Tilting Macro Bellows Test

These are the photos of the test shot of the Tilting Macro Bellows

which I’ve shown in this blog two posts ago.

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In photography,  Focused Plain is parallel to the Image Plain. = It’s mean if you 

want a photo of the wall painting, you have to aim a camera parallel to the wall.

(Ideally, the camera should be held at a half height of the wall and in the center,

provided the lens can cover wide enough for the whole wall.)   But when you want 

a photo of the carpet, you may not able to hold the camera right under the ceiling.

= Then you have to take a photo from one end of the room.  As the carpet stretching

end to end, to have the whole area in focus is not easy. = You have to use small

F-aperture and very slow shutter speed.—– Otherwise, use a camera which can tilt a

lens or use a lens called Tilt-shift Lens which may carry a price of £1500 or more.

——- Photo above Left is a modified camera “Conica-Tilt 2” and here with

——- Nikon PC-Nikkor 35 mm F2.8  

——- and the Right, this massive lens is Canon TS-E 24 mm F3.5   

When the lens was tilted 10 degree,  it can focus the object 20 degree out of parallel, in

other words, even if the camera was held parallel to the wall (90 degree to the  floor),

if the lens  was tilted 45 degree down, it gives a sharp focus of the floor, end to end.

( But very few lens can work while tilted 45 degree =due to limit of the image circle.)

Photo above, are the demonstration of  Tilting lens effects.  

Photo Left, the lens was dropped hence, Pan-focus effect was created.

But in the photo right, the same degree tilted lens was aimed to the same subject

“Upside down” (Lens was tilted upward) hence giving very shallow depth of focus.

The relation of the Subject – Lens – Camera was like this.  

Left for Pan-focus and the Right for Shallow-Focus effect. 

When the lens was tilted, focused plain is no longer parallel to the camera,

= like on this photo, as the lens was tilted left  20 degree, the focused plain

runs almost corner to corner.   So that, this kind of technique gives more 

choice of the focus control = which subject to be captured sharp.

(The photos here, Micro Nikkor 55 mm F3.5 was used on Canon 5D Mk-3

with F-aperture was set to fully open F3.5)

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Impressionist’s Flower Photo (without Pink)

Those photos were taken on the same day of the Shooting Party.

Being as an impressionist (for one-day 🙂 ) = no botanical

observation or comment.

Till here all the photos above were taken using a Fun Camera’s Lens.

And those last three photos were taken by the Wide-angle

Double-density Pinhole on Canon 5D Mk-III.

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Most fancy Macro-photo set-up

This is a rather fancy combination of the macro photo set-up,  

around the famous Olympus 80 mm F4  1:1 Macro lens.  

This lens was designed for 1:1 Slide duplication or inter-negative work.

Most of the Macro Lens was designed to give the best performance at

1/10 shooting distance.  (Ordinary lenses were designed for the infinity.)

So,  this Olympus lens was quite unique even among the macro lens.

—– though, this lens was designed to use on the Extension Bellows,

I was thinking to make an adapter to use the lens on a bellows like this.

—– then, I found a fancy (and very rare) camera accessory “Pentax,

Helicoid Extension Tube” together with “49 mm to M42 Reverse ring”

= in this combination, I can use this lens without a bellows.

From the Left, Zuiko 1:1 Macro 80 mm F4,  49 mm to M42 Reverse Ring,

Helicoid Extension Tube,  M42 to EOS Adapter ring, EOS Extension Tube  

and EOS 5D MK-II Body.

Unlike the previous photo by 24 mm lens,  rather long 80 mm lens can

give more even view and giving a ease of lighting. (This is x1 or 1:1 shot)

Clopped and part enlarged image isn’t too bad to the 24 mm original x10 image. 

F4 is not very bright for 80 mm lens, still the out of focus bokhe is quite

large and soft. —– (But a little bit messy.  🙂 )

Looks interesting image though, whether this image is better than such

as Tamron 90 mm F2.5  or  Canon Macro 100 mm f2.8,  it’s need to have 

a test shot in the exactly  the same setting and the lighting.

(I might add the photos by those lenses later here. )

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PS:  When I posted this, a reason why it became so fancy was that I didn’t

have Olympus-EOS adapter —> hence, I needed to mount the 80 mm lens

reversed = since I couldn’t use 80 mm lens’ own helicoid, I needed to add

Pentax Extension Helicoid and so on !

—– Since then, I obtained an adapter => I can mount the lens in normal

direction straight onto EOS Extension Tube. = Here the simpler configuration.  

When this lens was mounted about 80 mm from the Image Sensor, it focused

to infinity.  And with 80 mm more Extension Tube, it creates life-size image.

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Pinhole Portrait Picture

Some one might say, they looks like the photos of the earliest (100 KP)

digital camera. —– Oh, com’n they were created by a pretty expensive DSLR  

5D, Mk-III you know how much the cost !

(Taken at the Wednesday Workshop in Greenwich) 

And the others might say  “What a waste of time” = Hours of days of work,

and created this ? —– What for ? ? ?   Oh, com’n what’s wrong with you ?

I wanted to show = to be a portrait, what’s the minimum the picture

need to have — or other words, “Enough” to describe the person.  🙂

In fact, it was the same one = Semi-Fisheye,  Diopt-Pinhole Hybrid,  

Double-density Pinhole. Very very sophisticated Posh system, you know ? 

Ha ha ha   😀

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Camera Shake / Resonance of Tripod

On the previous post, the top photo taken by 200 mm Lens which was

held against the Camera body, was inevitably shaky and couldn’t been

properly focused.  When I realized that there is Catkins, I set-up a tripod

and 500 mm lens —– but after few clicks, I discovered that the photos

were utterly fuzzy.  => I increased ISO speed hence shutter speed,  still

the situation wasn’t get any better.     

Have look the information of the photo,  left bottom under the Histogram =

O mm lens mean Non-Canon lens, ISO 1600 and Shutter speed  1/2500 Sec.  

This was not off-focused image. ( no double line, typical to Mirror lens there) 

As the photo on the tripod showed the funny shake, I resorted with

hand held.  And strangely (you say), it produced much sharper image.

This time,  ISO 400 and the Shutter speed was  1/ 320. 

It was well known only to few people = a Shake caused by the Resonating

equipment. = In here, 500 mm lens, Canon 5D, and Gitzo Reporter Tripod

almost fully extended has happened to resonated and gave very fine vibration.

(If the extension of the tripod was shortened, there may not be a vibration.

= that is the tricky part of the  [Resonance] = hard to predict though, it is

possible to test => hit the set-up of the tripod with a stick and listen the

sound = if they makes good long sound “Boom” = Resonation suspected ! )

The photo above (heavily clopped image) by the

Tamron 500 mm Mirror lens,  hand held and  

ISO 1600, the Shutter speed was  1/8000 ! = I like a glare of branches.

(Human body is a dumper = wouldn’t resonates —– thanks goodness !)

May be I should find the frequency of this resonating vibration, because

Anti-Vibration system in the lens may not have an effect to higher frequency.

(I tested it with Anti-vibration of 70~200 F2.8 lens though as it got totally

different weight and the balance, the same resonance wasn’t replicated.)

May be I should talk about the Tripod in near future.

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Camera Stability Test

In the previous post, I talked about the Image Stabilizer a bit though I’m not a fan of it.   Since, I haven’t seen any photo which was benefited from it so far.  May be because, even without it I’m quite capable to shoot good enough picture hand-held. (even 500 mm lens !)

People may get a benefit of its Placebo effects = Peace of mind stabilizes the hand.  😀 

Still,  it was only “Impression from my experience”  —– not from the objective comparison.

—– So, in this occasion I purposely tested it.  

(but I wouldn’t say it was scientifically rigid —– Just clicked the camera as usual.) The test object was a “Pinhole-light” as you can see the photo left. = If the camera shakes, photo will clearly shows its movement at once.

I gave only one click for each speed, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30 but for Image Stabilizer (IS),  further 1/15, 1/8 and 1/4  were tested —– It was free-standing hand-held though, I was using my Chest-pod.  😉 

( Check the image of pinhole on the enlarged photo please)

Canon EF 200~70, F2.8 L IS lens on 5D Mk3  with IS On.  From left  1/125, 1/60, 1/30.   Lens zoom was set to  200 mm.

and further  1/15, 1/8, 1/4 —– even IS couldn’t save a shake on 1/4 .

The same as above but IS Off —– though, it didn’t make much difference.

Further slower speed = 1/15, 1/8, 1/4 —– 1/8 started to show a shake.

(Its horizontal movement showed,  Chest-pod stops vertical shake more !)  = It’s mean, IS made only one stop difference.

Tamron 500 mm F8 lens was tested on Canon 5D Mk3  on 1/125, 1/60, 1/30.

The same Tamron 500 mm was tested on Nikon D810 body,  1/125, 1/60, 1/30.  

Results shows almost no difference on the different camera body.

Canon EF 70~24mm F2.8 big heavy lens was set to 50mm and tested  1/125, 1/60, 1/30.

And small Micro Nikkor 55mm F3.5 lens was tested on Canon 5D Mk3 body.

—– Different size and weight of the lens showed not much difference.  

My conclusion was, as I thought before, the Image Stabilizer makes little difference, it was mare one stop.  (Anyhow for 200 mm lens, hand-held 1/4  (if not 1/8) is a hopeless situation.)  

So the lesson was, that if you are a good shooter, a sharp photo you made was = because you are a good shooter, not because of Image Stabilizer.  And if you are a bad shooter, no Image Stabilizer will rescue you.

 Those lenses are the lenses I tested with.  

Some are the latest current model but 55 mm Micro Nikkor and Tamron mirror lens are more than 40 years old. —— still working perfect (optically  😉 )  

And the kitchen was where I did those test shots.  The shooting distance was about 2m, so, I shot them while standing here (half step forward).  All from the same distance.

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Body Parts

Those photos are just a casual snap of the people playing with computer.  

But using 500 mm lens hand-held. = naturally, there was not much room to use

such long telephoto lens in a small room, picture became a kind of close-up.  

Yet still, it was 2 m away, people didn’t mind to be photographed much. —– and

I found a quite unusual usefulness of this lens, despite it is rather dark F 8.

(ISO was set to 1600,  shutter speed was  1/15 ~ 1/30, AV mode — just to mention) 

I hope you enjoy the photos.  😉 

Next time I hope to upload more appetising body-parts.  😀  😀

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End of Summer — Snap-shot by 500 mm Lens

If I didn’t tell you, you may not noticed that they were taken by 500 mm lens.

All the photos here except the obvious one were taken by a Tamron 500 mm

Mirror lens.  Photo looks pretty ordinary, and nothing special are they ?

Even with its 500 mm focal length, thanks to its fundamental design (incoming light

was internally reflected back and forward twice)  mirror lens can be less than 1/3rd of

its  focal length = in deed,  this lens got

only  11o mm long and 87 mm diameter

= say, mere one-size larger than my mug-cup.

So, the people on front of the camera may not

noticed that they’ve  been photographed.

= anyway they don’t mind others 10 , 20 m away. 

And of cause, I could easily take picture of a Mulberry, few left high on a branch. 

I found scattered confetti on a ground = it must be left by a wedding photo-do.

So, the summer 2013 has gone. (more or less)  😉

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Reflection on a pond

Those are the simple straight shot of the reflection on a water.  

If only it was not simple, was they were shot by 500 mm lens.

Please see the photos in large size by clicking the photo (and again.  😉 )

Long telephoto lens mean, it was in fact just in a small corner of the water.   😉

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Photos in Tone

Nature has its own tone, under rather subdued light, it’s shows subtle shade.  

Shape and its 3D structure may not as clear like the image under the direct light though,

we are not necessary need to see such detail.  

Subtle shade seemed to show more of what they are as it is.

Just see and appreciate as they are, without imposing my view is in fact less tiring and

able to relax.  After all, the photos here are not for any scientific or reference purpose.  

They are just what they are today as I’m here on this moment.

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