Cherry by Soft Lenses

The photos here were taken from the same Cherry tree as
the previous post. (As they are not plain 5 petals flower,
this is not Somei-yoshino)
The softness (? Blur) on the previous post were created by
the Focus-Shift = focused image and the out-of-focus image
were mechanically superimposed on the shot. — But here,
the softness was caused optically by the lens’ aberration.
= Those first 4 photos were taken by the homemade
single glass lens = nicknamed “Gaudy lens” .

Among my homemade lenses, this is the most useful,
easy to use lens.

You may say, the aberration of this lens is too much
though, this is what I wanted. 🙂


Above those two photos, you can see the type of
softness are very different. = The photo above and
the following 3 photos were taken by the modified
(front diverging lens was removed)



Regardless the technical blur blur, all about
the photography (or any art) the matter is the
end result = if it is good, it’s good.
Nothing else. 😀
(And when the result was the same, the cheaper
the cost is the better.)
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Shake shake (2)
There was a very similar photo of this, taken by a completely different technique
in this blog. = It is interesting to see an image of the 3D movement (depth) in
that photo was still captured as a 2D spread (shift) of the element.
What ever the technique or accident created its image, the matter is how the image
boggle the mind. And what ever the origin of the image, some of them stuck and
remained in the depth of the mind very very long time.
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Gaudy Lens, gaudy images
They are the pictures of the first field test of a homemade lens I described
on the previous post, the Gaudy Lens.
The lens is a single meniscus magnifier lens with no coating, hence a lots of
aberration, halation was unavoidable —– in fact that was what I wanted
and the very purpose to make this lens.
Same as a bright light, the strong bright color causes strong halation too.
— even worse, the fuzzy image needed to have a bit more contrast =
increased highlight = brighter color spread more. It’s an orgie of the color.
Thank you very much to see all through the photos. In the next post, I’ll put
a bit more moderate version of the same flowers.
(With a trick of a piece of small paper.) 🙂
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Focus Shift (B)
This is THE pretty girly picture. But, you may not able to guess what sort
of the lens I used. —– Well, this was done by the Sigma 28~200mm Zoom,
at 200mm F5.6 with Focus-Shift.
Here, the photo left was a normal shot and the right one was with focus-shift.
(Click and enlarge the photo to see the details = sharp details still there
together with out-of-focus bokeh.)
The photo left was the Canon EFS 18~55mm —– the red and white wires
were connected to its AF Motor. And the center was the Sigma 18~200mm lens.
Photo right , the Yellow arrow pointing its AF Motor, and its right on the photo,
white gears is controlling the size of Iris. (Gear was driven by a stepping motor)
= but by rotating this gear with a finger, the Iris = F-aperture could be changed.
Though, it’s not easy to know what exact the value of “F” then, since it’s fully
open value changes from 3.8 at 28mm to 5.6 at 200mm, hard to know what is
somewhere between. Just trust your camera’s auto exposure. 🙂
Even with smaller F-aperture, out-of-focus Bokeh is always there.
= and this Bokeh is making the photo looks soft. Though, Bokeh mean
scattered light. Hence, it reduces the contrast of the photo = may need
to tinker it by making the photo darker and then brighten the highlight
to increase the contrast. — if it was necessary)
—– Now I got box-full of broken / malfunctioned lenses = a lots of fun
is waiting to be discovered. Ha ha ha 😀
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Focus Shift (A)
Focus shift is a kind of the holy grail to me in the soft image photography
together with the camera vibration. Since the images of both techniques
were affected by the three dimension or the depth of the subject, it wouldn’t
be replicated by a digital graphical manipulation or a soft filter.
(effect of filter appears everywhere flat, same as a graphical effect —
otherwise it needs to give days of manipulation, pixel by pixel.)
So that, I’ve been working for this quite a while, hence such as the lens
in the photo appeared here long ago. (Lens was Canon FD 50mm F1.8)
A device I made was not so complicated electronic controller which takes
the signal of the shutter-open from the Flash-hot-shoe then to start the
AF motor in the lens, hence focus-shift (from the pre-focused point.)
= in the effect, the resulting image has both focused sharp image and
an off-focused, fuzzy halo around. The beauty of this technique is,
it is not rely on the lens’ aberration but the out of focus Bokeh, therefore
it can be done with any focal length. (as long as I got such modified lens)
(For another lens = “softness made by the vibration of the lens” = which
can be done with ANY = non modified lens, would become ideal.)
(Click and see enlarged photo — the sharp detail is still there. )
(The field report would be coming soon.) 🙂
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Sweetest Cherry Photo (so far)
Those photos were taken by a lens came from a Tokina Wide-converter and
its converging part of the lens has about 160 mm focal length, I call it Tele-soft.
In fact this lens can have a quite sharp image when an Iris was placed and the
spread of the light was centered — otherwise, its F4 equivalent of optics
produces beautiful soft Bokeh. As the lens was mounted on a bellows, it is
quite awkward to use still, it can easily make a good close-up image as well.
I hope you appreciated to see them.
(Honest ?) 🙂
PS : I didn’t use any filter or PS digital manipulation at all
—– only clopped and the brightness was tinkered on Picasa free program.
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Play with Lens (2) — Tamron 300mm F5.6
On the previous post, I’ve shown you many samples of the fuzzy, soft-focus images
created by the (mostly) single convex lens. And I had a belief that the single
convex lens which inherently possessing aberration would produce soft image.
Yet still, what I have tested was the lenses about 50mm focal length —– then I thought,
if I can get longer (= telephoto) soft-focus lens I could take nice photos from distance.
(Pentax had 80mm Soft-focus lens and Canon used to have 135mm Soft lens though
their effect was rather subtle.)
—– So, why not to see it with the front element of a telephoto lens.
What I tested was old (70s ?) tamron 300 mm F5.6 lens. (Photo above — bottom left was
the front element and the bottom right was the rear element.
(this rear lens seems to be a 2 element compound lens)
Photo above is the test shot of the Tamron 300 mm F5.6 (center photo was the part
enlargement of the photo left (full-size) and the right photo was by the Tamron 500 mm
F8 Mirror lens as a comparison) —– 500 mm lens showed much clear image though
this 300 mm lens was not in the original and in good condition. ( — Even worse,
those photos were taken through the dusty double glazed window) 🙂
The question was if this front element alone could show the soft image ?
Photo above, both left and the center were taken while rear element was removed
(= Front lens alone ! ) (This lens could focus down to 1m = 1/3 close-up.)
Well, with or without the rear element which supposed to eliminate
the aberration did not make much of difference. (on this occasion)
= My attempt to make fuzzy telephoto lens was failed so far. 🙂
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Fun from a broken Camera (2)
It was two weeks ago when I showed this photo of Canon G9.
Among the disassembled component, I found some of them are useable.
Such as the front lens alone (photo above left) could be used as a 50 mm F2.6 lens
and the second group of the optics (photo above center) is a very strong diverging
(concave) lens = could be used to widen the view of a pinhole camera.
In order to use a lens, it has to be mounted somewhere — to a lens mount or
to a filter ring etc. —– unless it got exact diameter or screw pitch, we need to fill
the gap and glue (epoxy) them.
I cut a beer can’s thin metal to the needed diameter and fix it with epoxy.
To do this kind of work, I bought M39 to M42 adapter ring and M42 to Nikon F
mount adapter. (Those item’s cost were only few pounds though, it took 2 weeks to
get them here, and as being as cheap Chinese products, noting is what we expected
= M42 screw was slightly larger and couldn’t fit to the Pentax original mount.
And the clow of Nikon Mount bayonet was too thin hence it was too loose.
For M39 to M42 ring, I “re-cut” the M42 screw (Photo left in the center).
(Photo Left : Nikon to Canon Adapter though,
part of its diameter was 0.5mm too large
= needed to file-down !)
(Such laborious cutting work with file is
nothing but a good Zen practice. 😀 )
Second group of concave lens aforesaid was
mounted on the center of M42 to Nikon
mount adapter. (photo above center)
And the Front lens of G9 was mounted
on to a Nikon mount adapter via M39-M42 ring. (photo right)
So, what was those hastle for ? —– The photo (right) here was taken by the
front lens of discarded Canon G9 Camera aforesaid.
(Left photo was also taken by a single lens came from another broken zoom lens).
( I’m preparing those lenses for the coming flower season ! )
If you like to see “sharp but ubiquitous” photo, please go to phone-camera.
The photos here, the images were full of aberration and halation still where
the focus lies, it’s sharp. (Look the enlarged photo) —– they might be
the images what we are actually seeing.
(like impressionist painter had found). 🙂
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Soft Effect by Camera Shake
While experimenting the effect of the camera shake, I got the idea to use the old
images on the PC screen as a subject. (Give a shake to a screenshot.)
Shaking photography become an industrial scale —– and it’s much easier to give
a different way of shake in the room = hand-held or a tap on the camera, mounted
on a flimsy shaky tripod. —> It created pretty nice soft blurr. (Photo above )
On the screen, this was the original image taken by Zeiss 85mm F1.4 Lens.
The photo above, the soft effect was made by a free program Picasa. = It’s obvious,
a mechanical shake gives much more interesting effects. — and a fun !
Though, the screenshot having an inherent trouble to show the grid of the screen.
(If you enlarge this and next image, the grid would be seen.)
If there wasn’t a trouble of the visible grid, this was a rather pretty image. Pity.
(When right amount of the shake was given, the soft effect dissolve the line of grid.
Too much shake spoil the image but too little leaves sharpness and the grid too.)
There is a possibility to use the Image Stabilizer for an opposite effect =
make an image blurred ! (Though, it needs to hack-in to the control program
otherwise the lens has to be modified !)
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