Macro Flash-light / Small Flash on Goose-neck
This must be a “You got to be joking” kind of funny, cheap adaptation of a flash for Macro
photography. —– And I would say “Why not” 😀
Since, most of my existing flashes, except Canon 430EX-II are not compatible for the latest DSLR
to give TTL flash control, I needed to buy one for Macro-flash modification which I described
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The flash I found second-hand was 270EX-II, which is using only two batteries hence pretty small and
light enough to mount on top of a Goose-neck, instead to have internal modification I did before.
Decisive fact was that I already have [off the camera flash cable] made by Sunpak more than
20 years ago which was similar to the German SCA300 adapter system used by Metz, Agfa etc.
Sunpak tried to make the adapter for all the cameras which has been started to have new function, not
only ready-light, TTL flash control but even for focus-light for AF which was newly introduced AF camera.
Because of the Camera design was keep changing while adding new function, it was a hard task to
keep-up. —– On the end Sunpak became out of breath and bankrupted.
—– so, on that time lots of Sunpak products became obsolete and sold in a give-away price.
Once, Sunpak was a dominant force in the flash-light market with very innovative design and
versatile system such as the interchangeable head system with Telephoto head, Infra-red head,
Bare-tube head etc. not mention they produced very powerful model as well.
So, when I saw a box-full of their [Flash Extension Cable] in a camera shop, I bought all of them at once,
more than 20 cables for every type of cameras. —– Flash shoe is an awkward component to make
ourselves, (still, I worked to make and modify, such as adding one more TTL contact to Pentax type to
make it Nikon type etc. 🙂 ) therefore, it’s better to keep enough supply of many types in hand,
and it’s got very useful coiled cable as well..
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DSLR camera manufacturer is selling their [Flash Extention Cable] and all of their Female connector has
only 1/4” Tripod screw. = Once flash was put on the cable, it has to be mounted on a stand, otherwise it
has to be held by a hand. In contrast, the best thing of the Sunpak Extension Cable is, male and
female can be coupled, in other words flash can be perched on top of the camera, only 45mm
higher position. So that, it can be changed Flash on the camera to hand-lighting just by pressing release
button (which can be locked as well) hence, as far as I know, this is the best designed [FlashE xtention
Cable] in the history and the materials and the construction are also very good.
———– (Photo above: 1″ Aluminium C-channel is the best to make many structures.
———– And 3/4 ” Square Pipe will just fit inside, hence they can make best coupling system !
———– And they could be easily cut by hand tools, though it’s a very tedious work. 🙂 )
So, my modification was just Epoxy glued female connector on top of a goose-neck and made a small
piece of aluminium channel to connect the goose-neck to the camera bracket which is the in-hose
standard to connect any of my flash-light systems to the cameras.
—– To use the 270EX-II flash as a Macro-flash, thanks to the flexibility of goose-neck, flash can be
positioned (more or less) where ever desired, with or without bouncing diffuser.
—– following photos are the Test sample of each lighting. (Focus and F were Fixed)
————- (The Lens was CanonEF Macro 100mm F2.8 with home made “Ultra Proxer” / F2.8)
————- (This last set of sample photo was using F11 —— slight difference of lighting changes
————- the character of the subject ! —– See the difference on enlarged images )
(And the sample photos in the field will be followed ) 😉
—– those photos are taken in my room (I’m still busy dealing with boxes 🙂 ) of a small visitor,
Beetle, head to tale 6mm or 1/4″ big, using Ultra Proxer on Canon EF 100mm Macro
with 270EX-II flash and extension cable.
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——— (Photo Left : 100mm Macro at F16 + Ultra Proxer, 270EX Flash with Diffuser — taken x2 size.
——— Photo Right : same setting but at F 2.8 )
Close-up Lens on EF-Macro Lens
Well, those top two photos were taken by Canon EF Macro 100mm F2.8 Lens alone.
This Macro lens has internal focus system and it will be focused down to the life-size.
For general macro work, it is convenient to use though, for me, life-size is often just
not close enough. So that I specially made additional Proxer / Close-up lens my self.
As I detailed in the post, By using the Proxer, the Lens can close to x2 size, and
in addition, it creates almost phenomenal out-of-focus Bokhe.
The Bokhe created by this additional lens looks almost like Air-blush Graphic work.
Still, since this Proxer was made out of the front element of a Zoom Lens, it got double
lens Achromatic construction, no Chromatic aberration was appeared and the focused
image is quite sharp, corner to corner, even when the lens aperture was fully open.
All those photos, except top two, F-aperture was set to F2.8 and the Camera was
set to AV mode. Auto focus does work though, as the nature of this kind of
close-up work, I used manual focus.
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Ultra heavy Proxer — Close-up Lens from TV Zoom
Those photos were taken by Zeiss 85 mm F 1.4 lens, with my handmade Proxer was
attached to it. The Proxer = Close-up lens was in fact, a front element of a Canon
TV-Zoom lens which I’ve cannibalized from a broken lens. (hence cost nothing 😉 )
As the original lens was a very expensive TV lens, it has a very high-quality
Achromatic lens. ( Even ED glass may have used in its construction.)
In most of the case, it is not very difficult to disassemble the lens —– in this case,
after unscrew 14 small screws, the front Lens was disengaged from its focusing helicoid.
—– then it was glued to a 67 mm filter ring. (filter glass was removed beforehand)
Front-element of this lens works as a close-up lens, hence with 85 mm lens it act like
a life-size Macro converter. —– And with large 1.4 F-aperture, it gives very shallow
depth of field. (and very big Bokhe ! — Still, the focused image itself is quite sharp ! )
——(Metric ruler was shot in 45 degree. Left: F1.4 / Center: F2.8 / Right: F5.6)
Though, this 3 cm thick solid glass in a solid metal helicoid is really heavy, almost
the same weight of 85 mm lens itself. 😀
(The photo above : Left was taken F1.4, but Right photo was F5.6 )
(In those photos, look at how the single hair of fluff was captured on F 1.4
= Please click and enlarge twice)
As you can see from the photos above, off-focused Bokhe is a bit too much for
most of the people’s taste though, that is what I’ve been after.
(This effect couldn’t be mimicked by PS ! )
—– to get this effect, I tried many Soft Focus lenses, Filters, Pinhole Photo,
Double-density Pinhole, even Double Focus in Double exposure.
But there is no sharp core in a Pinhole photo, and the Double exposure has
the trouble to keep the subject exactly in the same position etc etc.
= After many many years of attempt, now I think, I got what I wanted.
Only a problem is, this TV-Zoom Proxer gives only life-size close-up image.
May be I need to find another lens which got longer focal length. 😀
Still, it’s a start.
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Ultra Proxer — Recycled from Old zoom lens
Proxer is an old name to call Close-up lens which attach on front of the lens.
The lens I’m talking here is a front lens element I’ve scavenged from an old zoom lens 85~210 mm F 3.8, sold under many different names —– the photo was in the previous post (first photo, Front lens was near the left end).
Most of the close-up lens consist simple convex, single meniscus lens mounted on a filter frame. Same idea to put a magnifier before camera lens and take close-up photo. It was convenient to have a small adapter lens to take closer picture, as in the old days there was no such things like a macro setting on the Primary lens (Standard lens).
—– To make a high-performance Proxer, I did some cut and bonding works with epoxy glue, which was worthwhile to create a treasure out of junk. 🙂
Photo left : Don’t hesitate to hack-saw a lens barrel. Once disassembled and the glass was removed, even a precision optical device, is a piece of metal. = What it used to be is only in your mind. On this moment you are dealing the work to create something new. What required here is a careful but very simple and boring push and pull work. 😀
Center photo : To the front lens, hack-sawed front barrel (which got 58mm filter screw ) was screwed back and a filter ring was bonded to its rear side with epoxy glue.
Photo right : The finished close-up lend was attached on the front of the Canon EF 100 mm Macro lens, which also has 58 mm filter size.
You might be wondering, while having macro lens already, and having a skill to use the lens in reverse etc. = all sorts of close-up trick, why do I need to have yet another close-up lens. —– well, all of my Macro lenses were down to the life-size, in other words, they take a picture of 36mm x 24mm is the closest. I simply wanted to close a bit more. (My attention tend to go rather small things. 🙂 )
—– And a real intention was to have much more exaggerated out of focus Bokhe. (I’m tired with clear images which is everywhere and too easy to come by today.)
Photo left : With this close-up lens, when the master lens, 100 mm Macro lens was set to the infinity, a small dole (36 mm tall) looks like this. (taken F 2.8)
Center Photo : With close-up lens, when the Master Macro lens was set to the life-size, it produces x2 larger image (dole’s head is 10mm). Have look the Bokhe in F 2.8 = max open). (This Bokhe is quite close to the Olympus Zuiko 50 mm F 2 Macro lens ! )
Photo right : A small beetle who happen to came to my room (it’s too hot these days, the window was fully open) this photo was taken with a bounced flash-light with F 11.
Unlike most of the Proxer, this home-made close-up lens has double lens chromatic structure, and fully coated. = Think, a cost of common cheap Proxer, and a Front lens which is the most crucial part of the lens structure in a zoom lens.
= Difference of quality is obvious. As you can see it in those sample photos.
A photo of a moth parched on the wall in my room, taken by EF 100 mm Macro with the handmade Proxer. = With F 2.8 the depth of focus is really shallow still, in the focused area, the image is very sharp.
This is a test shot of the screen of a Tablet (a photo of my umbrella). This close-up lens maintained very high quality of the image = Very even, corner to corner. And this is at F 2.8 ! (See details, by click it, and again)
Left photo is Macro lens alone and about 1/2 size. Right photo is, with close-up lens but Master lens was set to Infinity. Hence this combination can take photo from infinity to 1/1 and with this Proxer to x2. (By the way, Canon 5D mk-III has dreadful red-color cast when ISO was set to 6400. In AWB and in any setting. Though, at ISO 100 much better. = See the photos below)
(Photo left : 5D but Mk-II. Photo Right : The ISO setting was 100 = Much better !)(Those are hand-held photos = only for Color reference.) To be fair, I show you the photos by Nikon D810’s color in similar setting.
(Photo Left : Nikon D810 — ISO 3600 Photo Right : Same but ISO 100 Both with Micro Nikkor 55mm F3.5 — 1/2 )
Higher ISO setting mean, very low out-put of image sensor has to be amplified electronically to its limit. While amplifying to such extent, still linearity has to be maintained, while the out-put of each BGR may not having exactly the same character.
= Can of warm is opened. 🙂 In the same time, higher amplification also amplify the noise as well.
—– I admire and praise the people who managed it and brought the benefit of very high ISO setting even if it was not (yet) perfect.
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Junk Lens — How to recycle ?
After digital revolution, analogue age old lenses become almost a junk.
Simply, the camera and the lens today are too different from their predecessor.
As the lens has to work with the camera which got so many functions therefore
the lens also needs to function such as auto focus, electronically position controlled
F-aperture, distance-coded focus not mention high zoom ratio, of which the zoom
position was also electronically coded. (Those code were used to control Flash-light)
= In order to deal with all those electronics, the lens having its own microchip and
able to communicate with camera’s main CPU.
Without having those electronics, lens couldn’t be used on the camera —– except
Canon EOS (It can take any lens include a Pinhole in AV-Mode, of course with
manual mode as well. — But, Nikon couldn’t make even a single image out of pinhole,
without giving quite complicated procedure to set-up the camera side. )
Though, don’t misunderstand, even today, the optics is still optics, it works on the
same principal, hence if you get a convex lens and concave lens scavenged out of old
camera lens, it would make a telescope for a kids to experiment. Or use them to project
an image or focus LED light etc etc.
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The lens design has also changed a lot such as the use of aspherical lens (in fact most
of them are a so-called Compound lens, aspherically moulded plastic was stacked on
a glass lens) —– nevertheless, I admit, today’s lens is very well designed in deed.
(Though, why they became so big and heavy ? — considering, how compact camera
became so small and light, while able to take more or less the same picture. 😀 )
In those aspects, may be there is no point to give a damn to the old lens though, still,
such as F-aperture diaphragm has changed almost nothing (only driving mechanism
may have changed to motor etc. And the front lens is still, good achromatic lens.
Not mention the focusing helicoid which is impossible to make by ourselves, still
having lots of use, not only in the photography.
= We can scavenge a lots out of such old lens. —– As a matter of fact, good old
non-plastic lens is far easier to disassemble and Re-use. (Plastic built lenses were
NOT designed to be serviced as they were built by snap fit or heat-weld.)
(Lens above is a Canon TV lens, it must had a price of many thousands of pounds. )
The best thing is, we can find those old lens in a camera shop’s junk box,
with a price of couple of pounds, if not free.
To disassemble those lens, there may not need to have more than small
+ AND – screw drivers. (but need to use the brain a lot = it is a puzzling game)
In coming posts, I’ll show you what I’m going to do with those “Components”
saved from old lens.
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Heavy Assignment — Winding Grip for Hasselblad
When I mentioned my “One hand Shooting” somebody accused me saying that I’m
bluffing such as Hasselbrad couldn’t be used by one hand. —– On that post, I didn’t
go into the details as the post was talking about the flash-light.
Well, the photo above is the set-up of my “Mid grade shooting”. (I used to make a
joke “Photo job is just like a set menu = ingredients and the price is accordingly,
(in Japanese expression, 松, 竹, 梅 定食 / Pine, Bamboo, Plum set). Pine set uses
either 5″x4″ or Pentax 6×7 with two or three studio flashes, heaviest tripod and an
assistant, therefore the charge would be in the order of thousand+, Plum set would
be hand-held Pentax 6×7 or 6×6 Hasselblad with may be two lenses. (it depends —)
Bamboo set is by 35mm camera with Agfa Flash-light — still with umbrella. 🙂
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I’ve been using my Hasselblad with modified winding grip. Hence, right hand alone
can wind and click the camera. Left hand having the flash though, this flash (with
umbrella) can be instantly joined to the camera bracket hence free the left hand to
adjust the focus, or with the aid of focusing handle, even right-hand holding the grip,
stretched finger can easily adjust the focus. (Shutter speed and F-setting will
be done on the beginning as the flash has an auto control, and the lighting in the
room or in the event is more or less constant )
—– Once get used, there was no problem.
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This winding grip was originally for the Bronica camera and I modified it for
Hasselblad. (in order to couple with grip’s mechanism, wind-up nob of Hasselblad
was also modified)
And in the photo, the Prism Finder which looks a bit odd, was originally for Cowa SIX
camera. (I put Flash-light Ready-indicator to this Prism Finder through Hot-Shoe as
well —– click a camera before the flash-light was ready, and loose one frame is not
a joke, considering 120-6×6 film gives only 12 frames / 220 Film gives 24 frames )
——– (Photo above : Olympus T45 with 70cm Umbrella to use on a light-stand)
—– As long as it works reliably, it is enough for my use. Cosmetics is out of scope.
Though, to use a camera in such arrangement (Flash-light is Olympus T45, the most
powerful and quick-charged flush then) is literally deadly heavy to the hand.
= It was a price to pay for the quality, but it also justify the charge. (Trouble of the boss
in the Japanese companies are, they themselves got pretty expensive camera such as
top Nikon or Leica, still they never seen the monster like this = it makes them to
convince that the professional is totally different, and to pay for its quality.) 😀
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To put some effort to make everyday’s work more comfortable and to improve the
quality, it is what Buddhist calls [Mindfulness] to be a life in photographer.
And those modification work, by hand-tool is a bit by bit work, rather simple manual
work = typical Zen Buddhist’s practice. So, I would say, it’s better than to spend the
time than to watch useless TV program (anyhow I don’t have a TV 🙂 ) or drinking in
a Pub (neither I drink alcohol or fizzy drink). = This is the Zen attitude to the life.
Still, I wouldn’t say I’ve achieved something much more than watching TV though,
for me it was a better fun, actually able to see a tangible results. 😉
—– By the way, this Hasselblad was internally half modified, hence I couldn’t sell,
since remained in my hand, together with an EL Body, 250mm lens and 5 of 70mm
film-magazines etc. which nobody wanted to buy — now I got nice antic collection,
starting from Red bellows Kodak Folding No.1 etc, hundred of the antic cameras. 😀
—– it’s mean, some Zennist still got bad habit = collecting junks ! —– I think, to pay
respect to the inventor of each cameras and to guess how those people found the
way to design, and its thinking process is a very interesting mind-game.
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Flying Angel — Wire Figure
This is my Angel, yet another wire-figure I made on 2007. (So, those photos were
taken by that old Kodak camera, and the photos were clopped —- hence, pretty low
quality photos) But not PSed, the figure was really in the air (hanged from the tree).
When I brought this to a gathering of Dorkbot, the figure made a well known artist
Anne Bean, frozen 5 min—– ( I was frightened, such good artist can memorize all the
structure and able to make identical copy 🙂 )
Strangely you may found, this lady has no neck. Her right hand holding the head. 🙂
Wire used was 1.6mm garden wire, and I was planned to make it x5 size, it’s mean
life-size, by 8mm copper tube though, I realized that, if I made this in my room,
I can’t take it out 😀
—– One day, when I got big studio, I’ll do it (though, seemingly never happen 😀 )
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Development of Foetus
Well, I meant not a baby but wire-Figure in Foetus Posture.
Unlike a body posture spreading limbs, Foetus posture might be more awkward to
make sense, because it might become just like a pill of wire. —– So, I tested how it
could be made simple and still convincingly looks like a human-figure. — The first
study above was made its back and the legs separately, so each did look “likely” shape.
(I found, in Foetus posture, it doesn’t need to have a head —- We think head was
buried between the shoulder. 🙂 )
Then, the second attempt was how to reconcile the joint of upper-body and the legs.
—– This one was not successful or smart enough though.
The head was accommodated in the third model.
Looks not yet streamlined enough —– though,
so far this is the final piece called Foetus.
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Drawing with Invisible Force
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This is a wonderful watercolour drawing by Elene Caravela, which I found in her blog:
elenacaravela.wordpress.com (Quality sake, please see her Original Drawing there)
Elena has been one of the most prolific artist and the blogger who showed Watercolors, Oil paintings,
Photographs = very wide coverage of genre in very high quality work.
In the past year or so, I always impressed, even amazed by her drawings,
how her almost whimsical free blush strokes able to capture such vivid and also
realistic human figure. —– What is the secret of her creation ?
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To my comment and a notice that I want to re-blog —– she gave me her reply ;
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I’d be flattered Yoshi. I guess, I plan in my head a bit to make sure the figure will fit on the page
(mentally count out head size both vertically and horizontally, but really loosely).
Then see the movement on the spine and extremities. The force takes over.
Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t 🙂
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—– As she said, she might have given some consideration to the size of the
head etc. = here the thinking stops, then “the Force takes over”
To see her blush work, there is no hesitation, its quick movement some times creates even
the paint splash or drip. (in another piece) = blush and the hand moves perfectly spontaneous.
So, —— in such spontaneous blush stroke, look again the drawing above, = one blush stroke
perfectly depicted the body-line to the round bottom. — I guess, here not only the
direction of the blush movement, also it involved certain control of the pressure to the blush
and its twists, which determine the width of the line. (though, only a guess — I know the way how
to use curving chisels but not necessary the drawing blush 🙂 ) — all in the moment of one stroke!
This phenomenal control was done by the invisible Force, not possible by a human thinking.
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Spontaneity mean, there is no intentional control or thinking. —– This is nothing other than what
Lord Buddha taught = the state of Selfless / Mushin, therefore “The Force takes over”
= this Force is what Buddhists call the Dharma ! (or the Rules of the Universe)
The moment when the blush and the subject meet, the tension and the heat created
on that moment, drives the blush wild. = and creates dynamic impressive piece.
(consideration or useless thinking such as what others or market may think etc. spoil the tension
and the heat, hence makes the piece dull)
But Elena got perfect freedom not bothered by useless thinking, and I guess, when her blush was
driven by the Force, even she, herself may not able to control = blush got its own mind and move
almost automatically. That is how she creates such impressive work = It’s wild, as it was driven
by the Force of artistic nature. 🙂 That is what the art of Elena stands out.
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By the way, don’t get me wrong, I’m not implying Elena’s work is anything to do with Buddhism.
Far from it, the state of Selflessness is one of the inherent human psychological nature.
Buddhism applied it to more general aspects of the life. Not only the superb blush work, we can
achieve the superb life with it. = Quite similar to that Love is not because of the Christianity, but
they applied it to much deeper spiritual level.
Zen Buddhism pushed the potential of Selflessness to its extremities.
—– That is what the Zen Buddhism is.
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Elena has acquired this state of mind while drawing / practicing again and again,
probably tens of the thousands of times. Hence, the Buddhism using the same way of
the approach = practice it again and again until the hand started to move automatically.
= Hand moves automatic = without thinking = without self conscious = Selflessness.
In the Selflessness, invisible force takes over. This force is the Dharma. = Under
the control of the Dharma, phenomenal freedom and the result can be achieved.
This is how the Selflessness in the Zen Buddhism works.
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Don’t Think -vs- Think yourself
Almost crèche like joke among the Zennist is this contradiction.
Think yourself yet still Don’t think. Well, here is a typical sample.
This is an Electronic multi-meter, and the matter here is its cables. Some of you might think
“What the matter to fuss about such trivial things” and you may say “Anyhow, when we use next time,
we need to loose the cables anyway. Why bother to tidying up each time ?” —– still in the same time,
you may remember the past trouble of entangled cables with other wire. And when the cable was left
loose on the work bench, you may needed to un-entangle them while wasting the time which was
always in the busiest moment. And in the worst situation, try to pull the cable out, then it was broken,
and in such moment you don’t have a spare. In any account, it is better to keep the cable tidy.
No one can argue or think otherwise.
Not told by others, what you thought and convinced by yourself,
its understanding stays for ever.
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This is the end of argument and the THINKING process. Once you were convinced,
just DO IT in practice. (—– only an obstacle is your laziness. 🙂
But, if you a person, aiming better, you will DO IT. Why not. This is THE ZEN.)
—– in practice, once you made it as a habit = after use, always just put the cable back to round
the meter and tie it up with the tape. (to make it like in the photo ! )
It is a simple practice hence, no-one need to think or use the brain to do it.
—– the hand will do it automatically as a habit. = When everything are tidy, there
wouldn’t be any havoc on the work. —– This is how “Peace of mind” comes from. 🙂
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Lord Buddha’s teachings are all for gaining the NO SELF, and MUSHIN state of mind.
To be in this state, everything has to be left to the subconscious hence NO conscious thinking there.
Because of this, he showed how he does it and made the followers to copy, or gave an instruction
what to DO. But never explained why, or what was the intention. Simply because, if it was
explained, the person remember the word, then an action become “an action according to the word”
= stuck to its notion / Thinking.
This is the reason why, if you think, Sitting is for a practice of Mushin, you are wrong.
If you sit, just sit. = If you settle your bottom on the floor, that is what sitting is. You don’t need any
thinking. —– In fact, it doesn’t matter, whether you are standing or walking.
= Just let the body to DO, stand or walk.
Without your thinking, your body knows everything how to keep balance while sitting or walking
whatsoever. This automatic, inherent perfect control was seen as the Dharma.
(Hence, the Dharma is in you !)
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Then, what you can see or find in the state of absolute Selfless, Mushin —– So far,
NO clear description was ever elucidated by anyone.
Just say, the state of Panya Paramita. —– there might be NOTING.
Or, this Nothing may be the ultimate wisdom what human being can ever get.
So to say, the Dharma is everything, in the same time it is nothing = VOID.
(If you think, it is a matter for you.—– But, if you don’t think, there is no issue here. 😀 😀 )
How great, Zen is. — don’t you agree ? Ha ha ha. 😀
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