Deptford — Art or Odd ?
In south-east London, just before the Thames River reaches to Greenwich,
it is the Deptford. Unlike the posh Greenwich, this part of Lewisham is
rather poor area = hence lots of artists (I guess, rather poor artists) are
living in this area = And it creating very distinctive atmosphere here
though, I wouldn’t necessary say it is artistic, but definitely it is odd. 🙂
Next to the Deptford open market, the Albany Theatre is
one of the center of the Community Art activity.
But half of the market is a Flea Market = or some might say junk heap.
Therefore, to distinguish Deptford’s “distinctiveness” = whether it is
art or junk is a difficult task. 😀 Photo above left is — can you guess,
it’s a tattoo shop !
The area having quite a number of Vietnamese population hence
many Chinese-Vietnamese restaurant as well.
And number of Charity shops (or junk shop). —– Important point is,
they were sold to the grown-ups, not to the children.
On the table, Permanent flower in a glass jar = What a great idea !
—– I’m wondering, who got a courage to cut a hair there ?
—– or the population here loves a joke so much ?
And so-called Laughing Buddha (Chinese Putai = Taoism figure, nothing
to do with Buddhism) must be a warning of obese in the restaurant. 🙂
They are the Wedding cake kind ! = What a fantastic idea again !
So, where ever you go, ART (sort) is everywhere.
This is what Deptford is !
(Photo Right is, the entrance to the Site-office of construction site !
= not a joke ! )
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Most fancy Macro-photo set-up
This is a rather fancy combination of the macro photo set-up,
around the famous Olympus 80 mm F4 1:1 Macro lens.
This lens was designed for 1:1 Slide duplication or inter-negative work.
Most of the Macro Lens was designed to give the best performance at
1/10 shooting distance. (Ordinary lenses were designed for the infinity.)
So, this Olympus lens was quite unique even among the macro lens.
—– though, this lens was designed to use on the Extension Bellows,
I was thinking to make an adapter to use the lens on a bellows like this.
—– then, I found a fancy (and very rare) camera accessory “Pentax,
Helicoid Extension Tube” together with “49 mm to M42 Reverse ring”
= in this combination, I can use this lens without a bellows.
From the Left, Zuiko 1:1 Macro 80 mm F4, 49 mm to M42 Reverse Ring,
Helicoid Extension Tube, M42 to EOS Adapter ring, EOS Extension Tube
and EOS 5D MK-II Body.
Unlike the previous photo by 24 mm lens, rather long 80 mm lens can
give more even view and giving a ease of lighting. (This is x1 or 1:1 shot)
Clopped and part enlarged image isn’t too bad to the 24 mm original x10 image.
F4 is not very bright for 80 mm lens, still the out of focus bokhe is quite
large and soft. —– (But a little bit messy. 🙂 )
Looks interesting image though, whether this image is better than such
as Tamron 90 mm F2.5 or Canon Macro 100 mm f2.8, it’s need to have
a test shot in the exactly the same setting and the lighting.
(I might add the photos by those lenses later here. )
—————————–
PS: When I posted this, a reason why it became so fancy was that I didn’t
have Olympus-EOS adapter —> hence, I needed to mount the 80 mm lens
reversed = since I couldn’t use 80 mm lens’ own helicoid, I needed to add
Pentax Extension Helicoid and so on !
—– Since then, I obtained an adapter => I can mount the lens in normal
direction straight onto EOS Extension Tube. = Here the simpler configuration.
When this lens was mounted about 80 mm from the Image Sensor, it focused
to infinity. And with 80 mm more Extension Tube, it creates life-size image.
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Mind-set of the Medallist
Now the news from Sochi Winter Olympic is the regular feature in the media.
So, naturally I read quite number of the words from the Medallists “How he
(or she) came to this point”. Such as the one from the first Gold Medallist
of Japan, Yuzuru Hanyu (羽生結弦) the Figure Skater.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoqHZH6KE1c
—– (Unfortunately I couldn’t find a proper video from Sochi in Youtube =
most of them are either old clips or the clip only using his name with
crap contents. = this one from last year’s competition.)
Yuzuru grown up in Sendai, Japan the place received that earthquake and
tsunami few years ago. So, even he had a part of the same fate, couldn’t
practice for 6 months, as a local ice-rink was destroyed, on top of all sorts
of life’s ups and downs. —– still, in his word on an interview, he said
“On the end I came to the point to realize that I couldn’t be anybody
more than myself or anybody less than myself, and understood, there
couldn’t be anything else but to go the life to be a skater.”
= No pretence of special pride carrying the top name or the feeling carrying
the duty to the country. (Yet still, when he won, he carried Japanese Flag
on his shoulder. = He was thank-full to the people who supported him
back in Japan. —– He was a nice 19 years old boy !)
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This is in fact quite common feeling among the athletes who became
top medallist. = Non boasted the words like “I came to the Olympic to win
for my country”—– but “Just did my best and it happened to be an Olympic”.
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It is a common misconception = “To achieve such highest goal, it must need
to have highest concentration of the Will and the strong Mindset”.
—– strangely you might think, the stronger the will or higher the aim or
desire kind, it fails to achieve the goal. —– We human was not designed to
withstand to maintain such hard will, and our fate is not providing plain
sailing. = The higher the aim, the stronger the disappointment when the ship
hit an obstacle, then the person brake down.
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Athletes compete physical game though, it is in fact a very heavy mental game.
Minute fear or negative doubt would hinder the moment of judgement.
After thousands, tens of thousands of practices, the body got accustomed to
perform routine = let the body to perform. = No “Will, Aim, Pride, Pretence,
Desire, Show-off, Sense of Obligation, Duty, Fear, Doubt, Arrogance or Shame”
= in other words ANY MIND was not required here. = Just Do it.
Any how, in the moment when the athlete is competing, there couldn’t be
a margin to haggle any thought.
—– ? ? ? —– Don’t you think it’s sound familiar ?
Yes. This is exactly the same mental state to Mushin and Ichijo of the Zen.
Or, the Selflessness of the Buddhism. —– are they Buddhist ? Not necessary.
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Lord Buddha’s teachings = Buddhism, was the wisdom learned from the
human nature, and been applied to the general aspects of the life.
Wisdom in the human nature which was prevailed in the process of extreme
practice was in fact the wisdom held by the universe = Rules of the Universe,
which is in the Buddhist’s term Dharma.
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And the contemplation those athletes has gained, is nothing but
their Enlightenment = Being nobody else of the Self, who is in fact Selfless.
= This selflessness is in deed, the Dharma.
___/\___
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Tripod — give a thought
Among rather delicate Photo equipment, Tripod is exceptionally physical.
No another equipment would be thrown into a car floor. —– and may be that
was a reason why a film company disposed and gave a broken tripod to me.
When I got a huge Bilora tripod (Photo Left), it’s legs were crushed. I replaced
them with 3 Manfrotto’s Monopod and put Gitzo No.4 (largest) Tripod-head.
= This 15 Kg heavy tripod can extend to 3 m high(with extension column) and
never produced blared image caused by a vibration, resonance kind. (of cause) !
(I was using this for Pentax 6×7 high-angle shot, or large format 4×5 kind.)
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Center Photo is a rather light-weight Gitzo (Reporter) with Ball-socket head.
Unlike other Gitzo which got 3 axis (X,Y,Z) fixing,
this ball-socket head has “a kind of” ease for quick
adjustment. In the same time it is a disadvantage.
If 3 axis can be adjusted individually = for instance, while keeping X,Y
fixed, but change only Z direction, it can have finer control.
And being as light-weight and thin pipe, (even worse, ball and socket’s joint
is rather thin long neck) this tripod is sceptic to vibrate when all the
combination and the balance of the weight happened to resonates.
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And the Photo right is one of my small tripod (but not the smallest) which
become flat, when not in use. (Easily slip into a bag. )
This tripod extends to 1 m and fold to 38 cm, the weight is mere 500 g !
It’s a typical case, “Better than nothing” but never perfect in any aspects. 🙂
The most important point of using tripod is, never fallen into an expectation
of false security. = Unless the tripod is really hefty heavy one, the use of tripod
may create more adverse effect = causing the blur. Somewhere like a beach or
hill side, when the wind was strong, the tripod may be vibrating with the wind.
(You can feel it while rightly touch the leg.)
Test your tripod with your camera mounted —–> Click a shutter while rightly
touching your finger to the tripod leg. = If you feel tripod vibrates,
that is a quality of your tripod ! => Need to become aware of FALSE security !
Then take a measure. Such as, hung something heavy from the tripod.
When tripod is vibrating, instead to use a Remote-Trigger or Delay-shutter,
grip the camera (on the tripod) and trigger the shutter by your finger !
(Hand works as a dumper. ) —– Or completely opposite approach against
Shutter-shock = drastically lower ISO and the shutter speed and make
shutter speed something like one second to few seconds !
Unless the subject is moving, strangely, the photo become much sharper.
(See it yourself ! 🙂 )
—– From the experiences seeing the broken Carbon Fibre Tripod, Golf club
and Fishing rod, I’m not a fan of Carbon Fibre. = When they brake, they
disintegrates. Broken aluminium leg is still “a kind of leg” = You still able
to shoot a last photo or two on it.
But, disintegrated bunch of plastic is utterly useless.
Not to have a feeling of “false security” mean, better carry an insurance
for the worst situation too = carry one Kg more for stronger tripod !
After all, the steadiness and the reliability comes from its solid weight. 🙂
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Pinhole Portrait Picture
Some one might say, they looks like the photos of the earliest (100 KP)
digital camera. —– Oh, com’n they were created by a pretty expensive DSLR
5D, Mk-III you know how much the cost !
(Taken at the Wednesday Workshop in Greenwich)
And the others might say “What a waste of time” = Hours of days of work,
and created this ? —– What for ? ? ? Oh, com’n what’s wrong with you ?
I wanted to show = to be a portrait, what’s the minimum the picture
need to have — or other words, “Enough” to describe the person. 🙂
In fact, it was the same one = Semi-Fisheye, Diopt-Pinhole Hybrid,
Double-density Pinhole. Very very sophisticated Posh system, you know ?
Ha ha ha 😀
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Camera Shake / Resonance of Tripod
On the previous post, the top photo taken by 200 mm Lens which was
held against the Camera body, was inevitably shaky and couldn’t been
properly focused. When I realized that there is Catkins, I set-up a tripod
and 500 mm lens —– but after few clicks, I discovered that the photos
were utterly fuzzy. => I increased ISO speed hence shutter speed, still
the situation wasn’t get any better.
Have look the information of the photo, left bottom under the Histogram =
O mm lens mean Non-Canon lens, ISO 1600 and Shutter speed 1/2500 Sec.
This was not off-focused image. ( no double line, typical to Mirror lens there)
As the photo on the tripod showed the funny shake, I resorted with
hand held. And strangely (you say), it produced much sharper image.
This time, ISO 400 and the Shutter speed was 1/ 320.
It was well known only to few people = a Shake caused by the Resonating
equipment. = In here, 500 mm lens, Canon 5D, and Gitzo Reporter Tripod
almost fully extended has happened to resonated and gave very fine vibration.
(If the extension of the tripod was shortened, there may not be a vibration.
= that is the tricky part of the [Resonance] = hard to predict though, it is
possible to test => hit the set-up of the tripod with a stick and listen the
sound = if they makes good long sound “Boom” = Resonation suspected ! )
The photo above (heavily clopped image) by the
Tamron 500 mm Mirror lens, hand held and
ISO 1600, the Shutter speed was 1/8000 ! = I like a glare of branches.
(Human body is a dumper = wouldn’t resonates —– thanks goodness !)
May be I should find the frequency of this resonating vibration, because
Anti-Vibration system in the lens may not have an effect to higher frequency.
(I tested it with Anti-vibration of 70~200 F2.8 lens though as it got totally
different weight and the balance, the same resonance wasn’t replicated.)
May be I should talk about the Tripod in near future.
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Catkins on Alder Tree
Few days ago, I gave a peek to a broken Sony DSLR lens through Canon 5D
and saw it still works as a 200 mm optics. —– then, I realized, what I saw
was not just a shape of a winter tree. —– It’s Catkins there already !
With a serious attempt, I took picture of it with 500 mm lens on a tripod.
Yes, in deed it was the Catkins. = Without having any serious cold spell,
London started to have a Spring. —– I wouldn’t say I like cold but,
I believe the nature needs it as a cycle.
The lens I was playing was the one I bought for £10 as a broken junk =
Sony-Minolta’s 18-200 mm Zoom lens, which has been seemingly dropped
and the barrel was broken into pieces. —– Still, amazingly, the main optics
kept its integrity and maintained its function = it can Zoom, and focus,
F-aperture is still working (though, setting only from the body side).
Since the Sony DSLR lens has Flange-back 44.5mm, to focus a bit forward
(in fact, 0.5mm exact) can give an infinity focus on Canon EOS body.
With some test shot, I was pretty impressed with its clever design and the
resilience = It’s a broken lens though, it is still usable as 18 mm to
200 mm lens. (with certain manual improvisation ! )
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(Photo Left / Edge of the Lens was welded. Center / Screw mounted Lens.
Photo Right / Pincer Tool for the Lens mount ring. This tool
called “Kanime” in Japan was given by the Pentax (Asahi-Kogaku)
—– Code of the tool = AK-1-1-LA means Asahi-Kogaku-1-1-Lens Assembly
when I had an exhibition in their Gallery in Tokyo )
But because it was made using “Hot stamp” (drop a lens into plastic barrel
then heat seal) it was not expected to be disassembled and it was very hard
to modify and re-use. —– I’m thinking what to use or making out of it ?
(Use for projection kind may be interesting, as the lens got
more than x11 times Zooming ratio.)
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Lens Mount Adapter — AF type ? ? ?
Majority of the reader here may not know what this is. This is a close-up
device called camera bellows. (This one came from a Photo-Slide
Duplicator “Illumitron” sold in the 80s. — I think. ) It would extend
the focus of the Lens much further, therefore creates close-up pictures.
(On this photo, Nikon 24mm F2 lens was mounted in reverse direction
to give even higher magnification. )
With full extension of Bellows, 24mm lens can give x10 image (Photo Left)
—– with less extension, this image was x4 (Photo Right)
And those images were the Butterfly’s wing. (Photo Left / x10 / 24mm F2)
(Photo Right / x1.5 / Micro Nikkor 55mm F3.5)
Not necessary bellows —– to use any non-dedicated lens on the camera body,
we need to use a “Lens Mount Adapter”. Especially with the Camera, which
Flange-back was thinner than the lens, such as Canon’s EOS was 44mm and
the Pentax’s Flange-back was 45.5mm => It would give a margin of 1.5mm
to create an adapter. And the Photo above was the world first “Pentax to EOS”
adapter I made myself, soon after Canon introduced their EOS camera.
(Pentax P-K adapter was Epoxy Glued to a EOS T-mount adapter which was
cut to 1.500mm thin exact.) (Photo Left and the Center)
There are many Pentax (M-42) to EOS adapters in the Net. (Photo Right)
And this is the Nikon Adapter = a genuine Nikon Mount Ring from their K-3
ring was screwed on to a EOS T-mount ring which was cut to 1.250mm thin
—– together with the mount ring, it made a 2.5mm thick Mount Adapter.
I put a thin lever to move Nikon’s F-aperture using a wire from a Paper-clip.
(Photo Center) And I also made a special Lens Rear Cap with
aluminium tub to protect this thin lever. (Photo Right)
Untill few years ago, the mount adapter sold in the Net was just a mechanical
adapter though, a type proclaiming to give AF confirmation started to appear.
On today’s hi-tech camera, the lens and the body need to work close together.
The body (or it’s CPU) needs to know Which Lens, What Max F-aperture,
Which setting on the Zoom, Where is the current focus setting, etc etc.
To give those informations, a circuit board with Micro-controller was
connected through the lens mount contact. (Photo Left / from Sony Lens)
Confirmation has an electronic contact
and the inside having 1.5x3mm size
Micro-controller which supposed to
give Lens Informations, such as Manual
Focus setting (hence the camera should
give focus confirmation only) — but, all
the adapter I bought, non ever worked !
(On the photo, 5 pins of the chip were
connected to each lens contacts )
I’ve tested Nikon type, Contax type, Pentax type, Olympus etc from many
different suppliers, from £7 to as much as £30 though, no AF confirmation
but only showed F1.4 was the best. Others were even worse like photos above !
I smelled very fishy, I didn’t go any further. (There is a high risk to damage
the camera such as —— the report from a user.)
My guess was that, one or two, once or twice it might have worked before
though, Canon up-dated their firmware and blocked them = mass produced
(and fake as well) chip was sold, and the Opportunists are making a money
out of fraud ! (How many people actuary claiming money back ? 😀 )
So, the question is what to do with
such useless and potentially harmful
mount adapter. = as long as
electronically malfunctioning chip is
there, it can’t be used with camera.
—–> The answer is just remove it !
Put the mount ring on a cooker’s hot-plate
or with any mean, heat it up to about 200 degree C ( Epoxy glue will be soften)
and use a knife to scrape it off. Then you can use it manual, perfectly, safely.
(Never use wet towel to hold hot ring = hot steam will burn your finger.
= Use dry kitchen towel instead. Be be careful not to get burned ! ! ! )
Some maker is boasting “Precise engineering” though, I found most of
them were 0.3mm or so thinner = If it was too thick, it may trouble to
have an infinity focus though, if it was too thin, rotate the lens more. 😀
And some User report saying “Expensive type has better fix (more firm
mounting) —– This is purely a myth.
My Tamron 500mm lens has double adapter mount (Tamron to Nikon +
Nikon to EOS / Photo Left) hence it’s hard to call it anything solid !
—– Still it can create solid sharp image. => Grip the camera body and
the lens, try shake them = you can see the lens wobble (on the gap of
lens mount it moves more than 0.5mm !). (Photo Right)
Especially a Zoom Lens, they wobble a lots, and when you shake it,
you may even hear the rattling noise —– If it was made too tight,
lens couldn’t give a quick focus. 😀 Its loose construction was
the norm of the lens and not much trouble in the normal use.
(Your wobbling hand is far more trouble than the loose lens ! )
———————————–
PS: A funny story was that, when I tested “Lens Extension Cable” my 5D
might have changed its firmware settings inside and since then one of the
“AF confirm” type Adapter (For Contax / Sold by EMF) started working !
(Now, time to time AF confirm sign light-up, still
all the lens was treated as 50 mm F1.4)
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Wide-angle Pinhole Photo
In the previous post, I’ve shown you ultra-wide or Semi-fisheye “Diopt-Pinhole
Hybrid Photos” which mean, it used not only pinhole but combined with an
optical lens too. —– The photos here shows you how the device looks like.
In fact it was a very simple device = Double-density Pinhole was mounted back of
an EOS mount-adapter and a pretty heavy concave lens was mounted on its front.
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If anybody try to do a pinhole photo on a SLR camera, (still, it could be done in
all sorts of the way such as a “Photo-sensitive emulsion was painted on a panel
which was placed inside of a huge Shipping container box and a small pinhole was
made opposite wall = Transportable [Camera Obscura] ) in most of the case,
people places a pinhole panel on the camera front where the lens was removed
and obtained fuzzy image of about standard lens. (If a camera used was Full-frame
DSLR, it would be equivalent 45~50mm lens but with APS size, it would be about
85mm lens image).
Because, such as Canon EOS camera has 44mm flange-back (distance from lens
mount to image-sensor) and the diagonal size of 36x24mm frame was 43.26mm
=> If you draw a Triangle 43.26mm wide, and 44mm high, you will get a spread
of the top-angle 54 degrees.
The shorter the hight of triangle, the wider the spread though, you can’t place a
Pinhole panel closer than 37mm (7mm inside of the Camera) otherwise it
obstructs (or damages) the mirror. This limitation lead me to resort with an
optical glass to obtain wider view in the pinhole photography.
So, the inside of the device, you can see blue panel of a beer-can (Photo Center)
and the Double-density pinhole of which the outer hole was 1.5mm and the
center hole was about 0.15~0.2mm. (Photo Right).
After a field test, where I found hopeless Halation in this optics, I realized that
I need to give an Anti-reflection covering to the shiny beer-can. 😀
—– (The photos above shows the comparison = with or without Concave lens.
—– Note : Pinhole Photo has NO distortion or any optical aberrations
—– = Since it is not Optics NOR bends the light. (Save a Diffraction. )
— (Being Pinhole, there is NO focus or Depth of Field = Fun to make a Close-up !)
It needs further refinement still, at least, I got pretty wide “Pinhole Photo” view.
—– whether it was worthwhile or meaningful was arguable though, it was
what I wanted. (with fun ! ) 😀
By the way, the lens I’ve used was cannibalised from a “Fisheye adapter lens”
widely available in the net. (about £10~£15 but quality is what we paid
= I mean Don’t expect too much. —– this is a Fun Project. 😀 )
And about the lens mount-adapter, I’ll talk about it in the next post.
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Dulwich Park — Semi-Fisheye Pinhole-photo
If you try Pinhole Photography on SLR camera, most likely you get
an image of about Standard lens (45~50mm). In order to get even
wider image I made “Diopt-Pinhole Hybrid System” —– And
I got Semi-Fisheye Pinhole images. (More details in the next post.)
(In this post, other lens was 15 mm lens.)
Pinhole itself was “Double Density Pinhole” and on front of pinhole panel,
I mounted very strong concave lens. —– hence, the viewing angle was
determined by the concave lens and the image was created by the Pinhole.
Strong concave lens created quite a distortion too = hence semi-fisheye.
I can take very sharp photo though, it was not my creation. Simply, the
lens I used was happened to be very sharp, that’s all. As it was not my make
and available to anybody = anybody use the same lens, the picture would be
sharp. It is an old crèche situation = “Nice photo !” “Yes, camera was good”.
I fed-up with nice sharp photo, so, I’m creating rather fuzzy unsharp images
which is definitely my creation and I’m solely responsible.
And this is the first field test of “Diopt-Pinhole Hybrid Photography” 🙂
(Probably first ever in the world. 😀 )
Dulwich is in the walking distance and they got quite few nice old buildings.
Though, I excuse not to provide detailed information of the subjects.
(I only need to test optical effects.)
( I wonder, why Snowdrop has no other than white flower ?
—– Don’t tell me because the snow is always white. 😀 ))
I don’t know, is there anybody actuary living in this “Park warden’s house”?
For a soft focus effect, Double-density Pinhole seemed to be a bit too much
or need to make even smaller, sharper hole. And the concave lens creates
hopeless halation —– a bit more work was required here. 🙂
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