Good Lens or Cheap Lens

Some regular reader may remember, this lens has appeared here before.

But if you look inside, you may noticed that this one doesn’t have shiny

blue beer can.  = In deed, the front lens is the same though, the panel, and

the pinhole inside is different.  I did swap the panel to single pinhole hence,

it still has semi-fisheye wide angle view but the image doesn’t have a

hallasion created by the Double Density Pinhole.

The front lens came from an ubiquitous cheap Fish-eye Adapter, therefore,

giving fish-eye like distortion and wide-angle view, but being as low cost =

single lens structure showing the Chromatic Aberration.  = Part enlarged

bright-spot of Photo above, rainbow effect is quite visible.

Theory was the same = ” Place a strong concave lens before Pinhole would

creates [Wide angle Pinhole Image]” and this one has a concave lens from a

Canon Zoom Lens. = which is in deed the front element of the same lens I’ve

experimented with its rear element in the previous post.  

And I put the same Double-Density Pinhole panel behind of this lens.

This Canon’s Zoom was EFS type 18~55 mm hence, it was a kind of

medium wide-angle, so that even a front element concave lens was not too

strong = giving modest wide view.  (Though, still having quite a distortion.)

Yet still, the lens carrying the quality of the Canon = this front element

has an Achromatic design = no Chromatic aberration was visible. 

So that, thanks to this high quality Diopt-Pinhole Photo System, on a

full-frame 5D Mk-III camera, I can take high-quality Fuzzy image !

(I’m serious, believe me.   Ha ha ha  😀  😀  )

———————–

IN ADDITION:  This is the front element from a Sigma Zoom Lens.

Lens came from a friend of my friend who gave-up to repair the lens.

(The person managed to disassemble though, couldn’t put it back.)

It seems Sigma was used all sorts of clever tricks to produce the lens

“Reasonable”= not superb, still good enough, light and small, and

most importantly, not expensive for the people of this class.

The front lens seems to be plastic = easy to be scratched (Photo Left)

and the Photo Right shows funny reflection = this is an “Aspherical Lens “. 

You may have a fancy illusion toward the Aspherical Lens. = Yes, Aspherical

lens can give superb optical quality though, these days, it was used as a

magic bullet to save a cost !  (Instead to use many heavy and expensive

Grass, just one plastic Aspherical Lens could eliminates the aberration.)  

Because, Aspherical lens is no longer difficult to make nor expensive.

= Computer give the design and the laser curving can make a precise

die-cast, then the rest would be just a plastic mass-production work. 

As a rather ordinary  x3  Zoom, the strength of the front Concave lens is

similar to the Canon’s Zoom shown before.   The front element consists

two lenses hence it supposed to be an Achromatic design —– though

photo above shows the Chromatic Aberration. (See the rainbow color.)

(of cause, it might be corrected together with the rear element.)

And I put a single pinhole behind of this lens.

[]

Junk as a Macro lens

Camera lens is the optics = even if it was broken and ended-up in a bin,

lens can still function as an optics.  Convex lens can project an image.  

This lens was a Canon zoom lens which I got free from a camera shop.

Top left of the photo above, is the rear group of the Zoom lens which function 

as a convex lens to project the image.  Convex lens mean, it will work as a

magnifying lens and in reversed direction, it could be a good macro lens.

—– for a fun, I tested this lens unit to take macro photo.

(on the photo, you can see a L-shaped plastic bar on the lens-unit, there were

three of those which held the lens unit in the position though, such flimsy

plastic couldn’t survive a shock and easily broken but impossible to repair, it

was the end of the life ! — replace whole unit may cost half of the lens price.) 

For macro photo, lens unit was stacked on a mount adapter ring using sticky

plastic-pate, and it was mounted on

Canon 5D through 2 sets of Extension

tube. (total extension was 125mm) 

—– After few shots, I found the

sharpness wasn’t good enough,  

so that, I closed the Iris somewhere

half-way. (Photo left)  

This Aperture / Iris  has a

stepping motor built inside

= So, I’m going to make electronic circuit to drive it. 

And, this is how the photo was taken while using a small flash-light.

The photo wasn’t too bad —– considering the lens came from a bin.  😀

This lens unit act like a 38 mm lens, so that it can produce about  x5 macro

image on this extension.   The photo above was a clopped part-enlargement.

(effectively,  x10 magnification = 3.6 mm object was on the 36 mm frame)

Originally, this was a rear half of the good zoom lens. —– Think about, it

is a magnifying glass of £100 cost = it got to be high quality !

[]

Parts Box ?

To make, modify or repair something etc. what ever to do, it’s always need

to have all sorts of components or parts. —– strange urban myth was that

I’m a kind of professional, so, I have a professional class storage / drawer

box to sort the components.  And people are believing that I got a workshop.  

Wrong !   I’m a non of professional.  Therefore, I’m keeping the components in

the most unprofessional way.

= My storage box for the parts is “plastic Ice-cube tray” used in a fridge. = This is

the most compact and convenient way to keep the small parts in order.

(And cost virtually nothing.  🙂 )

Even just the screw, there are many different sizes, starting from  1mm~.  

About the same size but old  1/8″ doesn’t match to metric 3mm screw.  

So, they has to be kept separates, ETC, ETC !

Situation is far worse in the electronic front. —– if I got to store everything,

I need to have a space, size of a shop.  

So, I keep the items handy I most likely to use, in the Ice-cube Tray.   

I don’t remember when I got this and started to use. —– I might have

brought those from Japan = it’s mean, I’m using this, past  40 years !

For me, the matter is its function.  = as long as it fulfils my needs, that’s enough.  

And, even more crucial matter is  “What I do with those components”.

Parts are just a matterial.  Part wouldn’t creates anything. = Thousands tons of 

cement is not a building.   And the beautiful way to pile-up the cement neither

form a building. —– Building would be counted when it was elected.

So does the component here, when it became a part of a finished product,

it would be counted as a meaningful existence.  (but thousands end-up in a bin)

[]

Small Repair

In our daily life situation, when

something break down and need to

be repaired, in most of the case it is 

a loose screw or loose connection

kind of very simple fault.

In certain extent, it is true that the

everything break and lost = natural

were ant tear surely eat away its life

though, in the same time if we pay 

reasonable attention such as to give an oil or tighten the screws etc, the things

can last quite long time.  Like my Electric Kettle, it is more than 30 years old.  

In fact, there is little possibility of a Kettle to break down unless switch

it on without a water thence either whole Kettle melted down or burn-out the

heater element.   It’s mean, if we do “Always put only necessary amount of

fresh water and boil” = Kettle was designed to last for ever in this condition.

[]

But a kind of machine which has a motor inside, its vibration often cause a

break down.  The worst was the worn-out of the motor bearing (due to a rack

of care = dust,  and rack of oiling) otherwise,  a component became loose.

Photo on the top is a control board of a motor tool in which you can see an

exploded component called Triac.

The vibration caused a component to come loose and caused a short circuit.

The damaged parts was visible and the repair was simply to replace and fix them. 

The photo above is a control board of a back-up battery power supply.  

Right side in the left photo, you can see a yellowish box shaped component

was burnt and exploded.  From the shape and the size, it’s easy to see that it

was the same one in the left side, which said 100mF = It was a capacitor.

Remove the damaged one and test with equivalent component, if the whole

unit works (it’s mean no other component has been damaged), it’s the repair.

In this very case, the damaged capacitor was replaced by the equivalent

capacitor (in the photo right). —– But, if no obvious damage was seen, then

complicated trace and analysis game starts.  It’s mean, this  is not a small or 

simple repair. —– Some time it was called nightmare and often

it is cheaper to buy new one.  😀

][

Electronics in the Lens

Lens of today’s hi-tech DSLR was connected to the camera body

on its bottom, mechanically and electronically.

Except the Canon EF Lens (for EOS), the Aperture lever has to be

pushed from the camera side, therefore when the lens was used in

rivers direction, either the Lens become completely manual (if the 

Aperture ring was still there) or just out of control. — But Canon’s EF

lens has its own stepping motor to drive the Aperture, hence as long as

they are electronically connected, the Aperture will function as normal.

(If not connected, there is no way else to use Aperture but fully open.)  

To have an electronic connection, we only need a simple cable !  

So, I made this adapter, long time ago, in fact soon after the Canon

introduced their EOS camera. ( yet, it was a film camera then.)

—– the connection between the camera and a lens was made by two

sets of male and female contacts. = I made and mounted them on

a Body-cap and a Lens-rear-cap,  and jointed them with a cable !  

= With this cable, even when a lens was held in angle, still the

lens function like as normal.

I could use this on EOS 620 and RT with EF 28 mm lens for

experimental close-up with tilted lens etc —– though, few days

ago, when I tested this again, with my latest Canon gear, 

I found, 5D camera refused to work with this.  😀  😀

[]

On the appearance, it was just an 8p connections and two of them

were the ground line, and the signal lines for each direction =

only 5 lines seems to be used though, as long as all 8 lines were

connected one-by-one there should be OK, other than the trouble of

impedance or magnetic interference kind, caused by an extended wires.     

(Those interference might be used to detect unauthorized connection.

And if anything odd was detected, Camera CPU may check the Lens’ ID.

—– If no answer was received, then camera stop to work normal.  🙂 )

[]

These days, the lens transmit their own ID for their own graphic program

to correct the individual characteristics of the lens, such as the aberration

or corner fall-off of the light.  = To correct the Chromatic Aberration,

Red signal from the Pixels would be shifted inward and Blue signal would be

shifted outward accordingly ! (So, the picture become even sharper !  😀 )

Though, I’m not necessary happy with this kind of approach —– once we

start to rely on computer graphics, we may no longer need to have such as

ultra wide angle lens or fisheye-lens, as we can get the same effect by

stitching the photos or use distorting graphic effect or “filters”.

Graphic design is a desc top process, it is not a photography on the spot.

Photography is a Site-specific, Moment-bound “interaction”

not just a visual effect.

= What “I” witnessed and how I lived with its moment  IS  the matter.

If the artefact left was a fake, the person and the life was a fake. 

[]

At a moment, I’m quite amazed how  Canon 5D  could detect

“something odd” about this cable, and teasing me while showing

photo-number [50] in the view finder, instead of [950] on the

camera top,  and not showing “Focused” indicator  etc.

—– not malfunction but maliciously falsified on purpose.  😀

(It takes time to debag and hack-into the camera. )

[]

Deptford — Art or Odd ?

In south-east London, just before the Thames River reaches to Greenwich,

it is the Deptford.  Unlike the posh Greenwich, this part of Lewisham is

rather poor area = hence lots of artists (I guess, rather poor artists) are

living in this area =  And it creating very distinctive atmosphere here

though, I wouldn’t necessary say it is artistic, but definitely it is odd.  🙂

Next to the Deptford open market, the Albany Theatre is

one of the center of the Community Art activity.

But half of the market is a Flea Market = or some might say junk heap.

Therefore, to distinguish Deptford’s  “distinctiveness” = whether it is

art or junk is a difficult task.  😀  Photo above left is — can you guess,

it’s a tattoo shop !

The area having quite a number of Vietnamese population hence

many Chinese-Vietnamese restaurant as well. 

And number of Charity shops (or junk shop). —– Important point is,

they were sold to the grown-ups, not to the children.

On the table, Permanent flower in a glass jar = What a great idea !

—– I’m wondering, who got a courage to cut a hair there ?

—– or the population here loves a joke so much ?

And so-called Laughing Buddha (Chinese Putai = Taoism figure, nothing

to do with Buddhism) must be a warning of obese in the restaurant.  🙂 

They are the Wedding cake kind ! = What a fantastic idea again !

So, where ever you go, ART (sort) is everywhere.

This is what Deptford is !

(Photo Right is, the entrance to the Site-office of construction site !

= not a joke ! )

[]

Mind-set of the Medallist

Now the news from Sochi Winter Olympic is the regular feature in the media.

So, naturally I read quite number of the words from the Medallists “How he

(or she) came to this point”. Such as the one from the first Gold Medallist

of Japan, Yuzuru Hanyu (羽生結弦) the Figure Skater.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoqHZH6KE1c

—– (Unfortunately I couldn’t find a proper video from Sochi in Youtube =

most of them are either old clips or the clip only using his name with

crap contents. = this one from last year’s competition.)

Yuzuru grown up in Sendai, Japan the place received that earthquake and

tsunami few years ago. So, even he had a part of the same fate, couldn’t

practice for 6 months, as a local ice-rink was destroyed, on top of all sorts

of life’s ups and downs. —– still, in his word on an interview, he said

“On the end I came to the point to realize that I couldn’t be anybody

more than myself or anybody less than myself, and understood, there

couldn’t be anything else but to go the life to be a skater.”

= No pretence of special pride carrying the top name or the feeling carrying

the duty to the country.   (Yet still, when he won, he carried Japanese Flag

on his shoulder. = He was thank-full to the people who supported him

back in Japan. —– He was a nice 19 years old boy !)

[]

This is in fact quite common feeling among the athletes who became

top medallist. = Non boasted the words like “I came to the Olympic to win

for my country”—– but “Just did my best and it happened to be an Olympic”.

[]

It is a common misconception = “To achieve such highest goal, it must need

to have highest concentration of the Will and the strong Mindset”.

—– strangely you might think, the stronger the will or higher the aim or

desire kind, it fails to achieve the goal. —– We human was not designed to

withstand to maintain such hard will, and our fate is not providing plain

sailing. = The higher the aim, the stronger the disappointment when the ship

hit an obstacle, then the person brake down.

[]

Athletes compete physical game though, it is in fact a very heavy mental game.

Minute fear or negative doubt would hinder the moment of judgement.

After thousands, tens of thousands of practices, the body got accustomed to

perform routine = let the body to perform.  = No “Will, Aim, Pride, Pretence,

Desire, Show-off, Sense of Obligation, Duty, Fear, Doubt, Arrogance or Shame”

= in other words ANY MIND was not required here.  = Just Do it.

Any how, in the moment when the athlete is competing, there couldn’t be

a margin to haggle any thought.

—– ? ? ? —– Don’t you think it’s sound familiar ?

Yes. This is exactly the same mental state to Mushin and Ichijo of the Zen.

Or, the Selflessness of the Buddhism. —– are they Buddhist ?  Not necessary.

[]

Lord Buddha’s teachings = Buddhism, was the wisdom learned from the

human nature, and been applied to the general aspects of the life.

Wisdom in the human nature which was prevailed in the process of extreme

practice was in fact the wisdom held by the universe = Rules of the Universe,

which is in the Buddhist’s term Dharma.

[]

And the contemplation those athletes has gained, is nothing but

their Enlightenment = Being nobody else of the Self, who is in fact Selfless.

= This selflessness is in deed, the Dharma.

___/\___

[]   

Pinhole Portrait Picture

Some one might say, they looks like the photos of the earliest (100 KP)

digital camera. —– Oh, com’n they were created by a pretty expensive DSLR  

5D, Mk-III you know how much the cost !

(Taken at the Wednesday Workshop in Greenwich) 

And the others might say  “What a waste of time” = Hours of days of work,

and created this ? —– What for ? ? ?   Oh, com’n what’s wrong with you ?

I wanted to show = to be a portrait, what’s the minimum the picture

need to have — or other words, “Enough” to describe the person.  🙂

In fact, it was the same one = Semi-Fisheye,  Diopt-Pinhole Hybrid,  

Double-density Pinhole. Very very sophisticated Posh system, you know ? 

Ha ha ha   😀

[]

Catkins on Alder Tree

Few days ago, I gave a peek to a broken Sony DSLR lens through Canon 5D

and saw it still works as a  200 mm optics.  —– then, I realized, what I saw

was not just a shape of a winter tree.  —– It’s Catkins there already !

With a serious attempt, I took picture of it with 500 mm lens on a tripod.

Yes, in deed it was the Catkins. = Without having any serious cold spell,

London started to have a Spring. —– I wouldn’t say I like cold but,

I believe the nature needs it as a cycle. 

The lens I was playing was the one I bought for £10 as a broken junk =

Sony-Minolta’s 18-200 mm Zoom lens, which has been seemingly dropped

and the barrel was broken into pieces. —– Still, amazingly, the main optics

kept its integrity and maintained its function = it can Zoom, and focus,

F-aperture is still working (though, setting only from the body side).

Since the Sony DSLR lens has Flange-back 44.5mm, to focus a bit forward

(in fact, 0.5mm exact) can give an infinity focus on Canon EOS body.

With some test shot, I was pretty impressed with its clever design and the

resilience = It’s a broken lens though, it is still usable as 18 mm to

200 mm lens. (with certain manual improvisation ! )

[] 

(Photo Left / Edge of the Lens was welded.   Center / Screw mounted Lens.  

Photo Right / Pincer Tool for the Lens mount ring.  This tool

called “Kanime” in Japan was given by the Pentax (Asahi-Kogaku)

—– Code of the tool = AK-1-1-LA means Asahi-Kogaku-1-1-Lens Assembly

when I had an exhibition in their Gallery in Tokyo )

But because it was made using  “Hot stamp” (drop a lens into plastic barrel

then heat seal) it was not expected to be disassembled and it was very hard

to modify and re-use.  —– I’m thinking what to use or making out of it ?

(Use for projection kind may be interesting, as the lens got

more than x11 times Zooming ratio.) 

[]

Lens Mount Adapter — AF type ? ? ?

Majority of the reader here may not know what this is.  This is a close-up

device called camera bellows. (This one came from a Photo-Slide  

Duplicator  “Illumitron” sold in the 80s. — I think. ) It would extend

the focus of the Lens much further, therefore creates close-up pictures.

(On this photo, Nikon 24mm F2 lens was mounted in reverse direction

to give even higher magnification. )

With full extension of Bellows, 24mm lens can give  x10 image  (Photo Left)

—– with less extension, this image was  x4  (Photo Right)

And those images were the Butterfly’s wing.  (Photo Left / x10 / 24mm F2)

(Photo Right / x1.5 / Micro Nikkor 55mm F3.5) 

Not necessary bellows —– to use any non-dedicated lens on the camera body,

we need to use a “Lens Mount Adapter”.    Especially with the Camera, which

Flange-back was thinner than the lens, such as Canon’s EOS was 44mm and

the Pentax’s  Flange-back was 45.5mm => It would give a margin of 1.5mm

to create an adapter. And the Photo above was the world first “Pentax to EOS”

adapter I made myself, soon after Canon introduced their EOS camera.

(Pentax P-K adapter was Epoxy Glued to a EOS T-mount adapter which was

cut to 1.500mm thin exact.) (Photo Left and the Center) 

There are many Pentax (M-42) to EOS adapters in the Net.  (Photo Right)

And this is the Nikon Adapter = a genuine Nikon Mount Ring from their K-3

ring was screwed on to a EOS T-mount ring which was cut to 1.250mm thin

—– together with the mount ring, it made a 2.5mm thick Mount Adapter.

I put a thin lever to move Nikon’s F-aperture using a wire from a Paper-clip.  

(Photo Center)     And I also made a special Lens Rear Cap with 

aluminium tub to protect this thin lever. (Photo Right)

Untill few years ago, the mount adapter sold in the Net was just a mechanical

adapter though, a type proclaiming to give AF confirmation started to appear.

On today’s hi-tech camera, the lens and the body need to work close together.  

The body (or it’s CPU) needs to know Which Lens, What Max F-aperture,

Which setting on the Zoom, Where is the current focus setting, etc etc.  

To give those informations, a circuit board with Micro-controller was

connected through the lens mount contact. (Photo Left / from Sony Lens)

 The Mount Adapter with Focus

 Confirmation has an electronic contact

and the inside having 1.5x3mm  size

Micro-controller which supposed to

give Lens Informations, such as Manual

Focus setting (hence the camera should 

give focus confirmation only) — but, all

the adapter I bought, non ever worked !  

(On the photo, 5 pins of the chip were

connected to each lens contacts ) 

I’ve tested Nikon type,  Contax type,  Pentax type, Olympus etc from many

different suppliers, from £7 to as much as £30 though, no AF confirmation

 but only showed F1.4 was the best.  Others were even worse like photos above !  

I smelled very fishy, I didn’t go any further.  (There is a high risk to damage

the camera  such as —— the report from a user.)

My guess was that, one or two, once or twice it might have worked before

though, Canon up-dated their firmware and blocked them = mass produced

(and fake as well) chip was sold, and the Opportunists are making a money

out of fraud !  (How many people actuary claiming money back ?  😀 )

So, the question is what to do with

such useless and potentially harmful

mount adapter. = as long as

electronically malfunctioning chip is

there, it can’t be used with camera.

—–> The answer is just remove it !  

Put the mount ring on a cooker’s hot-plate

or with any mean, heat it up to about 200 degree C ( Epoxy glue will be soften)

and use a knife to scrape it off.  Then you can use it manual, perfectly, safely.

(Never use wet towel to hold hot ring = hot steam will burn your finger.  

= Use dry kitchen towel instead.   Be be careful not to get burned ! ! ! ) 

Some maker is boasting “Precise engineering” though, I found most of

them were 0.3mm or so thinner = If it was too thick, it may trouble to

have an infinity focus though, if it was too thin, rotate the lens more. 😀  

And some User report saying “Expensive type has better fix (more firm

mounting) —– This is purely a myth.  

My Tamron 500mm lens has double adapter mount  (Tamron to Nikon +

Nikon to EOS / Photo Left)  hence it’s hard to call it anything solid !

—– Still it can create solid sharp image.  => Grip the camera body and

the lens, try shake them = you can see the lens wobble (on the gap of

lens mount it moves more than 0.5mm !). (Photo Right)  

Especially a Zoom Lens, they wobble a lots, and when you shake it,

you may even hear the rattling noise —– If it was made too tight,

lens couldn’t give a quick focus.   😀    Its loose construction was

the norm of the lens and not much trouble in the normal use.

(Your wobbling hand is far more trouble than the loose lens ! )

———————————–

PS: A funny story was that, when I tested “Lens Extension Cable” my 5D

might have changed its firmware settings inside and since then one of the

“AF confirm” type Adapter (For Contax / Sold by EMF) started working !

(Now, time to time AF confirm sign light-up, still

all the lens was treated as 50 mm F1.4) 

[]