Yoshizen's Blog

Cherry by Soft Lenses

1-A09A5079-Gaudy

The photos here were taken from the same Cherry tree as

the previous post.   (As they are not plain 5 petals flower,

this is not Somei-yoshino) 

The softness (?  Blur) on the previous post were created by

the Focus-Shift = focused image and the out-of-focus image

were mechanically superimposed on the shot. — But here,

the softness was caused optically by the lens’ aberration.

= Those first 4 photos were taken by the homemade

single glass lens = nicknamed “Gaudy lens” .

2-A09A5063-Gaudy

Among my homemade lenses, this is the most useful,

easy to use lens.

3-A09A5072-Gaudy

You may say, the aberration of this lens is too much

though, this is what I wanted.   🙂

4-A09A5075-Gaudy

5-A09A5094-Tokina

Above those two photos, you can see the type of

softness are very different.  = The photo above and

the following 3 photos were taken by  the modified

(front diverging lens was removed)

Tokina Wide-Converter.

6-A09A5088-Tokina

7-A09A5086-Tokina

8-A09A5097-Tokina

Regardless the technical blur blur, all about

the photography (or any art) the matter is the

end result = if it is good, it’s good. 

Nothing else.   😀

(And when the result was the same, the cheaper

the cost is the better.)

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Shake shake (2)

Shake B-11-A09A3342

There was a very similar photo of this, taken by a completely different technique

in this blog. = It is interesting to see an image of the 3D movement (depth) in

that photo was still captured as a 2D spread (shift) of the element.

Shake B-12-A09A3348

Shake B-13-A09A3329

Shake B-14-A09A3351

Shake B-15-A09A3357

Shake B-16-A09A3359

Shake B-17-A09A3360

Shake B-18-A09A3365

Shake B-19-A09A3370

shake B-20-A09A3367

What ever the technique or accident created its image, the matter is how the image

boggle the mind.    And what ever the origin of the image, some of them stuck and

remained in the depth of the mind very very long time.

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Gaudy Lens, gaudy images

Gaudy lens-A-01-A09A1226

They are the pictures of the first field test of a homemade lens I described

on the previous post, the Gaudy Lens.

Gaudy lens-A-02-A09A1187

The lens is a single meniscus magnifier lens with no coating, hence a lots of

aberration, halation was unavoidable —– in fact that was what I wanted

and the very purpose to make this lens.

Gaudy lens-A-03-A09A1190

Same as a bright light, the strong bright color causes strong halation too.

— even worse, the fuzzy image needed to have a bit more contrast =

increased highlight = brighter color spread more. It’s an orgie of the color.

Gaudy lens-A-04-A09A1199

Gaudy lens-A-05-A09A1192

Gaudy lens-A-06-A09A1198

gaudy lens-A-08-A09A1205

Gaudy lens-A-09-A09A1207

Gaudy lens-A-11-A09A1191

gaudy lens-A-10-A09A1202

Gaudy lens-A-12-A09A1211

gaudy lens-A-13-A09A1203

gaudy lens-A-14-A09A1218

gaudy lens-A-15-A09A1219

Thank you very much to see all through the photos.  In the next post, I’ll put

a bit more moderate version of the same flowers.

(With a trick of a piece of small paper.)  🙂

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Soft Image by Lens Vibration

Lens Vibration-1-A09A9364 After seeing the results of Somerset House shooting, I realized that the

“Focus-Shifting Technique” may not suite for that kind

of subject. —–> Then, I should try the Soft Blur-3-A09A5843-001

Camera  Shake or Lens Vibration.

 There was a  good sample in my past

 experiment.    (Though, to replicate the

 same, perfect effect was not very easy.)

So that, in this time, in order to give a good shake to the camera, I devised a

vibrating element (small motor with ex-centric rotor) mounted on the lens. Lens Vibration-2-001First, I tried it with Sigma Zoom 28~200mm while mounting the motor parallel

to the lens’ axis.(Photo above left)   But together with an effect of the gravity,

lens vibrated simple up and down.  Therefore, I changed to mount the motor 

perpendicular to the lens axis. (Photo center, Canon EFS 18~55 mm Zoom.  

And the Photo right, Tamron Zoom 70~300 mm)  

= As a result, the lens vibrates much more complexed way

= making a blur every direction.  — Still, there was much more decisive factor

here = the Sigma’s Zoom was quite hefty size and the weight, in comparison to

the almost weightless Canon EFS ZOOM 18~55mm which optical unit must be

lot easier to be shaken. —– (Position of the motor or its direction, such as on top

of the lens or 4:o’clock, 10:o’clock position and the camera’s direction etc are

also crucial)  It was the matter of the balance between the vibrating force and the

inertia of the optical unit or the camera body = hell lot of complicated dynamics.

On the end, a simple rule was, that if it wasn’t good, change the position of

the motor and try again. 🙂 Tam'70~300 at 130mm F4.5? + Vib

This is the same flower as before, but here by the Lens Vibration on the

Tamron Zoom 70~300 mm at 130 mm . —– check the photo clicked and

enlarged to see its original sharp details and the added soft blur.  

Lens Vib-ref-Focus shft-4-A09A9000-001 Then to have a comparison with previous photo by the Focus Shift.

I know, I’m doing a very destructive aggressive approach to the photography,

somewhat akin to a musician smashing his own instrument though, I’m not

doing this for the sake of Conceptual Blah Blah but simply to create 

aesthetically nice soft image. —- It’s a paradox Sir.  

And, I’m having a fun— a lots.   😀  

( I need to go back to the Somerset House again and a field shooting to prove

that those exercises are not for wasting the time.   Ha ha ha. )  

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Focus Shift (B)

Focus Shift B-1-A09A8857

This is THE pretty girly picture.  But, you may not able to guess what sort 

of the lens I used. —– Well, this was done by the Sigma 28~200mm Zoom,

at 200mm F5.6 with Focus-Shift.

Focus Shift B-2-002

Here, the photo left was a normal shot and the right one was with focus-shift.

(Click and enlarge the photo to see the details = sharp details still there

together with out-of-focus bokeh.)

Focus Shift B-3-001

The photo left was the Canon EFS 18~55mm —– the red and white wires

were connected to its AF Motor.  And the center was the Sigma 18~200mm lens.  

Photo right , the Yellow arrow pointing its AF Motor, and its right on the photo, 

white gears is controlling the size of Iris. (Gear was driven by a stepping motor)

= but by rotating this gear with a finger, the Iris = F-aperture could be changed.

Though, it’s not easy to know what exact the value of  “F” then, since it’s fully 

open value changes from 3.8 at 28mm to 5.6 at 200mm, hard to know what is

somewhere between.  Just trust your camera’s auto exposure.  🙂  

Focus Shift B-4-001

Even with smaller F-aperture, out-of-focus Bokeh is always there.

= and this Bokeh is making the photo looks soft. Though, Bokeh mean

scattered light.  Hence, it reduces the contrast of the photo = may need 

to tinker it by making the photo darker and then brighten the highlight

to increase the contrast. — if it was necessary) 

—– Now I got box-full of broken / malfunctioned lenses = a lots of fun

is waiting to be discovered.  Ha ha ha  😀 

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Focus Shift (A)

Focas Shift-1A-A09A8705

Focus shift is a kind of the holy grail to me in the soft image photography

together with the camera vibration.   Since the images of both techniques

were affected by the three dimension or the depth of the subject, it wouldn’t

be replicated by a digital graphical manipulation or a soft filter.

(effect of filter appears everywhere flat, same as a graphical effect —

otherwise it needs to give days of manipulation, pixel by pixel.)

Focas Shift-1-001

So that, I’ve been working for this quite a while, hence such as the lens

 in the photo appeared here long ago. (Lens was Canon FD 50mm F1.8)

Focas Shift-2-001

A device I made was not so complicated electronic controller which takes

the signal of the shutter-open from the Flash-hot-shoe then to start the   

AF motor in the lens, hence focus-shift (from the pre-focused point.)

= in the effect, the resulting image has both focused sharp image and

 an off-focused, fuzzy halo around.   The beauty of this technique is,  

it is not rely on the lens’ aberration but the out of focus Bokeh, therefore 

it can be done with any focal length. (as long as I got such modified lens) 

(For another lens = “softness made by the vibration of the lens” = which

can be done with ANY = non modified lens, would become ideal.)

Focas Shift-3-001

(Click and see enlarged photo — the sharp detail is still there. )

(The field report would be coming soon.)  🙂 

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Sweetest Cherry Photo (so far)

Tele-soft Cherry-1-A09A8225

Those photos were taken by a lens came from a Tokina Wide-converter and

its converging part of the lens has about 160 mm focal length, I call it Tele-soft.

In fact this lens can have a quite sharp image when an Iris was placed and the

spread of the light was centered — otherwise, its F4 equivalent of optics

produces beautiful soft Bokeh.     As the lens was mounted on a bellows, it is

quite awkward to use still, it can easily make a good close-up image as well.

Tele-soft Cherry-2-A09A8210

Tele-soft Cherry-3-A09A8200

Tele-soft Cherry-4-A09A8203

Tele-soft Cherry-5-A09A8196

Tele-soft Cherry-6-A09A8219

Tele-soft Cherry-7-A09A8220

Tele-soft Cherry-8-A09A8194

I hope you appreciated to see them.   

(Honest ?)  🙂

PS : I didn’t use any filter or PS digital manipulation at all

—– only clopped and the brightness was tinkered on Picasa free program.

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Play with Lens (2) — Tamron 300mm F5.6

Tamron 300mm F5.6

On the previous post, I’ve shown you many samples of the fuzzy, soft-focus images

created by the (mostly) single convex lens.   And I had a belief that the single

convex lens which inherently possessing aberration would produce soft image.

Yet still, what I have tested was the lenses about 50mm focal length —– then I thought,

if I can get longer (= telephoto) soft-focus lens I could take nice photos from distance.

(Pentax had 80mm Soft-focus lens and Canon used to have 135mm Soft lens though

their effect was rather subtle.)

—– So, why not to see it with the front element of a telephoto lens. 

What I tested was old (70s ?) tamron 300 mm F5.6 lens. (Photo above — bottom left was  

the front element and the bottom right was the rear element.

(this rear lens seems to be a 2 element compound lens) 

Tamron300mm-2-305-001

Photo above is the test shot of the Tamron 300 mm F5.6 (center photo was the part

enlargement of the photo left (full-size) and the right photo was by the Tamron 500 mm

F8 Mirror lens as a comparison) —– 500 mm lens showed much clear image though

this 300 mm lens was not in the original and in good condition. ( — Even worse,

those photos were taken through the dusty double glazed window)  🙂

Tamron300mm-3-306-001

The question was if this front element alone could show the soft image ?

Photo above, both left and the center were taken while rear element was removed

(= Front lens alone ! )    (This lens could focus down to 1m = 1/3 close-up.)

Well, with or without the rear element which supposed to eliminate

the aberration did not make much of difference. (on this occasion)

= My attempt to make fuzzy telephoto lens was failed so far.  🙂

*****************

Fun from a broken Camera (2)

G9 (2)-1-A09A6026-001

It was two weeks ago when I showed this photo of Canon G9.

Among the disassembled component, I found some of them are useable.

G9(2)-2-274-002

Such as the front lens alone (photo above left)  could be used as a 50 mm F2.6 lens

and the second group of the optics (photo above center) is a very strong diverging

(concave) lens = could be used to widen the view of a pinhole camera.

G9(2)-3-A09A6317

In order to use a lens, it has to be mounted somewhere — to a lens mount or

to a filter ring etc. —– unless it got exact diameter or screw pitch, we need to fill

the gap and glue (epoxy) them.  

I cut a beer can’s thin metal to the needed diameter and fix it with epoxy.

G9(2)-4-281-001

To do this kind of work, I bought M39 to M42 adapter ring and M42 to Nikon F

mount adapter. (Those item’s cost were only few pounds though, it took 2 weeks to 

get them here, and as being as cheap Chinese products, noting is what we expected

= M42 screw was slightly larger and couldn’t fit to the Pentax original mount.  

And the clow of Nikon Mount bayonet was too thin hence it was too loose.  

For M39 to M42 ring, I “re-cut” the M42 screw (Photo left in the center).

Nikon to Canon-1-A09A6530 (Photo Left : Nikon to Canon Adapter though,

part of its diameter was 0.5mm too large

= needed to file-down !)

(Such laborious cutting work with file is 

nothing but a good Zen practice.  😀 )

Second group of concave lens aforesaid was

mounted on the center of M42 to Nikon 

mount adapter. (photo above center)  

And the Front lens of G9 was mounted

on to a Nikon mount adapter via M39-M42 ring. (photo right

G9(2)-5-282-001

So, what was those hastle for ? —– The photo (right) here was taken by the

front lens of discarded Canon G9 Camera aforesaid.

(Left photo was also taken by a single lens came from another broken zoom lens).

( I’m preparing those lenses for the coming flower season ! )

If you like to see “sharp but ubiquitous” photo, please go to phone-camera.

The photos here, the images were full of aberration and halation still where

the focus lies, it’s sharp.  (Look the enlarged photo) —– they might be

the images what we are actually seeing.

(like impressionist painter had found).  🙂

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Soft Effect by Camera Shake

Soft Blur-1-A09A5814

While experimenting the effect of the camera shake, I got the idea to use the old

images on the PC screen as a subject. (Give a shake to a screenshot.)

Soft Blur-2-A09A5840-001

Soft Blur-3-A09A5843-001

Shaking photography become an industrial scale —– and it’s much easier to give

a different way of shake in the room = hand-held or a tap on the camera, mounted

on a flimsy shaky tripod. —> It created pretty nice soft blurr. (Photo above )

Original-2-3-A09A1660-001

On the screen, this was the original image taken by Zeiss 85mm F1.4 Lens.

Ref for 2-3-A09A1662-003

The photo above, the soft effect was made by a free program Picasa. = It’s obvious,  

a mechanical shake gives much more interesting effects. — and a fun !

soft Blur-4-A09A5850

soft Blur-5-A09A5857

Though, the screenshot having an inherent trouble to show the grid of the screen.

(If you enlarge this and next image, the grid would be seen.)

Soft Blur-6-A09A5798

If there wasn’t a trouble of the visible grid, this was a rather pretty image.  Pity.

(When right amount of the shake was given, the soft effect dissolve the line of grid. 

Too much shake spoil the image but too little leaves sharpness and the grid too.)

There is a possibility to use the Image Stabilizer for an opposite effect =

make an image blurred !   (Though, it needs to hack-in to the control program

otherwise the lens has to be modified !)

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