Walk on Greenwich

Together with a friend who started photography, walking 

the Greenwich became rather regular event.

Anyhow, spring has come and the day was so fine.

And a lots of tourists. (Nothing to do with me though.)

No complaint, or comment. —– why do I need.

(Zeiss 18mm, Tamron SP 500mm on Nikon D810 )

[]

Good Lens or Cheap Lens

Some regular reader may remember, this lens has appeared here before.

But if you look inside, you may noticed that this one doesn’t have shiny

blue beer can.  = In deed, the front lens is the same though, the panel, and

the pinhole inside is different.  I did swap the panel to single pinhole hence,

it still has semi-fisheye wide angle view but the image doesn’t have a

hallasion created by the Double Density Pinhole.

The front lens came from an ubiquitous cheap Fish-eye Adapter, therefore,

giving fish-eye like distortion and wide-angle view, but being as low cost =

single lens structure showing the Chromatic Aberration.  = Part enlarged

bright-spot of Photo above, rainbow effect is quite visible.

Theory was the same = ” Place a strong concave lens before Pinhole would

creates [Wide angle Pinhole Image]” and this one has a concave lens from a

Canon Zoom Lens. = which is in deed the front element of the same lens I’ve

experimented with its rear element in the previous post.  

And I put the same Double-Density Pinhole panel behind of this lens.

This Canon’s Zoom was EFS type 18~55 mm hence, it was a kind of

medium wide-angle, so that even a front element concave lens was not too

strong = giving modest wide view.  (Though, still having quite a distortion.)

Yet still, the lens carrying the quality of the Canon = this front element

has an Achromatic design = no Chromatic aberration was visible. 

So that, thanks to this high quality Diopt-Pinhole Photo System, on a

full-frame 5D Mk-III camera, I can take high-quality Fuzzy image !

(I’m serious, believe me.   Ha ha ha  😀  😀  )

———————–

IN ADDITION:  This is the front element from a Sigma Zoom Lens.

Lens came from a friend of my friend who gave-up to repair the lens.

(The person managed to disassemble though, couldn’t put it back.)

It seems Sigma was used all sorts of clever tricks to produce the lens

“Reasonable”= not superb, still good enough, light and small, and

most importantly, not expensive for the people of this class.

The front lens seems to be plastic = easy to be scratched (Photo Left)

and the Photo Right shows funny reflection = this is an “Aspherical Lens “. 

You may have a fancy illusion toward the Aspherical Lens. = Yes, Aspherical

lens can give superb optical quality though, these days, it was used as a

magic bullet to save a cost !  (Instead to use many heavy and expensive

Grass, just one plastic Aspherical Lens could eliminates the aberration.)  

Because, Aspherical lens is no longer difficult to make nor expensive.

= Computer give the design and the laser curving can make a precise

die-cast, then the rest would be just a plastic mass-production work. 

As a rather ordinary  x3  Zoom, the strength of the front Concave lens is

similar to the Canon’s Zoom shown before.   The front element consists

two lenses hence it supposed to be an Achromatic design —– though

photo above shows the Chromatic Aberration. (See the rainbow color.)

(of cause, it might be corrected together with the rear element.)

And I put a single pinhole behind of this lens.

[]

Too Early Spring (2)

This is definitely a Cherry tree though, she already started to bloom. 

(on 10th of March !)

And somewhere in the town, I saw two of the Common Magnolia in full bloom.

This is yet another Magnolia tree.  

In London, the temperature became as high as 25 degree C yesterday.

May be having a warmer weather seems to be better than frosty one

—– though, I’m not necessary comfortable.     It’s something wrong.   

PS: ————————–

I just found this cherry tree in full bloom in the Greenwich.  

I’ve been here around every Wednesday though, there wasn’t a flower

last week —– and suddenly today !   🙂   ( Honest, Believe me.  😀 )

[]

Junk as a Macro lens

Camera lens is the optics = even if it was broken and ended-up in a bin,

lens can still function as an optics.  Convex lens can project an image.  

This lens was a Canon zoom lens which I got free from a camera shop.

Top left of the photo above, is the rear group of the Zoom lens which function 

as a convex lens to project the image.  Convex lens mean, it will work as a

magnifying lens and in reversed direction, it could be a good macro lens.

—– for a fun, I tested this lens unit to take macro photo.

(on the photo, you can see a L-shaped plastic bar on the lens-unit, there were

three of those which held the lens unit in the position though, such flimsy

plastic couldn’t survive a shock and easily broken but impossible to repair, it

was the end of the life ! — replace whole unit may cost half of the lens price.) 

For macro photo, lens unit was stacked on a mount adapter ring using sticky

plastic-pate, and it was mounted on

Canon 5D through 2 sets of Extension

tube. (total extension was 125mm) 

—– After few shots, I found the

sharpness wasn’t good enough,  

so that, I closed the Iris somewhere

half-way. (Photo left)  

This Aperture / Iris  has a

stepping motor built inside

= So, I’m going to make electronic circuit to drive it. 

And, this is how the photo was taken while using a small flash-light.

The photo wasn’t too bad —– considering the lens came from a bin.  😀

This lens unit act like a 38 mm lens, so that it can produce about  x5 macro

image on this extension.   The photo above was a clopped part-enlargement.

(effectively,  x10 magnification = 3.6 mm object was on the 36 mm frame)

Originally, this was a rear half of the good zoom lens. —– Think about, it

is a magnifying glass of £100 cost = it got to be high quality !

[]

Parts Box ?

To make, modify or repair something etc. what ever to do, it’s always need

to have all sorts of components or parts. —– strange urban myth was that

I’m a kind of professional, so, I have a professional class storage / drawer

box to sort the components.  And people are believing that I got a workshop.  

Wrong !   I’m a non of professional.  Therefore, I’m keeping the components in

the most unprofessional way.

= My storage box for the parts is “plastic Ice-cube tray” used in a fridge. = This is

the most compact and convenient way to keep the small parts in order.

(And cost virtually nothing.  🙂 )

Even just the screw, there are many different sizes, starting from  1mm~.  

About the same size but old  1/8″ doesn’t match to metric 3mm screw.  

So, they has to be kept separates, ETC, ETC !

Situation is far worse in the electronic front. —– if I got to store everything,

I need to have a space, size of a shop.  

So, I keep the items handy I most likely to use, in the Ice-cube Tray.   

I don’t remember when I got this and started to use. —– I might have

brought those from Japan = it’s mean, I’m using this, past  40 years !

For me, the matter is its function.  = as long as it fulfils my needs, that’s enough.  

And, even more crucial matter is  “What I do with those components”.

Parts are just a matterial.  Part wouldn’t creates anything. = Thousands tons of 

cement is not a building.   And the beautiful way to pile-up the cement neither

form a building. —– Building would be counted when it was elected.

So does the component here, when it became a part of a finished product,

it would be counted as a meaningful existence.  (but thousands end-up in a bin)

[]

Small Repair

In our daily life situation, when

something break down and need to

be repaired, in most of the case it is 

a loose screw or loose connection

kind of very simple fault.

In certain extent, it is true that the

everything break and lost = natural

were ant tear surely eat away its life

though, in the same time if we pay 

reasonable attention such as to give an oil or tighten the screws etc, the things

can last quite long time.  Like my Electric Kettle, it is more than 30 years old.  

In fact, there is little possibility of a Kettle to break down unless switch

it on without a water thence either whole Kettle melted down or burn-out the

heater element.   It’s mean, if we do “Always put only necessary amount of

fresh water and boil” = Kettle was designed to last for ever in this condition.

[]

But a kind of machine which has a motor inside, its vibration often cause a

break down.  The worst was the worn-out of the motor bearing (due to a rack

of care = dust,  and rack of oiling) otherwise,  a component became loose.

Photo on the top is a control board of a motor tool in which you can see an

exploded component called Triac.

The vibration caused a component to come loose and caused a short circuit.

The damaged parts was visible and the repair was simply to replace and fix them. 

The photo above is a control board of a back-up battery power supply.  

Right side in the left photo, you can see a yellowish box shaped component

was burnt and exploded.  From the shape and the size, it’s easy to see that it

was the same one in the left side, which said 100mF = It was a capacitor.

Remove the damaged one and test with equivalent component, if the whole

unit works (it’s mean no other component has been damaged), it’s the repair.

In this very case, the damaged capacitor was replaced by the equivalent

capacitor (in the photo right). —– But, if no obvious damage was seen, then

complicated trace and analysis game starts.  It’s mean, this  is not a small or 

simple repair. —– Some time it was called nightmare and often

it is cheaper to buy new one.  😀

][

(That) Early Cherry again

I lost the count how many times I posted the photo of this Cherry tree.

Because of this tree having the flower (almost) always, I talked

about many times, often with amazement.

She kept the full bloom from October to the next may before. But  

it was a bit low-key in last year —– still showing 10 or so flowers

always since last October and she would be in full bloom soon.  

So that I even dubbed her “Perpetual Cherry”.  Despite watching her in past

3, 4 years, still I’m not wise to tell why this tree has the flower out of season.  

—– Genetic ? = Type of variety such as crossed with Winter Cherry ?  or

just because the freak weather had triggered her to miss-judge the timing ?

What ever the cause, the weather these days are enough for her to bloom.

 

(My worry is that her branch seems to be very thin —– was that because of

the energy has been directed to the flowers and not much went to the body ?  

= we may need to give a lots of fertilizer to her ! )

[]

Too Early Magnolia

When I saw this Magnolia, I was even annoyed by it.

It is definitely wrong — gone too far.

Cherry can flower earlier but not this variety of magnolia.

Normally, this tree flowering after the Cherry — in May.

Without a reason, I have strange soft spot to ancient plants.

 Cycad, Tree-fern, Horsetail, Ginkgo, Yew, Monkey-puzzle, Magnolia, Lotus, etc.

For them to survive hundreds of millions of years,  they must

have a supreme wisdom printed in their gene ! —– I feel awe !

So, what’s wrong with she in this time ? ? ?

Those fuzzy images were taken by Wide-angle Pinhole on Canon 5D Mk-III.

[]

 

Moss

Wet but not too cold = who most enjoy this weather must be the Mosses.

And nobody would say otherwise.  So, no word here. 

(In fact, I do know them very little any way.  🙂 )

Three photos above were taken by Zeiss 85mm F1.4 with close-up lens.

Rest of photos were taken by Canon EF Macro 100mm F2.8 with Close-up lens.

[]

Electronics in the Lens

Lens of today’s hi-tech DSLR was connected to the camera body

on its bottom, mechanically and electronically.

Except the Canon EF Lens (for EOS), the Aperture lever has to be

pushed from the camera side, therefore when the lens was used in

rivers direction, either the Lens become completely manual (if the 

Aperture ring was still there) or just out of control. — But Canon’s EF

lens has its own stepping motor to drive the Aperture, hence as long as

they are electronically connected, the Aperture will function as normal.

(If not connected, there is no way else to use Aperture but fully open.)  

To have an electronic connection, we only need a simple cable !  

So, I made this adapter, long time ago, in fact soon after the Canon

introduced their EOS camera. ( yet, it was a film camera then.)

—– the connection between the camera and a lens was made by two

sets of male and female contacts. = I made and mounted them on

a Body-cap and a Lens-rear-cap,  and jointed them with a cable !  

= With this cable, even when a lens was held in angle, still the

lens function like as normal.

I could use this on EOS 620 and RT with EF 28 mm lens for

experimental close-up with tilted lens etc —– though, few days

ago, when I tested this again, with my latest Canon gear, 

I found, 5D camera refused to work with this.  😀  😀

[]

On the appearance, it was just an 8p connections and two of them

were the ground line, and the signal lines for each direction =

only 5 lines seems to be used though, as long as all 8 lines were

connected one-by-one there should be OK, other than the trouble of

impedance or magnetic interference kind, caused by an extended wires.     

(Those interference might be used to detect unauthorized connection.

And if anything odd was detected, Camera CPU may check the Lens’ ID.

—– If no answer was received, then camera stop to work normal.  🙂 )

[]

These days, the lens transmit their own ID for their own graphic program

to correct the individual characteristics of the lens, such as the aberration

or corner fall-off of the light.  = To correct the Chromatic Aberration,

Red signal from the Pixels would be shifted inward and Blue signal would be

shifted outward accordingly ! (So, the picture become even sharper !  😀 )

Though, I’m not necessary happy with this kind of approach —– once we

start to rely on computer graphics, we may no longer need to have such as

ultra wide angle lens or fisheye-lens, as we can get the same effect by

stitching the photos or use distorting graphic effect or “filters”.

Graphic design is a desc top process, it is not a photography on the spot.

Photography is a Site-specific, Moment-bound “interaction”

not just a visual effect.

= What “I” witnessed and how I lived with its moment  IS  the matter.

If the artefact left was a fake, the person and the life was a fake. 

[]

At a moment, I’m quite amazed how  Canon 5D  could detect

“something odd” about this cable, and teasing me while showing

photo-number [50] in the view finder, instead of [950] on the

camera top,  and not showing “Focused” indicator  etc.

—– not malfunction but maliciously falsified on purpose.  😀

(It takes time to debag and hack-into the camera. )

[]