )

How great, Zen is. — don’t you agree ? Ha ha ha. 😀

___/\___

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Handmade Flash System (1) — Flash with Umbrella

Among my flash system, this is the one I’ve been using the most.

Most (not exactly all) of the photos of table-top shot kind in this blog such as

cooking samples has been photographed using this flash system.

And some party shot such as Capricorn Party was shot by this as well.

The base of this system is an Agfa 383CS flash-light (but actually it was made by Japanese Nisshin)

which takes SCA300 camera interface adapter (so, I used to use the adapter for Nikon, Canon, Contax

etc etc. for TTL compatible type, AF compatible type etc etc.) though, as the camera evolved so rapidly

and their control system became too complicated, hence, those system became obsolete in mid 80s.

—– still, this flash itself has External Auto as well, and of cause the full out-put manual and minimal

(somewhat 1/20^th) for rapid fire.    And on top of this, it got additional front flash to give

“Catch-light in Eyes” when used with bounce-light !

The rotating head has rotating diffuser as well which spread the light coverage from 35mm lens to

24mm lens. —– Almost everything what most of the user needs.

(As far as I know, this is the most well thought-out flash, ever made.

And after nearly 30 years use, it is still in full working order = its reliability is remarkable ! )

But, unless the subjects are more than 5m away, to take picture with a straight

flash-light mounted on camera —– is what I don’t do.    If a light was placed next to

the eyes, similar to Head-lamp, there will be no shadow on the subject.

It is the most unnatural lighting. —– For the most of the subject I needed to work with,

(think, a portrait kind in an interview situation, or to capture a dining scene in a restaurant) is

about 1~2m distance.    Other shot such as whole room, restaurant, shop etc will be covered by

another more powerful flash(s) or even studio type flash-light placed somewhere in the side.

Therefore, to photograph the subject in talking-distance, I modified my flash-light

to take an umbrella reflector.

Thence, I could create a photo, looks more natural 45 degree lighting, top lighting etc

with just a swing of my hand —– it’s mean, to operate the camera by right hand only = (before

camera was fully automatised with Auto-focus, it was a bit of special skill. —- think about, such as

Pentax 6×7 or Hasselbrad in one-hand operation with almost studio quality lighting, without the

cost of assistant. 😀 —– and that was how I nearly monopolized Japanese business here.   😉 )

The modification of the flash-light was just done by a simple cut and put-together

aluminium piece kind of work which you can see from the photos.

—– May be the most peculiar part must be the Umbrella.

This is the umbrella only one in the world = specially hand made by a craftsman who has been

making studio flash umbrella for such as Kishin Shinoyama etc.     The craftsman had happened to

have his family business, selling and repairing the umbrella in Roppongi of  Tokyo, where many

photo-studio situated.     Since the photographer who brought back an umbrella from the west asked

him to repair or even to make the same, he became the only Craftsman catering those needs in Tokyo.

For him, my requirement to make such small (diameter 50cm) umbrella was, of cause first ever

funny request.    Nevertheless, I got the one what I wanted = literally pocket size Umbrella.  😀

(You may find 70cm size which is using child umbrella frame) —– (In fact, I’ve experimented to

make small one, such as using only half of collapsible umbrella or toy umbrella etc.)

—– the reason is obvious, if you got to move around with umbrella, it catch or hit anything =

the smaller the better though, if it is too small, it wouldn’t work as a diffuser.

The size has to be the same size of the spread of light from flash in its distance. )

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Most of the Umbrella adopter for a small Flash, fix the umbrella  facing straight to the flash.

My design aiming the flash from the bottom, hence some light escape from the umbrella still,

the light intensity is only 2 F-stop drop.  Considering the diffused ligh covering

almost Fish-eye lens, the efficiency is not too bad at all !

(In fact the escaped light is bounced back from the ceiling, also contribute some good effect  🙂 )

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With the age of very advanced DSLR, which got ISO speed even 25,000,  it is easy to produce

the photo only with available light and it looks natural of cause.  But in the other hand the skill

to manipulate the image, intentionally hide something in the dark, kind is all left to

the after process of PS.  Though the trouble is, PS often looks too unnatural.

Resorting natural light still end-up unnatural image is not very funny. 😀

Because of the shadow, we know the significance and the meaning of the Light.

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