Yoshizen's Blog

Flowers in the Park — by Focus Shift

C'18~55 F'shift

In here the shots of the Flowers in the Park, taken by Focus Shift 

using the Canon FD 50 mm F1.8 or EFS 18~55 Zoom lens. 


03-Pec'R-F'shift-Flowers x2 Lens1-001


Well, not necessary everything was flower.  🙂


06-Pec'R-F'shift-Flowers x2 Lens2-001


Since this plant above is a cousin of Hydrangea, the white decorative part around 

are not a flower, in strict botanical term, they are called sepals (a kind of leaf).


09-Pec'R-F'shift-Flowers x2 Lens-001


As the camera was hand-held, not only the Bokeh created by the shifted focus

(= intentionally added out-of-focus bokeh) but also the blurr by the shake

might be mixed as well.  Shifting the focus on the Canon EFS zoom was done

by driving their AF motor and the FD 50 mm lens was purposely modified to

do the shift.


Focus Shift (B)

Focus Shift B-1-A09A8857

This is THE pretty girly picture.  But, you may not able to guess what sort 

of the lens I used. —– Well, this was done by the Sigma 28~200mm Zoom,

at 200mm F5.6 with Focus-Shift.

Focus Shift B-2-002

Here, the photo left was a normal shot and the right one was with focus-shift.

(Click and enlarge the photo to see the details = sharp details still there

together with out-of-focus bokeh.)

Focus Shift B-3-001

The photo left was the Canon EFS 18~55mm —– the red and white wires

were connected to its AF Motor.  And the center was the Sigma 18~200mm lens.  

Photo right , the Yellow arrow pointing its AF Motor, and its right on the photo, 

white gears is controlling the size of Iris. (Gear was driven by a stepping motor)

= but by rotating this gear with a finger, the Iris = F-aperture could be changed.

Though, it’s not easy to know what exact the value of  “F” then, since it’s fully 

open value changes from 3.8 at 28mm to 5.6 at 200mm, hard to know what is

somewhere between.  Just trust your camera’s auto exposure.  🙂  

Focus Shift B-4-001

Even with smaller F-aperture, out-of-focus Bokeh is always there.

= and this Bokeh is making the photo looks soft. Though, Bokeh mean

scattered light.  Hence, it reduces the contrast of the photo = may need 

to tinker it by making the photo darker and then brighten the highlight

to increase the contrast. — if it was necessary) 

—– Now I got box-full of broken / malfunctioned lenses = a lots of fun

is waiting to be discovered.  Ha ha ha  😀 


Camera Hack — or Lens Hack (by a Hacksaw !)

I’ve been kept saying that the Canon DSLR system is the most versatile, flexible

camera system known to us —– though, there is a funny contradiction within their

own system. — Among their DSLR lenses  there is the EF-S series which was

designed to be used on clopped format camera body such as a cheap EOS Kiss.

 As the EF-S lens’ image circle was smaller, lens could be made smaller, lighter 

 therefore cheaper = in theory, if such lens was used on the full frame body, the

image will be somewhat a rounded smaller image though in practice, it wouldn’t 

be happened because the protruded bottom of the EF-S lens was blocked by the

camera’s mirror box. 


Yet still, with an “intention”, I got a discarded EF-S 18~55mm II lens.  

—– My intention was to modify the lens to create “Soft image by Focus-shift” = 

Drive the AF motor during the exposure.  

With a Hacker like hack, it should be hacked into the 5D camera’s OS and hi-jack

the AF motor’s control though, the risk is, completely spoil the £3000 camera

of which the Canon will only laugh at me and refuse to repair the poor camera.

(We can find the code to hack in the camera’s OS in the Net though, the matter is 

not just drive the motor.  There will be a feedback from Encoder, position sensor etc, 

= With a conflict, soon camera tend to stop work with an Error signal.) 

What so ever, I need to mount this lens to my 5D body to test the feasibility.

EFS F'Shift-1-322-001

So, simply, I cut the protruding part of the lens mount. (Photo above)  

Now the lens could be mounted on the 5D body (anyhow, everything is in the

manual mode) = (This is THE most Canon hated kind of the practice ! ) =

the test shot of the EF-S 18~55mm on my 5D body was like those.

EFS F'Shift-2-323-001

= (Photo above Left) On 18mm setting, the bottom of the lens which was 

protruding as well was hit by the mirror and only a top part (in the Camera, 

it was a bottom part) of the image was recorded,  then an Error message 

was appeared and the camera stopped working.  🙂    

Still, somewhere 20mm position, as the lens doesn’t penetrate too deep,

 the captured image was like this. (Photo above Right)  

EFS F'Shift-3-324-001

And on the 24mm (25mm would be better), no cut-off of the corners.

(Photo above Left)  (Photo above Right was at 55mm)

= It’s mean, this lens could work as a 24mm~55mm zoom lens on full frame

body though, what was a point to have such a hassle while not so expensive

proper lens is widely available (not mention secondhand) is a good question. 

Yet still, to test “Focus-shift” experiment, this is the perfect lens for me

 —– which costed almost nothing.  🙂

(Another more expensive lens is using more complexed motor, such as an

Ultrasonic Motor, but this lens’ DC motor is the easiest to modify.)

EFS F'Shift-4-325-001

The circuit is taking a signal of the Shutter Open from the Flash Synchro Socket,

then start the AF motor, hence the “Focus-Shift”.

— So far this analog approach is working —> Make it to a compact package 

and to have a field test would be a next step.  

Then, whether worthwhile picture could be created or not is a different story.

(Never mind, it took 6 years for the photos of my “Yoshi-Handy” were recognized.)


Play with Lens

Make Lens-A1-A09A6955

Make Lens-A2-A09A6956

 So far I made quite few lenses to obtain soft-focus or wide-angle pinhole etc,

mostly by utilizing single lens. (still, some of them seemed to be an achromatic

compound lens)  Single lens has inherent aberrations which produces soft image.

Furthermore, I’ve experimented soft images with focus shift or even with camera

shake/vibration using aberration corrected normal lenses. Though, those approaches 

were hardly called technique but more like an opportunist seeking a good luck, since 

the success rate was rather low = lots of try and only few will show the good results. 

That’s because, when the focus ring was rotated while camera’s shutter was open,   

the resulting shake gives devastating effect than a soft nice blur.

= make smooth focus shift while camera was held steadily. = That’s what I need. 

Make Lens-2-300-001

Inside of the Canon G9 compact camera, I found pretty useful mechanism.  

(1) A motor moves the lens.  (2) Small stepping motor shifts a lens for focus.

—– though, those two mechanisms were constructed on the same plastic piece.

(Photo above, left) = I needed to cut and separate its center mechanism out of the

lim with DC motor.  (second photo shows the separated piece = the lim which can

drive a cogged barrel — in the second photo top, the lens was placed in the barrel)  

Photo 3rd and 4th showed the center mechanism — the lens was pushed out most

and pulled inward most by its stepping motor.

Make Lens-3-299-001

The photo above, left is the cogged barrel = when it was rotated by the motor,

the barrel, hence the lens will be extended(= Pushed out) (photo center)  

When motor rotate opposite direction = lens was pulled in. (photo right)

Those function is exactly what I need for a smooth Focus-shift.

Make Lens-1-A09A6852 In order to have an experiment to get a soft focus by the focus-shift ( by a normal

lens, not by the aberration) I took the lens unit out of a Canon 50mm FD lens.  

(Photographic equivalent of gouging the eye !)

( a disc shaped mechanism on the right is the Iris — very useful device )

The lens unit which I’ve put inside of the plastic barrel, in the photo before was this

Canon 50mm F1.8 Lens.  —– though, on the test, I found that this Canon 50mm FD

lens can’t give an infinity focus on Canon EOS = only usable closer than few meters.

(otherwise, the EOS’s mirror will hit the lens bottom.  😦  )


Then, give a thought, what all those hustle for ?

—– Why not just modify a Canon EF 50mm for EOS = 

put an extra electronic connection to override their AF motor !

(Ideally, huck into the Canon camera’s OS and reprogram it to give a focus-shift while

shutter is open = was the best though, not only the risk to destroy the camera but also,

the Canon doesn’t like it at all. ) 


Focus-shifting Muliti-exposure Photo

Multi'Ex-Focus shift Photo(1) DSC_0878-001

Don’t worry, You don’t need to clean your specs.

 It’s not your eyes. —– Photo IS fuzzy and it’s meant to be.  😉

Multi'Ex-Focus shift Photo(2)DSC_0874-001

——————- (Hey, this is a very very pretty girly picture ! = Click it and see enlarged. 😉 )

These photos were taken by a technique,  Multi-Exposure with Focus-Shift.

—– In order to have an effect = a core image with out-of-focus halo around, I did

it before while camera was set on a tripod.     But this time I did it by hand-held.

I guess, it could be done by Hacking into camera’s operational program and

over-drive the AF motor while the camera is giving the multiple exposure. 

(Single exposure is too short to manually shift the focus. —– In the old days of

wooden camera, the old masters used the same technique to shift a focus while

giving a long exposure.  And the Minolta Alpha 7000 had this effect in their

Portrait Mode to create softer image. ) —– But, I found it was not

difficult to move the focus ring during the few multiple exposure. = Just Do it,

and if not successful try it again —– success rate is somewhat one in four.  😀

(not only how far focus to be shifted, but a trouble of camera-shake is also

a spoiling factor.  = If you are a bad shooter, shoot a lot — one might hit a target !)

Multi'Ex-Focus shift Photo(3)460-001

Multi'Ex-Focus shift Photo(4)461-001

Multi'Ex-Focus shift Photo(5)462-001

Multi'Ex-Focus Shift Photo(8)DSC_0844-001

————- (This must be a puzzling photo = where it was focused ?  😉 )

Keen reader of this blog might be realized that the post in these days were all connected

behind the scene = how camera can be steadily hand-held etc.  (without having enough

practice and gained a confidence, this kind of photography would be only a waste of time.  

Creativity does not occur out of blue,  it needs to have a base, or incubating ground.  

A practical adjustment  or improvisation may suddenly conceived on the spot but

it is a minute part of the operation.

Multi'Ex-Focus Shift Photo(7)DSC_0812-003 

Multi'Ex-Focus Shift Photo(9)DSC_0815


Home-made flower :-D

Arty Flower A09A0882-001

It’s a middle of September, not many flower left.  

—– Don’t tell me to go to a florist.  I don’t buy flower or plant.  

They should be where they grow.  Unless I found a pot abandoned on the street.

—– (provided it’s not a meter-tall tree.)  —— Then Kinetorori murmured me  

“If no flower, why not make one yourself” —– It’s a his bad habit.

It’s the most un-Zen like practice though, —– I did.  😀 

 (Out of used envelope.)


So, a flower is blooming in my room. (keep blooming for foreseeable future.  😀 )

Arty Flower(2)A09A0889Buddhists telling us “Live on the moment”

—– though, I took a way against it.  

A photograph is imprisoned to the moment.  

So, to have a Jailbreak of this “Moment”

I made a photo to have rather prolonged span

of time (unlike ordinary photographic norm).  

The photo above consists multiple exposure

while having its focus shifted.  = Yet another

attempt to create fuzzy image —– went

beyond a soft-focus lens,  yet keeping a sharp core of

image, unlike a pinhole photo.  


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